|
Osaka26954 Posts
For five years I have lived in Japan, and for those five years I have seen a pathetically small amount of my adopted country. Between work, school, family, and trips abroad, I have neglected travelling internally. To remedy this I purchased a touring bicycle this summer and began commuting to work on it. The goal was to take my bicycle and see various parts of Japan. Last weekend I took my first trip, the beginning of what I hope will be an annual (or even more!) event.
Looking for inspiration, I was lucky to find the website KanCycling, a play on words as the Osaka area of Japan is called KANsai. The founder of the website has biked extensively through Japan and has laid out paths to follow. For my first trip I wanted something overnight and not too taxing. The Shimanami Kaido trip looked perfect. Quiet, dedicated cycling paths, and chicken on a stick waiting at the end.
The Shimanami Kaido was a public works project of bridges and roads that was built in the 90's to connect the main islands of Honshu and Shikoku. Spanning the Geiyo Islands and the Seto Inland Sea, the bridges opened up a sleepy backwater of Japan and created the opportunity for amazing views. As part of the project a cycling path was created, allowing people to literally cycle across the sea.
The following is my picture diary of the trip. If you have any questions, feel free to ask.
I was up early, and loaded up my bike. I managed to get away with two bike bags, which meant I could ride without anything on my back.
I was at the station early to catch the first train into Osaka. Joining me would be the legion of drunks that missed the last train the night before.
Thanks to my early start and the speed of the bullet train, I was in Onomichi by 9am. I reassembled my bicycle and a nice guy decked out in Tour de France apparel offered to snap a picture. I didn't even realize there was a castle behind me until I saw this photo.
The first step of the trip was a five minute ferry ride across to the first island.
It wasn't so busy... it was like a personal water taxi.
It also wasn't expensive. I got a kick out of the extra 10 yen (ten cents) for my bicycle.
The route itself consists of sleepy island roads, dedicated bicycle paths, and six separate bridges. A few kilometers in I rounded a corner and saw the first bridge.
Cycling up from the road below you can see the unique nature of this one, as the cyclists and pedestrians traverse below the car deck.
The lack of a view through the wire is made up by the sensation of the tunnel.
Cycling along the second island, I was reminded just how rural these islands were before the expressway was built. Here you can see a quiet hamlet.
After another ten kilometers or so I came up to the second bridge.
I came level with the second bridge and snapped a photo off to my co-worker (who was working) along with a "wish you were here" sentiment. He was not amused.
Looking out at the sea from the bridge, I was struck by how similar it looked to the Gulf Islands between Vancouver and Victoria. A pang of homesickness followed, and was quickly squelched by more riding.
The third bridge was much more impressive. The Tatara bridge is the second largest cabled bridge in the world.
Looking down I could see people fishing for their livelihood.
Looking up I could see the tower. The sky shows you how lucky I got with the weather.
The fourth bridge was a modest affair.
At each bridge there was a toll box. It is completely on your honour, and I saw many not-so-honourable travelers. Yours truly paid every one. (This one was 50 yen)
Here is a better look at the bicycle paths that take you up from the road to the bridges. There are worse things in life than cycling through bamboo forests and orange groves.
The fifth bridge, that tops a gorgeous beach. Next time I will go swimming.
Finally, I approached the final bridge for a stunning climax. The Kurushima Kaikyo Bridge, the longest suspension bridge structure in the world.
I tried to capture the whole bridge in one shot, but it was not possible. It is more than four kilometers long.
It was surreal to cross over the top of islands.
More flashes of Canada. Coming from the concrete world of Osaka, it was soothing to the soul to realize these views exist in Japan.
Ships of all sizes ply the waters below.
Looking back to where I started, and I was only 1/5th of the way across.
I finished the bridge and cruised the last few kilometers towards Imabari, a city famous for yakitori. The best food in the world.
The next day I listened to my body and chose to take a ferry part way back. This would also allow me to avoid rush hour in Osaka with my bicycle. I took the purple outside route which chopped 2/3rd of the distance off.
Little ferries like this visit a dozen spots on their way between the islands. The red van beside it is the postal service.
Much of Japan still reaps the sea for a living.
After a modest 30 kilometers back to the original ferry, my little friend came to pick me up.
I felt great, having completed my first solo trip. It wasn't rigorous by any stretch of the imagination, but it did represent my fulfillment of a goal (and hopefully a long term pursuit).
I packed up my bike at the station and settled in for the journey home, enjoying a cold beer on the bullet train as my reward.
So that is it. It was the perfect day and the perfect ride. I am already planning my next trip. I think I will continue to follow in the footsteps of the KanCycling author until I become more comfortable with my bike and the rigors of touring.
If anyone likes to bicycle tour, I would love to hear from you, and if anyone wants to join me on this trip next year, just let me know
Cheers, Mani
edit: bonus pics + Show Spoiler +On October 22 2010 15:41 FoieGras wrote: Nice pics. I love travel blogs and I thought the picture diary was great. There's quite a few bridges around and not much traffic huh. 10c for a bike on the ferry? How much was it for a motorcycle? Wish you took some pics of the food you had there though. You mentioned the best yakitori in the world and I would've loved to see it. Tsukune and torikawa + beer right now sounds so damn good... Looks like so much fun! Can't wait to see more 5/5 Unfortunately I only have this blurry phone pic of my yakitori as I was in an intense grilled chicken frenzy. Imabari yakitori is cooked on a skillet rather than over a grill. I don't think it is better, but they are famous for it. To the left is onion/chicken, the middle is green peppers stuffed with ground chicken, and the right right is seseri (neck). The white stuff is just cabbage.To make up for it, here is a picture of the complementary dish you get at the beginning of the meal when you go to a pub. The heads were particularly juicy when they popped between my teeth. Not really my cup of fish tea.Finally here is a picture of Imabari castle that I found on my phone. I hustled out of my hotel room just before sunset in order to snap a shot of it.
|
wow this was very thorough
loved the pictures, thanks
|
once again sir, you have my 5/5.
A bike was the very first thing I bought when I arrived to stockholm, and I did a 20 to 30 km trip at least once a week. I learned and knew so much cool stuff and places, and never got lost again anywhere in the city. You get so lazy with directions when you are born next to huge mountains like the Andes, you can always tell where you are just by looking around here in Chile.
A bike is the way to go. Some friends I have do an annual bike tour for about 3 weeks in the south of Chile, every summer, I was thinking of joining them this year, but seems that my swedish papers will be ready before February, so I dont know if I will be here by that time.
If I ever go to Japan, I would love to bike tour around.
|
Wow...it looked like it was tons of fun. Great pictures. I definitely want to see that 4km suspension bridge someday.
Thanks for posting!
|
Wow. I wished my country had views like that! Lovely pictures!
|
Philadelphia, PA10406 Posts
Biking is the best way to get anywhere. That sounds absolutely awesome. What a great website, what a great resource, and what a great thing to do!
|
Wow, looks awesome mani! I plan on doing the shikoku pilgrimage by bicycle sometime, hopefully within the next few years
|
Nice pics. You look to good have you lost weight?
|
wow fantastic blog! I love travel blogs with pictures so so much. 50/5
I would love to travel one day but I owe more debt to the Ontario government than the US does to China, so for now I will look out my window at the big garbage dumpster and cry
|
Japan is awesome! Thanks for the pictures mani!
|
Holy shit some of those pictures are gorgeous O_O
Now I want to go do a bit of exploring lol. When I get the chance to go to Japan you better take me with you Mani ;/
|
Nice pics Japan is such a pretty country, correct me if I'm wrong but I think they have the highest percent of old growth forest of any industrialized country.
|
Katowice25012 Posts
This is really cool, do it again!
|
Really nice pictures. 5/5
|
|
Nice pics. I love travel blogs and I thought the picture diary was great. There's quite a few bridges around and not much traffic huh. 10c for a bike on the ferry? How much was it for a motorcycle? Wish you took some pics of the food you had there though. You mentioned the best yakitori in the world and I would've loved to see it. Tsukune and torikawa + beer right now sounds so damn good... Looks like so much fun! Can't wait to see more 5/5
|
wow that bridge is amazing
|
Those were some really awesome pictures I'm not used to seeing bridges that big without a massive city built around then. It feels different somehow, in a mellow countryside kind of way. Looking forward to your next shared trip ^^
|
konadora
Singapore66060 Posts
wow the bridges, love the photos!!
instant 5/5 mani blog
|
wow that is awesome. curious question..how is the sun like? Do u have to apply lots of sunblock when you go on this bike tour?
|
Man that looks awesome, sweet views.
Thanks for all the pictures, great to see a different country. Definitely 5/5
|
Osaka26954 Posts
On October 22 2010 16:49 mel_ee wrote: wow that is awesome. curious question..how is the sun like? Do u have to apply lots of sunblock when you go on this bike tour?
It is the middle of October, so I wasn't as worried about it as I should have been. The temperature was about 23-25, but I still ended up with a red face. Compared to the summer though, this was not uncomfortable at all.
|
ah fuck me i wanna go live there
would be a trauma for my dog tho
|
I am not really a fan of travelling but now I might just change my mind.
Really nice pictures you have there.
|
|
Looks like a fantastic trip, I'd love to do something like this but I just can't muster up the motivation.
Lovely pics though!
|
|
Osaka26954 Posts
On October 22 2010 15:41 FoieGras wrote: Nice pics. I love travel blogs and I thought the picture diary was great. There's quite a few bridges around and not much traffic huh. 10c for a bike on the ferry? How much was it for a motorcycle? Wish you took some pics of the food you had there though. You mentioned the best yakitori in the world and I would've loved to see it. Tsukune and torikawa + beer right now sounds so damn good... Looks like so much fun! Can't wait to see more 5/5
Unfortunately I only have this blurry phone pic of my yakitori as I was in an intense grilled chicken frenzy. Imabari yakitori is cooked on a skillet rather than over a grill. I don't think it is better, but they are famous for it.
To the left is onion/chicken, the middle is green peppers stuffed with ground chicken, and the right right is seseri (neck). The white stuff is just cabbage.
To make up for it, here is a picture of the complementary dish you get at the beginning of the meal when you go to a pub. The heads were particularly juicy when they popped between my teeth.
Not really my cup of fish tea.
Finally here is a picture of Imabari castle that I found on my phone. I hustled out of my hotel room just before sunset in order to snap a shot of it.
|
When I was stationed in Japan three years ago me and a few buddies of mine did something similar, we rode from yokosuka to the top of japan and back. we took a month of leave to do it but it was an experience I'll never forget. I approve of you as a fellow biker, sir.
|
Amazing pictures and impressive bridges, love the idea of exploring the country "per pedale". and the food looks delicious! :>
|
very nice pictures, I have no idea why but I never really imagined Japan like that before, I guess its because most of the stuff I see on the internet are cities and such, when I think of Japan I think of big cities filled with all kinds of technological marvels, but those landscapes and beaches really look wonderful and they reminded me that every country has its beauties worth exploring, small hidden villages where life just flows slower and more relaxed.
Keep on trucking (cycling ) proud terran soldier !
|
On October 22 2010 17:17 Manifesto7 wrote:Show nested quote +On October 22 2010 16:49 mel_ee wrote: wow that is awesome. curious question..how is the sun like? Do u have to apply lots of sunblock when you go on this bike tour? It is the middle of October, so I wasn't as worried about it as I should have been. The temperature was about 23-25, but I still ended up with a red face. Compared to the summer though, this was not uncomfortable at all.
So hot -_-
Beautiful pictures, thanks :D
|
Well presented. Can tell you miss home a bit but looks like you're enjoying life in Japan.
Glad to hear
|
Osaka26954 Posts
On October 22 2010 19:06 Kaal wrote: When I was stationed in Japan three years ago me and a few buddies of mine did something similar, we rode from yokosuka to the top of japan and back. we took a month of leave to do it but it was an experience I'll never forget. I approve of you as a fellow biker, sir.
I would love to read/see this story. Let me know if you have the chance.
|
I have a question, for you mani, not really on topic but I'll give it a go anyway.
What kind of sushi would you recommend for someone who really dislikes the "fishy" taste? I know it sounds weird but I really hate that kind of taste, like for example would crab sushi be less fish tasting then say salmon? I never tried it before but my gf is asian and I want to take her out for sushi, she loves it but I dont want to be stuck with what to get.
edit: my example of crab being less fish tasting the salmon is retarded but I don't have any others, so don;t flame me.
|
absolutely stunning pictures Mani! after years of telling myself I really don't want to go to Japan I suddenly got the urge back.
would you recommend the Osaka area for tourism? I'm the kind of tourist who prefers to see views like that and have a larger city close by but at the same time I don't want to live in the city itself.
|
Oh man, those pictures are amazing. I really envy you, I've always wanted to do something like this. Easy 5/5.
|
I feel motivated to study now. Thank you.
|
Dang, that's really beautiful. Love them!
|
Those are some impressive bridges, I need to plan a vacation up there sometime.
|
Fantastic! Great point about the similarity to the Gulf Islands. I can imagine how it must have felt like a flash of home.
|
This looked amazing. My wife wants me to move back to Japan with her, and I really can't wait!
|
looks like such a great time, I really need to go to Osaka TT..
also I forget, but are you teaching in Japan? If not what field of work do you do?
|
Osaka26954 Posts
On October 23 2010 20:19 TadH wrote: I have a question, for you mani, not really on topic but I'll give it a go anyway.
What kind of sushi would you recommend for someone who really dislikes the "fishy" taste? I know it sounds weird but I really hate that kind of taste, like for example would crab sushi be less fish tasting then say salmon? I never tried it before but my gf is asian and I want to take her out for sushi, she loves it but I dont want to be stuck with what to get.
edit: my example of crab being less fish tasting the salmon is retarded but I don't have any others, so don;t flame me.
Well, good sushi shouldn't really have the strong fishy taste or smell. But yes, crab and shrimp/prawn might be more up your alley. Your choices are going to be limited if you go to an authentic place, but if you are going to a westernized sushi place there should be lots of "cooked" sushi.
|
Osaka26954 Posts
On October 24 2010 06:49 Terrakin wrote: looks like such a great time, I really need to go to Osaka TT..
also I forget, but are you teaching in Japan? If not what field of work do you do?
Yep, I'm teaching. Still at my high school.
|
Beautiful pictures, those islands look so peaceful. How much does it cost for the hotel that you stayed during this trip?
|
Great pictures, thanks for sharing them. If you do something like this again please share the story/pictures. Doing something similar to this is something I would like to do at some point. 5/5
|
that bridge is awesome!
nice pics!
|
United States4126 Posts
This blog makes me wish I lived in an area surrounded by nature. The scenery while cycling around New York is just more and more buildings x_x
|
Osaka26954 Posts
On October 27 2010 10:27 lasto wrote: Beautiful pictures, those islands look so peaceful. How much does it cost for the hotel that you stayed during this trip?
There are business hotels that you can get for 3000-4000 yen (30 dollars or so) which are perfectly functional for staying overnight. The nicest hotel in town costs about 11,000 (up to floor 8) and 13,240 yen (floor 20 with an amazing view). So your options vary. Let's just say I chose to spoil myself on this trip.
On October 27 2010 14:26 Kinky wrote: This blog makes me wish I lived in an area surrounded by nature. The scenery while cycling around New York is just more and more buildings x_x
Me too man. That is why I enjoyed the trip so much. I could cycle without stopping for lights every 200 meters and worrying about highway traffic. It took an effort to get outside Osaka, but it was well worth it.
|
fantastic pics, i love the eerie beauty of the bridge going over little green islands
|
Thanks for sharing.
It's really eery for someone like me to see how similar the landscape and buildings are to Korea. Really the signs are the only thing that let me know its Japan.
And your awesomeness ofc
|
Breathtaking view from the bridge, must be exhilarating biking through it!
|
Wow.
I'm bumping this because I missed it and it's likely others who did so would like to see its contents.
I thought you were part of some big group or touring club, but this was a small-scale endeavor?
It was lovely to see the pictures. I've heard about this route traversing miles and miles of sea so close to here, but I have never gone far beyond the bounds of the city. To actually see these fantastical-sounding bridges is pretty stunning. You're lucky we had such a mild autumn in large part.
We'll have to do some cycling next year, at least if that's still your seeing Japan goal. I am starting to feel as though I have an obligation to myself to explore my surroundings.
Pleasant read. All the best.
|
Man awesome castle pic. Love Japanese castles. Have to admit though, when I first saw PICS and then a Japanese name... I was hoping it was a Dr.H type blog T_T. Still good though :D
|
Thanks for bumping this. I can't believe I missed this ...! Gorgeous photo blog. =]
|
United States22883 Posts
Those pictures are absolutely gorgeous.
Let's be honest though. That was a yakitori trip that involved some biking along the way.
|
Calgary25938 Posts
Nice. You look like you lost weight.
|
Wow, that is an awesome route! Nice pics, as well.
|
Wow. This really makes me wish I could ride a bike.
Like, more than usual.
|
Osaka26954 Posts
On December 18 2010 11:55 Jibba wrote: Those pictures are absolutely gorgeous.
Let's be honest though. That was a yakitori trip that involved some biking along the way.
Haha that is ridiculously true.
|
Wow, glad this was bumped because it's fairly awesome. Almost reignited my plans to visit there one day. Almost.
|
Nice, a Kona bike - like a little piece of home in your new location.
|
|
|
|