EPTSimple Questions Simple Answers - Page 650
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Craton
United States17281 Posts
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Karis Vas Ryaar
United States4396 Posts
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Karis Vas Ryaar
United States4396 Posts
also how good is built in bass these days if I just want to buy active speakers for like 250-300 bucks that have built in subwoofers. | ||
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Lmui
Canada6223 Posts
On April 08 2021 13:37 Karis Vas Ryaar wrote: random question about speakers if people have ideas. pretty simple one. My speaker system is dead I think. I used a mini hifi system that is a decade old and super outdated. looking to replace it with just a basic 2.1 system. I found an active 2.1 system for 300 that gets really good reviews. Or I could go the passive route and get the speakers and receiver individually which would basically be the same price (100 for speakers 100-150 for speakers and like 80-100 for receiver). Is one of the two systems going to give me better sound quality for the price? I don't care about anything marginal just curious about active versus passive in general. I use it for listening to music in my bedroom so I play it somewhat loud. When I move I plan on having a 2.1 system and a full surround sound system so the ability to integrate it into something larger isn't a concern cause I plan to keep using it in some form as a 2.1 system. also how good is built in bass these days if I just want to buy active speakers for like 250-300 bucks that have built in subwoofers. https://www.reddit.com/r/hometheater/ https://www.reddit.com/r/BudgetAudiophile Probably a better place to find resources than here. Their wiki's are quite a bit better fleshed out than any advice here. | ||
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Karis Vas Ryaar
United States4396 Posts
In case anyone was curious I was able to figure it out pretty well. passive seems the best and I can just buy a 2 pair then get a sub later. | ||
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Craton
United States17281 Posts
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Lmui
Canada6223 Posts
On May 01 2021 16:43 Craton wrote: Are PoE powered PoE switches a thing? For example to have one in an attic connected to multiple IP PoE cameras and then a single cable running back from that switch to the network (which is providing power to the switch and other devices). I'm guessing the limitation is ultimately the power that a ~24AWG 5e can carry. You're looking for something with PoE passthrough. https://www.trendnet.com/products/managed-switch/5-Port-Gigabit-PoEplus-Powered-EdgeSmart-Switch-with-PoE-Passthrough-TPE-P521ES That was the first one I found, not sure how much power your cameras take. If it's more than 5W per camera you might need to consider finding a way to run power to the switch. | ||
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WombaT
Northern Ireland26703 Posts
So say I’m going to click something in the minimised tray or whatever it’s actually called, the icon prompt ‘safely remove hardware and eject media’ keeps appearing and reappearing over and over again. My webcam also doesn’t work as it keeps reconnecting and disconnecting, although my peripherals and audio interface don’t seem to be affected. I’ve moved things to different ports and it doesn’t seem like it’s a particular port that’s causing the annoyance, and I’ve gone into device manager to turn off power saving (to get my Switch controller to work), which was the only suggestion I’ve found so far that seemed to work for other people. When I’m in device manager too it keeps refreshing every 1-2 seconds too in a similar fashion to what I outlined earlier. Thanks in advance. Hopefully explained it adequately | ||
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Lmui
Canada6223 Posts
AMD's USB handling in recent years was pretty rocky so that's the most likely cause. | ||
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Cyro
United Kingdom20326 Posts
On September 30 2021 18:32 WombaT wrote: I’m having this irritating issue where (Windows 10, AMD) a USB device notice keeps popping up all the time and disappearing, really quite rapidly all the time. So say I’m going to click something in the minimised tray or whatever it’s actually called, the icon prompt ‘safely remove hardware and eject media’ keeps appearing and reappearing over and over again. My webcam also doesn’t work as it keeps reconnecting and disconnecting, although my peripherals and audio interface don’t seem to be affected. I’ve moved things to different ports and it doesn’t seem like it’s a particular port that’s causing the annoyance, and I’ve gone into device manager to turn off power saving (to get my Switch controller to work), which was the only suggestion I’ve found so far that seemed to work for other people. When I’m in device manager too it keeps refreshing every 1-2 seconds too in a similar fashion to what I outlined earlier. Thanks in advance. Hopefully explained it adequately What CPU? What RAM/IF settings if it's recent? | ||
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prosatan
Romania8682 Posts
When I try to acces this site on Google Chrome , I cannot  NET::ERR_CERT_DATE_INVALID And I tried on Firefox and it works! I logged in with my acc, prosatan and here it works.... And on stupid Chrome I can only acces youtube and facebook..... | ||
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Simberto
Germany11813 Posts
On October 02 2021 18:06 prosatan wrote: Please TL help me! When I try to acces this site on Google Chrome , I cannot NET::ERR_CERT_DATE_INVALID And I tried on Firefox and it works! I logged in with my acc, prosatan and here it works.... And on stupid Chrome I can only acces youtube and facebook..... Solution: Use firefox  | ||
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WombaT
Northern Ireland26703 Posts
On October 02 2021 08:19 Cyro wrote: What CPU? What RAM/IF settings if it's recent? It’s rather recent indeed, my friend got the exact same prebuilt and isn’t having this issue, rather typical. I don’t have the specs in my brain but will post when I can check. How would I go about checking RAM settings and what does the IF refer to? A new acronym on me! Cheers for getting back. @Lmui cheers, I’ll have a go at that if all else fails! | ||
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prosatan
Romania8682 Posts
haaaaa ! you got me  ! i like chrome better !!! | ||
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Cyro
United Kingdom20326 Posts
On October 02 2021 20:22 WombaT wrote: It’s rather recent indeed, my friend got the exact same prebuilt and isn’t having this issue, rather typical. I don’t have the specs in my brain but will post when I can check. How would I go about checking RAM settings and what does the IF refer to? A new acronym on me! Cheers for getting back. @Lmui cheers, I’ll have a go at that if all else fails! Infinity Fabric, the interconnect for the CPU. A lot of prebuilt vendors rely on motherboard auto-overclocks for some things relating to it and don't test them adequately. | ||
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WombaT
Northern Ireland26703 Posts
Had another one, have an old-ish spare laptop, was my sister’s first to get her more acclimated to computer usage. It perpetually after about a month ran horrifically on her user account, was pretty usable on mine. For reasons I was never really able to discover, even after sending it back to where we bought it the problem re-occurred. Anyway that aside I was going to wipe it, my son needs a school laptop, really nothing too hefty just enough to run Office, Google classroom and some Scratch stuff, his stepdad’s is a work laptop that won’t allow new programs to be installed. What would be the best way to clean reinstall Windows and just have it a clean slate? I suspect when I stuck it back in to where I bought it they didn’t do this, hence the weird performance issues returned, I think they restored it based on the recovery history and from local files. I have a USB stick I got with my own rig purchase which is marked ‘Recovety’ so I believe that’s just a bootable Windows 10 clean install. Would that be my best bet? I’m not as incompetent as I sound at times, I’ve wiped/restored from backups many, many Macs at this stage just not sure if that’s either the best option or exactly how to do it for a Windows machine. | ||
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Craton
United States17281 Posts
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MeSaber
Sweden1235 Posts
Download win10 installer and make a bootable usb stick. I wouldnt trust a "recovery drive", it could install a lot of crap. | ||
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WombaT
Northern Ireland26703 Posts
Unfortunately I didn't bother to check if my motherboard sockets would accommodate such a new arrival, and apparently the answer is, no they don't. I'd still be pretty happy with a terabyte SSD that's bottlenecked at SATA speeds, for the price I got it at and hold it in reserve in bottlenecked land. Would that be easy enough to achieve via an adaptor of some kind? My motherboard is a little lacking in some capacities anyway so of all my current components I'd be looking to upgrade that next anyway, and make room for two NVME drives, plus Thunderbolt ports amongst other things. In the interim though I'd rather not have a paperweight. For the price I got this drive + longstanding Amazon gift vouchers it was cheaper than most standard SSDs of that capacity, so even if I was to use it sub-optimally for a while it would still be a decent value proposition. Thanks in advance folks | ||
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Cyro
United Kingdom20326 Posts
Unfortunately I didn't bother to check if my motherboard sockets would accommodate such a new arrival, and apparently the answer is, no they don't. What board do you have, and how many other drives? My board supports four m.2's IIRC, but several of them are hidden away. m.2 to PCI-E, Sata or even USB (3.0 / 3.1 / type C are very fast - actually faster than SATA at times) seems to be a thing - but i have no experience with them. | ||
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