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On a similar note, Anyone knowledgeable about cable modems and routers for comcast? I haven't used comcast for the past few years so I'm a bit behind in tech. I'm likely getting Comcast Xfinity's blast! package, which is 200 down. The modem and router I had before are too slow for that level of internet so I'm looking for other options.
Do people have any experience (good or bad) with the modem/router combos? I'm looking at these two models in particular. Both support up to 300 down, and can do both 2.4 and 5 ghz wireless, whatever that means.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IF0JAYE/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I39IVHS3VBZ9Q&colid=T5K5334Y3XB8
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0100KRBA6/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I1YAQXQW98P6BL&colid=T5K5334Y3XB8
In case these details matter, I'll be moving into a high rise apartment building, unit is about 750 sq ft so I don't think I'll have any issues losing wifi signal while I'm in my place. Are there any really significant gains to getting 2 separate units, besides being able to replace them 1 by 1 if one of them goes to the shitter? I could also future proof by getting a unit with a higher # of channels for faster future internet, but I find it unlikely that i'll actually need something even faster than this for the near future
Thanks
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Any DOCSIS 3.0 modem should be fine as far as speeds go between the Internet and your network. You'll want to make sure that if you do get a combo unit that it has enough internal speed for your network. Sometimes the cheaper combo units, routers, and/or uninterruptable power supples (UPS) only have 100mbps ports. You'll want to be sure you have 1000mbps/1gbps, especially if you plan on any intra-LAN traffic (from my local NAS I get ~80MBps sustained).
Don't underestimate the signal interference in a highrise apartment. I can detect 42 discreet networks from my desk with most of them clustered around two of the channels. My network equipment is in the corner of my living room and the signal to my bedroom was so low (<5mbps) that I had to mount a wireless AP on a wall between the two to get enough bandwidth to watch streams.
The main difference between 2.4GHz and 5.0 is the frequencies and that 5.0 typically is "faster" but with shorter range. Supposedly 5.0 is supposed to have more channels and therefore less congestion. I haven't really seen it matter in practice. The wireless standard you're able to use will probably have a bigger effect than one band or the other (802.11g, n, ac, etc.).
In my case I inherited an older router with 100mbps ports so I stuck a gigabit switch between it and my LAN so that internal traffic is full speed. I don't have more than 100mbps Internet speeds so it works fine for me. In your case you could do that but you'd lose out on half of your stated Internet speed from a single device*.
*Generally speaking wireless networks are never pulling particularly high speeds. The wireless specs support it, but devices just don't seem to be able to handle it. I don't think mine ever go over 50mbps even right next to the wireless AP or router; YMMV. Also if you happen to have a wired device with multiple network ports it's possible to set things up so that you use multiple ports, so it's theoretically possible to use multiple ports worth of bandwidth on a switch, assuming your devices support that configuration. I would just avoid having to deal with that altogether, though.
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You don't need a modem for FIOS, the connection they run to you is already ethernet. Depending on the speed of your service, you'll need a decent router.
Also regarding cable modems, I'd recommend the Arris Surfboard series. Specifically, https://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-SURFboard-SB6183-DOCSIS-Cable/dp/B00MA5U1FW (not the latest model as that has the notorious Puma6 chipset). A separate modem and router is strongly recommended for the best connection.
If you want a nice WiFi router, the hAP AC is my preferred combo router/AP. https://www.amazon.com/Mikrotik-RB962UIGS-5HACT2HNT-RouterBoard-hAP-AC/dp/B01BMMK4HI - this is a much more powerful router than your typical off-the-shelf router, and requires some knowledge to configure, but you can expect great reliability and speeds once configured.
Here's my current WiFi from my phone which shows decent WiFi is definitely possible, this is in an apartment complex too (although with thicker walls than you would find in the US):
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Seems like from today I'm getting thrown out of TL.net after a few seconds when I have AdBlock enabled. The message that is displayed can be seen below. Intentional?
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We detect and send acceptable ads to adblock users. If you also block those, then you will receive this error. Make sure you're using a basic filter list and not something huge that blocks absolutely everything.
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On July 10 2017 23:35 R1CH wrote:
You don't need a modem for FIOS, the connection they run to you is already ethernet. Depending on the speed of your service, you'll need a decent router.
What makes it so only certain gateway routers work, then? It seems to me if it's already Ethernet then any router ought to work, but I've read various things claiming most routers don't work with Verizon.
Coincidentally, I use an Arris SURFboard SB 6141. My old one lasted about 5 years.
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At least when I had FIOS, any Ethernet router should have worked A cheap one may not be able to handle high speeds (CPU gets overloaded too easily for example). Perhaps these reports are confusing routers with combo modem/routers.
If you get other services beyond internet delivered over FIOS, then you may indeed need something more specialized to split the VLANs / IPTV stuff out.
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Quick question that google solutions have failed at:
On my Windows10 login (and only mine) I get a "Recycle bin corrupted message", but when trying to delete it, it can't. Access denied when trying to use rs /s /q D:\$Recycle.bin via an admin cmd window. Also fails in safe mode and "Administrator" login.
When searching for the folder it seems empty. Pretty much tried every fix on Google apart from "reinstall".
Any bright ideas much appreciated. Spoilered the error messages I get below. Cheers.
+ Show Spoiler +
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What happens when you click on the Admin continue on the second message?
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On July 18 2017 07:49 MoonfireSpam wrote:Quick question that google solutions have failed at: On my Windows10 login (and only mine) I get a "Recycle bin corrupted message", but when trying to delete it, it can't. Access denied when trying to use rs /s /q D:\$Recycle.bin via an admin cmd window. Also fails in safe mode and "Administrator" login. When searching for the folder it seems empty. Pretty much tried every fix on Google apart from "reinstall". Any bright ideas much appreciated. Spoilered the error messages I get below. Cheers. + Show Spoiler +
See here: https://superuser.com/a/1017611
They are from a different user ID, that's why you did not have access. You can Take ownership on $Recycle.Bin, and propagate it down, and then delete them if you want.
You can always safely delete the whole $Recycle.Bin, it comes back right away (clean and empty) without any actions from you; Explorer does that. I remove it every other day or so, for years, never any problems.
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On July 19 2017 07:55 Craton wrote:Show nested quote +On July 18 2017 07:49 MoonfireSpam wrote:Quick question that google solutions have failed at: On my Windows10 login (and only mine) I get a "Recycle bin corrupted message", but when trying to delete it, it can't. Access denied when trying to use rs /s /q D:\$Recycle.bin via an admin cmd window. Also fails in safe mode and "Administrator" login. When searching for the folder it seems empty. Pretty much tried every fix on Google apart from "reinstall". Any bright ideas much appreciated. Spoilered the error messages I get below. Cheers. + Show Spoiler + See here: https://superuser.com/a/1017611Show nested quote +They are from a different user ID, that's why you did not have access. You can Take ownership on $Recycle.Bin, and propagate it down, and then delete them if you want.
You can always safely delete the whole $Recycle.Bin, it comes back right away (clean and empty) without any actions from you; Explorer does that. I remove it every other day or so, for years, never any problems.
The thought someone diligently deleting their recycle bin every other day or so, for years upon years disturbs me.
At least automate the process.
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On July 19 2017 20:22 Deleuze wrote:
At least automate the process.
Because I'm in a good mood :
1] Create new task schedule
2] Run as user with appropriate rights
3] Set a time where computer is on alot of times
4] Make the Task Schedule run C:\cleanbin.bat (or location of your choosing)
5] Create a new notepad file containing :
"
REM Remove recyclebin script for all users
rd /q /s %systemdrive%\$recycle.bin
"
6] Save this file as "C:\cleanbin.bat" (make sure it is not a text-file and that it is the same location as at Point 4).
As Deleuze said, it really hurts me aswell to see such manual actions 
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I'm pretty sure you can just set it to run cmd.exe and pass the rest as arguments. Don't even need a batch file.
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On July 20 2017 09:06 Craton wrote:
I'm pretty sure you can just set it to run cmd.exe and pass the rest as arguments. Don't even need a batch file.
Force of habit.
You're right, however as a standard I would always recommend using batch or PS scripts instead of directly putting arguments into the task scheduler.
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I like to know from "strongest" to "weakest" Ram. Like from 1800mhz CL9 to 1333 CL11. I can buy any from 1800 to 1333mhz. I guess I should buy two 1600mhz pieces?. I need two because of dual channel technology.
edit: non-ECC, un-buffered memory. I ony play blizzard games.
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On July 20 2017 23:49 Dingodile wrote:
I like to know from "strongest" to "weakest" Ram. Like from 1800mhz CL9 to 1333 CL11. I can buy any from 1800 to 1333mhz. I guess I should buy two 1600mhz pieces?. I need two because of dual channel technology.
edit: non-ECC, un-buffered memory. I ony play blizzard games.
As a gamer, you should only look into Mhz speed, since CL (Cas Latency) has little to no impact on performance for these types of things.
In this scenario, a solid 1800Mhz stick with any CL (cheapest will probably be CL9 or 11) is fastest (strongest), where a 1333 Mhz will be slowest (weakest). The factor I didn't bring in here is vendors, which could have an impact on performance as well.
Whatever you do, make sure your RAM is compatible with your motherboard by checking the motherboard's manual.
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thanks, motherboard's manual says: supports DDR3 1800(OC), 1600(OC), 1333, 1066, 800 non-ECC un-buffered memory. AsRock 870 Extreme3 (from 2010), Win7 64bit. What do you suggest?
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DDR3 1800 would be the best if you take the time to OC so you can use it. Otherwise it'll just default to 1333.
Actually you made me remember I never took the time to look into this after I installed my additional RAM sticks, so now I'm sitting here running stability tests after having changed my clocks to be where they should've been. My sticks/mobo are 8-8-8-24 1600 non-OC and for some reason they were in there 9-9-9-24 1333.
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In Germany, most 1800 and 1600 rams are cheaper than 1333. It's ok if i buy that and use it without OC? I have no clue how to OC.
edit: I have 2x2GB 1333 CL9, but I want to upgrade. There are 2 slots free. All local shops offer 1x4GB 1333 CL11. I haven't looked about 1600 and 1800 timings.
I also can buy 2x4GB CL11, install them and remove the 7 yrs old CL9 rams.
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EPT![[image loading]](http://i.imgur.com/a5IhLja.png)
