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Falling
Canada11367 Posts
1.161 with Windows 7 is washed out with grey and none of the old tricks seems to work (no Aero, kill explorer, and/or Screen Resolution) Switched to Battlenet version on both my Windows 7 and my Windows 11 computers (Remastered, pretty sure). Both cause an input not supported on my monitor. (Acer monitor, but I am pretty sure I used to play Starcraft on this monitor.) Just updated NVIDIA driver, but didn't seem to make any change. | ||
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MeSaber
Sweden1235 Posts
Reinstall SC:R from the bnet app. Remove path to old installation or use uninstaller. Install/update dependencies. You can do this via windows update. The reason you might have issues is because something saved on the drive has been corrupt due to inactivity. Even when drives are offline for a long time you can have data loss. The screen issue could be non-supported resolution, this could be due to data loss. In short reinstall everything necessary for SC:R to run. | ||
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Falling
Canada11367 Posts
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MarlieChurphy
United States2063 Posts
I am 100% completion of all the SC2 campaigns (except all the new 10y anniversary stuff) but Nova has been stuck at 95% even though I've done everything... Here's some screenshots. No idea how to fix. https://ibb.co/cJc7bZ3 https://ibb.co/wCQBDJ0 https://ibb.co/GMxtHkY | ||
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Cyro
United Kingdom20318 Posts
On June 06 2022 12:31 MarlieChurphy wrote: I dont really know where to ask this question, but this has been bugged for like 4-5 years or something lol. I am 100% completion of all the SC2 campaigns (except all the new 10y anniversary stuff) but Nova has been stuck at 95% even though I've done everything... Here's some screenshots. No idea how to fix. https://ibb.co/cJc7bZ3 https://ibb.co/wCQBDJ0 https://ibb.co/GMxtHkY Good old Blizzard. You likely won't be able to fix this now, but if you feel up to it you could try re-completing all of those bonus objective achievements in case one pops. Huge amount of effort for a longshot though.. | ||
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Durak
Canada3684 Posts
On May 26 2022 07:32 Cyro wrote: Certain motherboards and versions of windows just don't work like this unless you modify the windows install package to include a USB driver or somehow install one afterwards. E.g. 8'th gen+ Intel motherboards don't have a driver compatible with Windows 7. I installed Windows 10 Pro. My motherboard is ASUS H61M-A. I tried the Dell website and I can't find my mouse driver because the Dell mouse is so old. I managed to navigate to https://www.asus.com/supportonly/H61M-A/HelpDesk_Download/ to try to download drivers. But then I couldn't select the OS from the drop-down using keyboard only. I'm not even sure if the LAN driver would have helped... I'm really not sure what to do to get my mouse working. | ||
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MeSaber
Sweden1235 Posts
 Time to upgrade? :D Edit: My mistake. Im on Haswell H81M-E33. | ||
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Craton
United States17257 Posts
I have a Frisby 5.1 speaker setup that I've used for several years now connected via three plugs on the motherboard (3.5mm?). Last night everything was fine, today it's many times quieter than it should be. With the hardware dial cranked to max and windows at 100% the audio is what I'd call slightly quiet, whereas before that would've been audible outside my house. The volume is consistent across different applications. In the windows sound mixer, the applications are not turned down. The correct speaker output is selected (if I switch it to a TV that I have connected the volume is louder as expected). I've tried rebooting, reinstalling the Realtek driver, resetting basically whichever audio settings I can find, checked that the plugs to the PC and to the subwoofer (which everything connects to) are all firmly seated. When I test the individual speakers they all match correctly, but the subwoofer and rear speakers are noticeably quieter (maybe 10% of the front 2 & center). I do not have automatic updates and can't think of anything that would've updated overnight (the PC was not rebooted before this started happening). I'm wondering if I just have a hardware failure. | ||
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Lmui
Canada6214 Posts
On July 07 2022 03:12 Craton wrote: I'm looking for help figuring out an audio issue. I have a Frisby 5.1 speaker setup that I've used for several years now connected via three plugs on the motherboard (3.5mm?). Last night everything was fine, today it's many times quieter than it should be. With the hardware dial cranked to max and windows at 100% the audio is what I'd call slightly quiet, whereas before that would've been audible outside my house. The volume is consistent across different applications. In the windows sound mixer, the applications are not turned down. The correct speaker output is selected (if I switch it to a TV that I have connected the volume is louder as expected). I've tried rebooting, reinstalling the Realtek driver, resetting basically whichever audio settings I can find, checked that the plugs to the PC and to the subwoofer (which everything connects to) are all firmly seated. When I test the individual speakers they all match correctly, but the subwoofer and rear speakers are noticeably quieter (maybe 10% of the front 2 & center). I do not have automatic updates and can't think of anything that would've updated overnight (the PC was not rebooted before this started happening). I'm wondering if I just have a hardware failure. Try swapping the plugs around, green plug to the rear speakers, and see if the volume is normal or not. This should be able to isolate if there's a failure in a speaker or a specific output. | ||
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WombaT
Northern Ireland25925 Posts
I have quite a sensitive condenser microphone, the sound quality is really good but there’s a lot of bleed through of background noise, especially my clicky keyboard. Been doing a video run through demoing a college project and I could run various audio plugins that cleaned up a lot of those issues. I’m starting a job soon, work from home and I’d like to apply those same settings to my general mic output for all applications. Have any of you had any experience in implementing this? | ||
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WombaT
Northern Ireland25925 Posts
A couple of weeks ago I noticed some wonky behaviour. Notably any new device of any kind could not connect to my home network. Tried my gf’s phone, laptop. Uncabled my PC and tried it with a Wi-Fi adapter. Friend’s phone wouldn’t connect either. I tried temporarily dropping the security down a notch on the router settings, then disabling it entirely and still nothing would connect. It’s a dual band 2.4/5ghz router with the visible network merged and allocating what specific band depending on internal considerations. I did some experimenting/investigating and the 2.4 band had almost nothing connected to it. I forced some devices to only use the 2.4 band, and their connection to the router was awful. My phone was getting 5-10 mbs when directly beside the router, and that degraded further. Versus decent 5-600 hundred even at a reasonable distance. It has an orange glow, which is not one of the listed default LED statuses. The only other info I could find about this was another service user who was told it could be indicative of overheating, which dovetails neatly with my personal assessment - namely that these issues started in the few days of what constitutes a heat wave in this country and I think there’s been damage to the hardware. Long story short, my ISP absolutely insisted on me factory resetting the thing before sending an engineer out. I said I don’t think it’s a good idea, if no new device can be authenticated then flushing out the existing list of authenticated devices doesn’t seem sensible. Thus far I appear somewhat validated. My phone cannot connect, nor give an error message, it is basically stuck in a perpetual cycle of trying to connect. My mum’s phone connects but only to the router and the internal network, not to the wider internet. So far my PC that is cabled via a home plug is the only device that can connect to the internet post reset. And as it (delightfully) turns out the engineer I wanted out who was meant to be coming out tomorrow and whose visit I was only to precipitate by factory resetting my router had to cancel and isn’t coming out until later this week/early next. I’d prefer not to be without functional internet for a week (my phone signal strength is awful so I can’t even tether) Any of you have any bright ideas on how to try to troubleshoot this in the interim? Cheers in advance | ||
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MeSaber
Sweden1235 Posts
You didnt mention model. | ||
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bloooargh
United States28 Posts
Of course, this is speaking as an American ISP customer, where the provided routers are trash, and the tech's visit would cost as much as buying a new one anyway. | ||
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WombaT
Northern Ireland25925 Posts
On August 30 2022 05:36 MeSaber wrote: Well you can always convert to DD-WRT. You didnt mention model. Ah. Probably worth mentioning. It’s some ISP variant Arris model. One that’s very locked down and can’t have custom firmware flashed to it. Thanks for the response, it is a conversion I’m considering. On August 31 2022 07:39 bloooargh wrote: This would be the kind of situation where I ran off to the nearest electronics store, bought a new WiFi router, and plugged it in to a LAN port on the ISP's router. Then when (if) the tech comes out, I'd put the new router away and pretend I still had no wireless. Of course, this is speaking as an American ISP customer, where the provided routers are trash, and the tech's visit would cost as much as buying a new one anyway. A great plan, if my bank account hadn’t of been bottomed out! My humble router served us well, but it is rather old now, and was malfunctioning. Locked down so it can’t even be used as an access point or anything. I can use it in modem mode though. Well I managed to badger them to expedite sending an engineer. As they were trying to to do a few things and checks I got a few ‘hms’, ‘that’s weird’ and then a ‘fuck it, we’re replacing the router’. I felt validated, like that character in a haunted house when their family finally see the ghosts too. Everything seems to be working smoothly, but in my attempts to troubleshoot this it has somewhat ignited my desire to experiment and improve my home network. I’m happy to look up the technical nitty gritty, but what kind of improvements/tech are you folks using? What’s worth the effort? Some things I’ve encountered on my quest, or long standing goals 1. Getting a printer to work reliably (ok that’s unrealistic) 2. Some kind of more robust/customisable software/fireware on another router, or via a Pi Hole. Aside from the general scourge of ads, which I’ve learned to live with, are the purported performances benefits performance wise from cutting all those DNS requests worth it? 3. Repurposing some old rigs into media servers or whatever. 4. Same but a home cloud server for work, or something remotely accessible with SSH or w/e Thanks again, and those are a bit vague but thought I’d canvas for some inspiration! I find my Googling delineates neatly into results telling me either to turn it off and on again at one end, or ‘have you tried being your own ISP?’ at the other and oft the kind of middle ground between luddite and expert is lost in the wash. Much obliged, Wombat | ||
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Cyro
United Kingdom20318 Posts
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Craton
United States17257 Posts
My home router is actually a Google mesh now (2 routers, 2 access points). I ran DD-WRT (I think) for years, but I moved into this house which has cinderblock walls and the router WIFI signal was trash (issues 25 feet away). I had a second cheaper router and tried to get them working together on a mesh, but never got it to work. I suspect the lesser router just didn't have enough disk space for the packages it needed, but even if it did there's a huge lack of documentation and examples available since it's such a rare use-case (most of the examples that I could find were also running on much older versions of the firmware). Eventually I just gave up and got the Google ones on sale. WIFI now reaches out about 150 feet past the house well enough to play music (audio only). No idea about DNS performance. I just run a HOSTS file on my desktops and block at that level. Amazon AWS has some free tiers of stuff on the cloud if your usage is low. | ||
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VGhost
United States3616 Posts
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MeSaber
Sweden1235 Posts
On December 29 2022 11:07 VGhost wrote: Anybody have a recommended method/extension for checking bookmarks for dead links? I'd rather not have to go through them all manually. Thats a great python project if ure into coding or wanna learn Quick googling i found "am-deadlink" maybe thats what you need if you dont wanna make it yourself. | ||
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Simberto
Germany11602 Posts
Over the last few days, my PC has started randomly shutting down (ish, explained later) when i randomly touch the tower with my leg. I assume this might have something to do with static electricity or something like that. But maybe there are some other ideas someone has? Does anyone have a good idea on what i could do? I assume that this is something that is dangerous to my stuff in the long term? More detailed explanation: It doesn't seem to completely shut down, the sound keeps going, lights in the tower are still on, but the screen goes completely dark. It doesn't seem to be possible to wake the PC from this state. Oh, and just to be sure, i don't touch the off button or anything like that. | ||
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MeSaber
Sweden1235 Posts
Have you overclocked? Old hardware can be on the edge of stability, might need a bit more juice. I wouldnt touch chassis that much if its somehow chocking the motherboard and causing a crash. | ||
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