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Computer Build, Upgrade & Buying Resource Thread - Page 580

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When using this resource, please read the opening post. The Tech Support forum regulars have helped create countless of desktop systems without any compensation. The least you can do is provide all of the information required for them to help you properly.
micronesia
Profile Blog Joined July 2006
United States24808 Posts
Last Edited: 2016-01-15 23:22:51
January 15 2016 21:25 GMT
#11581
I find it hard to tell what item that list is referring to at times... would this be tier 2? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438018

edit: or alternately please just point me to one on newegg :p

edit2: I think this is more moderate: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817171094
ModeratorThere are animal crackers for people and there are people crackers for animals.
bluegarfield
Profile Joined December 2010
Singapore1128 Posts
January 16 2016 08:50 GMT
#11582
may be this EVGA 220-G2-0650-Y1 or this Cooler Master V650
ELqQQT_T
icystorage
Profile Blog Joined November 2008
Jollibee19350 Posts
Last Edited: 2016-01-16 12:36:04
January 16 2016 12:35 GMT
#11583
just a little update.

I bit the bullet and got myself ASUS GTX 960 Strix (it had a nice installment plan). Now with 8GB more ram (12 all in all), PC feels good. When I got home, I realized I had a generic PSU so I bought a 520W Seasonic PSU.

I learned A LOT researching, replacing and adding components.

Thank you!!
LiquidDota StaffAre you ready for a Miracle-? We are! The International 2017 Champions!
icystorage
Profile Blog Joined November 2008
Jollibee19350 Posts
January 16 2016 14:50 GMT
#11584
is this bad? should i remove the 4gb one?

[image loading]
LiquidDota StaffAre you ready for a Miracle-? We are! The International 2017 Champions!
Shield
Profile Blog Joined August 2009
Bulgaria4824 Posts
January 16 2016 16:17 GMT
#11585
This is about recent Skylake news... P95 = Prime95. :D

[image loading]
Cyro
Profile Blog Joined June 2011
United Kingdom20345 Posts
Last Edited: 2016-01-16 16:26:39
January 16 2016 16:26 GMT
#11586
On January 16 2016 23:50 icystorage wrote:
is this bad? should i remove the 4gb one?

[image loading]


I don't see anything wrong there, you can see the memory clock speeds and timings actually in use from the "memory" tab. That also says if you're using single channel, dual channel etc. With that config it should be dual channel for the first 8GB of RAM but i'm not sure what cpu-z would say
"oh my god my overclock... I got a single WHEA error on the 23rd hour, 9 minutes" -Belial88
icystorage
Profile Blog Joined November 2008
Jollibee19350 Posts
January 16 2016 23:02 GMT
#11587
it said single and from the system information it says i have 12gb ram (7.96 usable). that's why i was concerned if the 4gb was being used.
LiquidDota StaffAre you ready for a Miracle-? We are! The International 2017 Champions!
Cyro
Profile Blog Joined June 2011
United Kingdom20345 Posts
January 17 2016 17:52 GMT
#11588
Doesn't sound like it is but i'm not sure why
"oh my god my overclock... I got a single WHEA error on the 23rd hour, 9 minutes" -Belial88
micronesia
Profile Blog Joined July 2006
United States24808 Posts
Last Edited: 2016-01-18 03:37:55
January 18 2016 03:37 GMT
#11589
My new case comes with a bunch of bays for hard drives (obviously) but doesn't have any that are SSD sized. How do you normally mount SSD sized hard drives? My older computer had smaller bays for them.
ModeratorThere are animal crackers for people and there are people crackers for animals.
Cyro
Profile Blog Joined June 2011
United Kingdom20345 Posts
January 18 2016 03:58 GMT
#11590
You can get 3.5" to 2.5" bay adapters but they're not neccesary at all, you can leave an SSD hanging or duct-tape it somewhere
"oh my god my overclock... I got a single WHEA error on the 23rd hour, 9 minutes" -Belial88
Sylvex
Profile Joined January 2009
United States127 Posts
Last Edited: 2016-01-18 09:36:15
January 18 2016 09:30 GMT
#11591
So my friend is looking to have me build him a PC that will "last a long time" and "be able to play games well for a long time." This is what I came up with but I am not sure on all the pieces, mostly the motherboard, RAM, and video card. Looking for some recommendations or/and confirmation on this before we go to purchase. Hes to looking to spend up to $2500, but I've never done a build this expensive before. He has nothing already, been mostly a console gamer and recently someone broke into his apartment and stole everything (yay super helpful police who will do next to nothing to recover 10k+ of stolen stuff). Well, he has a large TV that hes picked up since then that I figure we can use as an additional monitor.

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/xVWdK8

Thanks.
bluegarfield
Profile Joined December 2010
Singapore1128 Posts
Last Edited: 2016-01-18 16:26:44
January 18 2016 11:50 GMT
#11592
On January 18 2016 12:37 micronesia wrote:
My new case comes with a bunch of bays for hard drives (obviously) but doesn't have any that are SSD sized. How do you normally mount SSD sized hard drives? My older computer had smaller bays for them.

if it's still the nzxt case you selected, the big 3.5" bay should have mounting screw holes for 2.5" ssd. just alight them and screw it in. or as Cyro suggested, duct tape

On January 18 2016 18:30 Sylvex wrote:
So my friend is looking to have me build him a PC that will "last a long time" and "be able to play games well for a long time." This is what I came up with but I am not sure on all the pieces, mostly the motherboard, RAM, and video card. Looking for some recommendations or/and confirmation on this before we go to purchase. Hes to looking to spend up to $2500, but I've never done a build this expensive before. He has nothing already, been mostly a console gamer and recently someone broke into his apartment and stole everything (yay super helpful police who will do next to nothing to recover 10k+ of stolen stuff). Well, he has a large TV that hes picked up since then that I figure we can use as an additional monitor.

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/xVWdK8

Thanks.

$2500 can pretty much buy anything you want. Anyway, iirc the Seagate Barracuda 3TB has quite higher failure rate compared to other 3TB drives, forgot the source and too lazy to find, but may as well just get WD blue or sth
ELqQQT_T
Cyro
Profile Blog Joined June 2011
United Kingdom20345 Posts
Last Edited: 2016-01-18 19:15:29
January 18 2016 18:43 GMT
#11593
On January 18 2016 18:30 Sylvex wrote:
So my friend is looking to have me build him a PC that will "last a long time" and "be able to play games well for a long time." This is what I came up with but I am not sure on all the pieces, mostly the motherboard, RAM, and video card. Looking for some recommendations or/and confirmation on this before we go to purchase. Hes to looking to spend up to $2500, but I've never done a build this expensive before. He has nothing already, been mostly a console gamer and recently someone broke into his apartment and stole everything (yay super helpful police who will do next to nothing to recover 10k+ of stolen stuff). Well, he has a large TV that hes picked up since then that I figure we can use as an additional monitor.

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/xVWdK8

Thanks.


That's a pretty good start but be aware that it's better to spend a smaller sum of money and run infrequent upgrades rather than keep the same setup for 6 years. For example we're likely to have way faster graphics cards (like 1.5x - 2x as fast) by around the middle of this year, so a $630 GPU investment now is questionable. Something like a ~$300 970/390 is notably better price/performance vs a $630 980ti and you can sell it, take a much smaller loss and replace it with next gen high end.

For lowering cost you could go with a 6600k, more midrange tier air cooling (which is more than sufficient unless your house is going to be australia temperatures often) and a cheaper mobo without losing much that you would care about. That's a $250 saving.

There are plenty of PSU's of good quality that would cost less than $114 and power that kind of system with a high end GPU, just looking over pcpartpicker list there's a $30 MIR on the "Rosewill VALENS-500M" to make it $40. That's a 500w 80+gold rated semi modular PSU but i didn't look at reviews for other quality concerns.

$47 is super expensive for a CD drive and you can spend a lot less if you don't want to read and write blu-rays

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($254.88 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG H5 Ultimate 76.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($46.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus Z170-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($153.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($159.75 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($74.70 @ SuperBiiz)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB Superclocked+ ACX 2.0+ Video Card ($629.99 @ NCIX US)
Case: Antec Nine Hundred ATX Mid Tower Case ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Rosewill 500W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($39.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: LG WH14NS40 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer ($46.39 @ OutletPC)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM (64-bit) ($130.29 @ B&H)
Monitor: BenQ XL2411Z 144Hz 24.0" Monitor ($269.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $1966.94
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-01-18 13:50 EST-0500

Also note the importance of a good mouse, keyboard, mousepad (i use a qck+ which is 45x40cm and like $10-15) and desk/chair if you're using them. For a desk i think a big flag open area at a good height is #1 priority to have room to play mouse+keyboard properly.
"oh my god my overclock... I got a single WHEA error on the 23rd hour, 9 minutes" -Belial88
Sylvex
Profile Joined January 2009
United States127 Posts
January 18 2016 19:33 GMT
#11594
On January 18 2016 20:50 bluegarfield wrote:
$2500 can pretty much buy anything you want. Anyway, iirc the Seagate Barracuda 3TB has quite higher failure rate compared to other 3TB drives, forgot the source and too lazy to find, but may as well just get WD blue or sth


Hmm, alright thanks I'll look into this.

On January 19 2016 03:43 Cyro wrote:
That's a pretty good start but be aware that it's better to spend a smaller sum of money and run infrequent upgrades rather than keep the same setup for 6 years. For example we're likely to have way faster graphics cards (like 1.5x - 2x as fast) by around the middle of this year, so a $630 GPU investment now is questionable. Something like a ~$300 970/390 is notably better price/performance vs a $630 980ti and you can sell it, take a much smaller loss and replace it with next gen high end.

For lowering cost you could go with a 6600k, more midrange tier air cooling and a cheaper mobo without losing much that you would care about. That's a $250 saving.

There are plenty of PSU's of good quality that would cost less than $114 and power that kind of system with a high end GPU, just looking over pcpartpicker list there's a $30 MIR on the "Rosewill VALENS-500M" to make it $40. That's a 500w 80+gold rated semi modular PSU but i didn't look at reviews for other quality concerns.

$47 is super expensive for a CD drive and you can spend a lot less if you don't want to read and write blu-rays

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($254.88 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG H5 Ultimate 76.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($46.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus Z170-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($153.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($159.75 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($74.70 @ SuperBiiz)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB Superclocked+ ACX 2.0+ Video Card ($629.99 @ NCIX US)
Case: Antec Nine Hundred ATX Mid Tower Case ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Rosewill 500W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($39.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: LG WH14NS40 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer ($46.39 @ OutletPC)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM (64-bit) ($130.29 @ B&H)
Monitor: BenQ XL2411Z 144Hz 24.0" Monitor ($269.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $1966.94
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-01-18 13:50 EST-0500


This is about what I was thinking for him, but he kept telling me "eh, let's go for the better one." I had to talk him down from the Deluxe mobo thats like $350. I don't know if I'll be able to talk him down to the i5 (I don't think he'll really need the i7), but I'll try. For the PSU, I chose a corsair because I'm very happy with the ones I've used and I'm always worried about getting a bad PSU, but if you recommend rosewill I can look at those too. I went for a higher wattage in case he decides to throw more money at it and grab another graphics card or whatever x.x.

The graphics card information is a good point, I didn't realize the Pascal cards were coming so soon. Maybe I can talk him down to a 970 there and if he really wants to he can throw money at one of the newer ones later this year.

I always struggle to choose a motherboard because there's so many very similar models that it's hard to tell what the feature differences between them are. Aside from the obvious points like ports and slots I often struggle to tell which board is the right one for what I'm looking for, any advice on what specifically to look for in them?

Thanks.
Cyro
Profile Blog Joined June 2011
United Kingdom20345 Posts
Last Edited: 2016-01-18 20:49:38
January 18 2016 19:35 GMT
#11595
Choosing a board is pretty difficult but the tier-above-bottom ones usually have everything that you need. Gotta check the ports, amount of fan headers, a few CPU overclock related things (the biggest one for current gen is some boards lacking proper LLC, which can mean getting 100mhz worse CPU overclocks), maybe some features like dual bios if you care about them.

This is about what I was thinking for him, but he kept telling me "eh, let's go for the better one." I had to talk him down from the Deluxe mobo thats like $350


That's a common mindset in people unfamiliar with building, somebody who wants to spend $3k once will get beaten overall by someone who takes a leaner build with the same core and then uses the saved $$ to iterate upon it with stronger hardware as it's released - GPU is a great example for that, as they're very easy to swap out and advancing pretty fast
"oh my god my overclock... I got a single WHEA error on the 23rd hour, 9 minutes" -Belial88
Golgotha
Profile Blog Joined January 2011
Korea (South)8418 Posts
Last Edited: 2016-01-21 11:34:53
January 21 2016 11:31 GMT
#11596
Can someone please help me? I have a heating problem with my build. My little ITX build is running hot when I play Witcher 3 (80c). I am thinking of getting a CPU cooler. But I am not sure what to get. Either a Corsair H80iGT for water cooling or a Noctua NH-L9i. I've heard great things about Noctua but also about water cooling. Not sure which is better. Can I get some input? Thank you.


CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($341.98 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: ASRock H97M-ITX/AC Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard ($98.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($37.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB Superclocked ACX 2.0 Video Card ($348.98 @ Newegg)
Case: Cooler Master Elite 130 Mini ITX Tower Case ($56.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply ($39.99 @ Newegg)

Firkraag8
Profile Joined August 2010
Sweden1006 Posts
Last Edited: 2016-01-21 17:39:04
January 21 2016 17:38 GMT
#11597
@Golgotha:
Noctua is great, but not all their coolers are meant for hot CPU's like yours. I myself got a NH-D9L and had to undervolt my CPU in order for it to not get too hot on stock settings. You might want to go for the NH-D14 or NH-U14S. They're all really easy to install, pretty much the best mounting brackets around.
Too weird to live, too rare to die.
Cyro
Profile Blog Joined June 2011
United Kingdom20345 Posts
January 21 2016 18:12 GMT
#11598
little ITX build


That's the issue

I've heard great things about Noctua but also about water cooling


What kind of "water cooling"? The h80i as a single-fan width CLC doesn't have amazing performance (around that of a midrange air cooler) and is pretty noisy, it's not comparable to a custom, higher end setup. Still, it should be fine for a 4790k at default settings, at least a lot better than the stock cooler. Size-compatibility is a plus if you can fit it in but can't fit something like a Cryorig H5 ultimate/universal
"oh my god my overclock... I got a single WHEA error on the 23rd hour, 9 minutes" -Belial88
Golgotha
Profile Blog Joined January 2011
Korea (South)8418 Posts
January 21 2016 19:54 GMT
#11599
@firk and cyro

Thanks for the input. I can't get the NH-D9 or D14 because it's not compatible with my rig. the coolers that are compatible and that are in my budget are: Corsair H60, Corsair H75, Corsair 80i, Noctua NH-L9i. They are listed here: https://pcpartpicker.com/parts/cpu-cooler/

yeah it's probably hot because my case is so small. Still, I am unsure which will give me the better temps. the corsair CLCs or the Noctua.
Cyro
Profile Blog Joined June 2011
United Kingdom20345 Posts
January 21 2016 22:23 GMT
#11600
Probably the h80i (but that $$ cost for small coolers *sadface*)
"oh my god my overclock... I got a single WHEA error on the 23rd hour, 9 minutes" -Belial88
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