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On June 14 2013 13:00 andyrau wrote:
I think I might get either an MA-1 or a double rider from ToJ soon, but I can't decide which.
I'm pretty sure the MA-1 is a lot more versatile and I might just save up for grail CCP fencing jacket if I really do want leather outerwear. But on the other hand those band collar double riders are pretty sweet, so.. maybe I should just flip a coin, lol.
I just pulled the trigger on a bcdr and I'm wondering if I should add a MA-1 as well. But I can't get over the fact that it's a military repro in a really delicate fabric, that seems weird to me. Any thoughts?
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13015 Posts
On June 14 2013 13:08 KillahKonceptz wrote:
I'd go with the DR, and if you could find one, buy one of their older versions of the MA-1 used off someone on sufu or styleforum. The older TOJ MA-1s that were made out of nylon looked better IMO. Double Rider is just so badass.
You're talking about the discontinued double-sided one right?
after a bit of thought, I think I want a bomber from lad musician or the down-filled RO instead. I also really like the attachment and helmut lang versions, although they're not the typical puffy bombers.
but yea, my split on style and on brand isn't making this any easier. At least the northern hemisphere is giving me 4 or so months to think about it, lol.
For the leather, I'm pretty much set in stone for a grail ccp/julius/guidi fencing jacket at this point, so any other leather pieces I may pick up during this time is just going to pale in comparison. might as well wait and just skip the DR?
On June 15 2013 02:40 phosej wrote:Show nested quote +On June 14 2013 13:00 andyrau wrote:
I think I might get either an MA-1 or a double rider from ToJ soon, but I can't decide which.
I'm pretty sure the MA-1 is a lot more versatile and I might just save up for grail CCP fencing jacket if I really do want leather outerwear. But on the other hand those band collar double riders are pretty sweet, so.. maybe I should just flip a coin, lol. I just pulled the trigger on a bcdr and I'm wondering if I should add a MA-1 as well. But I can't get over the fact that it's a military repro in a really delicate fabric, that seems weird to me. Any thoughts?
well, let's be real here
nothing you ever get to wear commercially is military grade unless you buy at milsurplus, and nothing you will ever do in everyday life will ever require mil grade.
unless you actually do, in which case I have no idea why you're buying from ToJ in the first place.
either way, I think the fabric they now use is some sort of wool blend? it's pretty far removed from both the old goretex and leather ones they produced for a season or two, and even farther from the nylon of a traditional bomber.
I think ToJ tried to produce a version that's more in line with what the RO version looks like, because regardless of all the hype he gets, dick really pinned the silhouette in his iterations.
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well, let's be real here
nothing you ever get to wear commercially is military grade unless you buy at milsurplus, and nothing you will ever do in everyday life will ever require mil grade.
unless you actually do, in which case I have no idea why you're buying from ToJ in the first place.
either way, I think the fabric they now use is some sort of wool blend? it's pretty far removed from both the old goretex and leather ones they produced for a season or two, and even farther from the nylon of a traditional bomber.
I think ToJ tried to produce a version that's more in line with what the RO version looks like, because regardless of all the hype he gets, dick really pinned the silhouette in his iterations.
I see your point, I obviously don't need anything military grade, but what I meant was that it's quite a departure from the traditional fabric, whether it be for better or for worse is up for debate. As far as I know they are using 100% super 150s suiting wool for the ma-1.
I guess what I'm trying to work out here are the reasons for/against picking it up.
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Ok so layering. been exploring different styles recently because im confused as fuck, etc etc. i asked andy and most of what i was referring to was this kind where some shirts are stacked on top of each other:
+ Show Spoiler +
shamelessly stolen from SF btw, dont mind me. i like the whole bottom part being 2 things/colors and i dunno how i feel about the collar but its interesting.
however what i got from andy was more like this kind of thing (correct me if i'm wrong but i can't quite find any pictures of stuff i liked in s/s Ann D/RO
+ Show Spoiler +
i guess the first examples really is just "put a tshirt over a tshirt" but its interesting and i'd like some input on what shirts to buy for it b/c i dont wanna go off buying 10 million things and returning or whatever. at the same time, going into the second thing with different fabrics is really cool but i dont know if that fits into my aesthetic (as if i have one) and i dont wanna make the investment w/o knowing o_O.
i dunno man. i wanna buy up these ("ex") acne t's from ebay, maybe just 1 and pair with an everlane shirt? or something? i dont know. sorry im really unfocused.
also i need black jeans
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The main problem I have with this is that you basically need 2 different types/sizes of shirt and can't just buy the same shirt in 2 colors... :/
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13015 Posts
On June 15 2013 06:15 phosej wrote:Show nested quote +
well, let's be real here
nothing you ever get to wear commercially is military grade unless you buy at milsurplus, and nothing you will ever do in everyday life will ever require mil grade.
unless you actually do, in which case I have no idea why you're buying from ToJ in the first place.
either way, I think the fabric they now use is some sort of wool blend? it's pretty far removed from both the old goretex and leather ones they produced for a season or two, and even farther from the nylon of a traditional bomber.
I think ToJ tried to produce a version that's more in line with what the RO version looks like, because regardless of all the hype he gets, dick really pinned the silhouette in his iterations.
I see your point, I obviously don't need anything military grade, but what I meant was that it's quite a departure from the traditional fabric, whether it be for better or for worse is up for debate. As far as I know they are using 100% super 150s suiting wool for the ma-1. I guess what I'm trying to work out here are the reasons for/against picking it up.
well the sufu elitists say there's not many good quality MA-1s under $500, so that puts ToJ at 'subpar' quality.
I'm honestly not sure how many dashes of salt you're supposed to take that with, if any.
But yea, I got your point. I was just pointing out something obvious that a lot of people don't know.
For some reason, a lot of people think that because you're buying a military-inspired article it's supposed to have or meet the same specifications.
..?
yea.
On June 15 2013 08:12 Juliette wrote:Ok so layering. been exploring different styles recently because im confused as fuck, etc etc. i asked andy and most of what i was referring to was this kind where some shirts are stacked on top of each other: + Show Spoiler +shamelessly stolen from SF btw, dont mind me. i like the whole bottom part being 2 things/colors and i dunno how i feel about the collar but its interesting. however what i got from andy was more like this kind of thing (correct me if i'm wrong but i can't quite find any pictures of stuff i liked in s/s Ann D/RO + Show Spoiler +i guess the first examples really is just "put a tshirt over a tshirt" but its interesting and i'd like some input on what shirts to buy for it b/c i dont wanna go off buying 10 million things and returning or whatever. at the same time, going into the second thing with different fabrics is really cool but i dont know if that fits into my aesthetic (as if i have one) and i dont wanna make the investment w/o knowing o_O. i dunno man. i wanna buy up these ("ex") acne t's from ebay, maybe just 1 and pair with an everlane shirt? or something? i dont know. sorry im really unfocused. also i need black jeans
well layering can't really be taught, which is why I really like this type of stuff. there's no stupid little infographic you can make up and say "look this is how you dress." you really have to develop a silhouette that matches your body proportions, and then start building around that. viewing a lot of fit pictures also helps.
but there certainly are good and bad ways of layering. I think textures and draping (yea buzzword blahblahblah) play a big part in whether the outfit looks decent or not. It's also pretty hard to do more than 2 layers of short-sleeve shirts before it looks redundant.
the reasons why textures and draping are important is because it gives us direct contrast. when you juxtapose something like this + Show Spoiler [ro double layer shirt] + with a smooth, form-fitting, and lengthy tee, you get a nice effect. But the thing is, you have to wear the smooth one on the inside or the entire point of the gentle folds and sheer fabric on the dual layer is lost. + Show Spoiler +the sheer is also why you see a lot of RO shirts on secondhand markets have small holes in them - the fabric has to be made that thin for that type of contrast
Then there's always colors, although monochromatic outfits are nice because they really highlight how well the lights/shadows interlace with fabrics/textures. this is why minimalism/brutalism is difficult to pull off, because there aren't any bright loud colors or patterns to distract you; however, you can still have some variability as not everything has to be allbrackerrthang. IE + Show Spoiler [bbs s/s12 (i think?)] +. Obviously this is the s/s iteration of his show so he played around with some warmer colors, but I hope you see my point.
The hem also matters a lot - because you have two similar looking straight hems in your picture, the second one looks a bit better because his inner is longer and it's a round hem. You can also play around with the collars, hence asymmetric deep Us and tighter crew combinations.
uh I hope that helped.
You shouldn't take my words for gospel, either; I'm sure there are others with more experience that will drop better knowledge than I can.
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it helped. mostly just new to me so takes i can get about it is useful.
problem is that a lot of the shirts you're talking about - good textures, good draping, etc run more than i wanna spend on experimenting. i suppose im back to looking at fitpics (dude ive literally gone thru 200 pages of SF's wayrn in a week .-. ill go through sufu soon) lol.
but i do get and appreciate that the idea is to give some contrast, and i really like that.
question is, where can i get shirts with different (rounded!!) hems without shelling out more than, say, $50. or shirts that drape well over it for a similar price.
the only t shirt suppliers i know of are everlane/asos/acne/AA/sifr rn and i dont know which of those are gonna work with this.
I think the style im looking toward right now is kind of a minimalistic techy thing. you mentioned before how FKs work rly well with it. dis is my fav pic from SF atm and though i dont really feel for the hoodie the concept is really cool to me. obviously i dont want to look exactly like that b/c im not that dude but yeah. #confusion
+ Show Spoiler +
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oh lol that's the-arm. I think I've seen him mainly on sufu, but he just recently started posting on szg; he has good sense of his own proportions.
SF isn't going to help you much. also, if you get into fits like this you start straying out of the realm of fast fashion, so you're just going to have to be dedicated and jump on sales or something.
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I'll run through sufu/szg soonish.
Yeah, i don't really plan on getting into it right away. It'll be a while since i haveto decide what i like first. But it's a good start for me i think, to have found something i like.
I'm gonna look at different t's first and get some black jeans or something. Slow start lol. Thanks
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13015 Posts
good cheapish start for black trousers/jeans is probably oak, surface to air, april77, or acne.
I think starting from the ground up (shoes first) is better than going top down. your legs are kind of like the foundation for your silhouette, you can play around with the tops using a lot less effort than it would take playing with/switching out the bottoms.
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I was gonna say, what pants could I go with for this to start off with haha. I think I like this more than straight up ninja stuff like alex b/c i like colors.
what shoes should i work with? atm i'm just looking at nikes because I still really like them, but there has to be more variation. although, ill find more fits when i go through szg/sufu i suppose.
thanks ^^]
edit: lol when i read surface to air i thought hood by air LOL
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my april 77s arrived
my balls hang real low, apparently
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these uniqlo tees fit hella good
thx 4 ur size andy
feels good to have the best body type
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On June 15 2013 08:12 Juliette wrote:Ok so layering. been exploring different styles recently because im confused as fuck, etc etc. i asked andy and most of what i was referring to was this kind where some shirts are stacked on top of each other: + Show Spoiler +shamelessly stolen from SF btw, dont mind me. i like the whole bottom part being 2 things/colors and i dunno how i feel about the collar but its interesting. however what i got from andy was more like this kind of thing (correct me if i'm wrong but i can't quite find any pictures of stuff i liked in s/s Ann D/RO + Show Spoiler +i guess the first examples really is just "put a tshirt over a tshirt" but its interesting and i'd like some input on what shirts to buy for it b/c i dont wanna go off buying 10 million things and returning or whatever. at the same time, going into the second thing with different fabrics is really cool but i dont know if that fits into my aesthetic (as if i have one) and i dont wanna make the investment w/o knowing o_O. i dunno man. i wanna buy up these ("ex") acne t's from ebay, maybe just 1 and pair with an everlane shirt? or something? i dont know. sorry im really unfocused. also i need black jeans
man i really love layering with shirts. i have the opposite version of the first pic you linked, and it's just one piece by robert geller. + Show Spoiler +. sufu didnt like it though
employ a lot of different cuts, with curved seams, scalloped, etc and different fabrics and it'll look pretty cool i think.
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oh lol i just saw a fit of yours on sufu a min ago haha. I def like your version of that more. color wise it looks better.
but i am looking round :D
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I think my balls are too big for these april 77s
thank god my sister is a size 27 in men's sizing
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So I recently went to buy my first pair of Allan Edmonds shoes. I had decided that I would pay $300 to $400 and take really good care of them and see if they really do last 10+ years. HOWEVER I've been having a hard time with the fit. I've been to 3 stores but none seemed to carry anything that fit quite right. I was told that my feet are a bit narrow and that AEs fit wide. They are available in narrower versions but no store I've been to so far carries the right size. I was referred to yet another shoe store which I'll check out today.
The guy at Harry Rosen yesterday convinced me to try on even more expensive shoes. I tried on a pair of beautiful brown Canali oxfords. List price $595. They fit very nicely indeed. Then he convinced me to try on these hand-made Prada brogued oxfords. List price $990, marked down to $690. What a deal! They felt amazing. They were kind of like a darker, almost reddish brown - not the style I was looking for anyway. And certainly not the price I had in mind.
So I'll continue my search. The Harry Rosen guy said that if I really want AEs the best way to get a good fit would be to go to an actual AE store. There are none in Calgary but maybe next time I'm in the States.
TL;DR: Having a hard time getting shoes for $300 to $400
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