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well ive tried surfing twice, i figured it would be easy since ive been skateboarding for 10+ years. Most people start learning on a long board, and ive heard thats easy but I tried it on a short board and I must say its very difficult and dangerous.
and yes u definately do not want to surf big waves, u can very easily drown. But i doubt you will be able to get to the big waves because paddling out to where they are is not easy and really scary for a begginer.
I would suggest you find a friend who surfs just so he can show you how its done and watch you and tell you what you are doing wrong. You will definately learn much faster that way. Also, you should stay close to the beach and learn on the white waters, this is where the big waves have already broken so when they break again closer to the shore they are much smaller. Of course it will get boring and you will find it really hard to resist getting out there where the real waves are.
definately have a buddy with you if you surf big waves, that shit can kill you no joke.
So basically this is what you do:
1)Paddle out to the area just before the waves tend to break.
2)Watch and wait for the right wave
3)Quickly paddle to catch it
4)From prone paddle position quickly go to a standing position.
5)Balance & surf
For training your body, i would suggest pushups and arm excercises. Lie prone on your stomach with your chin up and just practice pushing yourself up into a surfing position. I suppose if you have not done board sports before you will not know if you are goofy or regular, so figure out what your stance is, are you naturally comfortable with your right or left foot infront? Then just keep doing that, prone to your surfing stance 100x.
Some tips i can give are:
1)Watch the waves carefully and see which ones people catch just to get an idea of the timing and type of wave you should attempt to surf. You will spend a lot of time just waiting for the right wave and if u try to catch the wrong one, you will be bummed and it always feels like the next few waves after that are PERFECT, but you missed them haha.
2)you definately need a lot of practice just paddling so you are fast enough to catch the waves. Also It can be tiring so train ur arms up!
3)Grip strength is also important, i found it quite difficult to grip the sides of my board as its pretty slippery. This is not only for prone to standing position, you will also need some amount of grip to wrestle the board into the right positon when you go from the sitting (waiting for wave) to prone position (paddling) and if ur grip slips off the side, you will end up headbutting your board. ouch.
4)Keep your chin up or you might smash it on the board.
5)If you are going under, take a deep breath!
6)Do not attempt to go over big waves that are about to crash into you. learn to duck dive under them or you will get fucked up lol.
7)Get some really good sunscreen!
8)I suggest wearing a rash gaurd to save your body from the sun and also your stomach and nipples from abrasion from the board.
9)When you wipe-out your board can hit you and the fins can cut you. Really scary, when in a sticky situation try to get the fuck away from it, try to get it infront of you (beach side) cos theres nothing scarier than a rampaging surfboard smacking you in the head from behind.
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EPT
