EPTSimple Questions Simple Answers - Page 606
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HornyHerring
Papua New Guinea1059 Posts
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z0rz
United States350 Posts
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Simberto
Germany11894 Posts
On February 26 2017 08:26 OsaX Nymloth wrote: You can check the GPU temperatures to see if the graphic card is overheating. But since you're still on warranty I would do few tests: - FurMark, as you already did - some benchmark - reinstall drivers, cleanly You could try putting the GPU into different PC if you have such possibility. If the crashes continue during further testing, write to support of your manufacturer or AMD, provide as much details to make sure it isn't some known issue. Proceed with warranty claim. Edit: ah yes, the PSU. If you could swap PSU with different unit that would be cool as well. Don't know your model/brand, but unless it's some black list tier I doubt that it's PSU issue. But to test this you could try running few tests without GPU in PC, just using your integrated graphic card if you have one. Some more research leads me to believe that the problem is indeed my PSU. a) The problem does not appear with my old graphics card b) I have a CombatPower CP750W, and according to this, that is a pretty shitty PSU. Especially does that test describe exactly the problem that i have, that the PSU is not able to supply enough power to a modern graphics card for a longer time. So i now assume that the problem is indeed that, the graphics card is fine, the PSU is shit and doesn't supply enough power for it. My old graphics card, which uses less power, is fine. Can someone check if that reasoning is reasonable, and how one would go about checking if that is indeed the problem? And if it is the problem, i would like some advice on what kind of PSU would be reasonable for my setup. PC setup: Windows 10 i7-2600k 2x4Gb Ram Motherboard Asus P8P67 SLI Deluxe Rev 3.0 750W PSU Combatpower CP750W MSI Radeon R9 390 | ||
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OsaX Nymloth
Poland3244 Posts
On February 28 2017 05:18 Simberto wrote: Some more research leads me to believe that the problem is indeed my PSU. a) The problem does not appear with my old graphics card b) I have a CombatPower CP750W, and according to this, that is a pretty shitty PSU. Especially does that test describe exactly the problem that i have, that the PSU is not able to supply enough power to a modern graphics card for a longer time. So i now assume that the problem is indeed that, the graphics card is fine, the PSU is shit and doesn't supply enough power for it. My old graphics card, which uses less power, is fine. Can someone check if that reasoning is reasonable, and how one would go about checking if that is indeed the problem? And if it is the problem, i would like some advice on what kind of PSU would be reasonable for my setup. PC setup: Windows 10 i7-2600k 2x4Gb Ram Motherboard Asus P8P67 SLI Deluxe Rev 3.0 750W PSU Combatpower CP750W MSI Radeon R9 390 Yup, seems like PSU could very well be the issue. Makes sense that it just can't supply the power your GPU is demanding, thus it crashes. You could buy one of those PSU testers, but depending on what you buy they might now show any defects or be too expensive to actually buy them for this sole purpose. If you can't borrow PSU from somebody, then just buy new one. Shouldn't be too expensive. As for brand: myself I'm using Corsair and SilentiumPC for years and never had trouble, but really, just look at any product from big brands (Corsair, bequit, Chieftec, Cooler Master, XFX, Thermartake etc.) and you should be fine. Also you don't need 750W unit IMHO for this rig, even 500-550 could probably suffice. Fast google lead me to here: http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/forum/299096-28-blacklist | ||
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Ropid
Germany3557 Posts
You can't be safe by looking at brands. The brands all don't manufacture the PSUs themselves. There are a handful big manufacturers for PSUs and the brands all order from them. Brands often have both good and bad PSUs in their line-up. | ||
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Simberto
Germany11894 Posts
I ended up ordering a Corsair RM650X a few hours ago, which is apparently quite good according to people who opened it, and pretty much everything i saw about it. I assume i am also just gonna save a bunch of money on electricity that way in the end. | ||
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Simberto
Germany11894 Posts
+ Show Spoiler + Ok, i need some help with the next problem that turned up. I installed the new PSU, and everything went well. PC started, and i ran Furmark for 20 minutes without problem (that never happened before). Then i closed the PC case, and nothing worked at all. Currently when i try to boot my PC, all the fans turn on, about 30 seconds later everything shuts down, and it looks like it is trying to reboot. Afterwards, the fans spin, and nothing else happens. I especially at no point get the "everything ok" beep. Now, i assumed that some cables got loose when closing the case, so i double and triplechecked everything. The PC booted normally exactly once, and now it is back to the problem described above, and nothing i do seems to help. Any ideas what could be going on? (I hope it is nothing serious, i really, really can't afford any more PC parts at the moment, and i need a pc. | ||
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Frudgey
Canada3367 Posts
At this point I've come to the conclusion that it's my Graphics Card that's the issue, but I would like a second opinion on this. Moreover, if it IS the graphics card that is the problem, I'm wondering if it's just dead, or if there's something I can do to fix it. I haven't opened up my computer yet, though I was planning to do so later. Thanks. P.S., This might be a dumb question, but can computers even run with a dead Graphics Card? | ||
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Simberto
Germany11894 Posts
Do you have multiple graphics cards, or are both monitors attached to the same graphics card? Do they both work when they are attached alone, or do they both only work when attached to the bottom (or top) slot on the graphics card? If you see stuff on any monitor attached to the graphics card, it is not totally dead. Maybe one of the slots is broken? Do you have any other hardware to do some testing with? Either a different PC to test the graphics card in, or a different graphics card to test with your PC? | ||
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mantequilla
Turkey781 Posts
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z0rz
United States350 Posts
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Ropid
Germany3557 Posts
On March 13 2017 15:24 z0rz wrote: My PC gets stuck on the BIOS load screen but none of the hotkeys work, caps lock light is responsive on the keyboard, eventually goes to a black screen without loading Windows. Tried clearing CMOS and a couple things to force dual BIOS to switch (Gigabyte Z68) but nothing is working. I think I know what might have gone wrong in the BIOS but I can't do anything to change the settings. Any ideas? On my Gigabyte board, you can force the switch to the second BIOS through holding down and not letting go of the power button while switching the PC on. I mean: you start with the PC off, you then begin holding down the power button, the PC will turn on and will turn off again after a while, and only then you let go of the power button. On the next boot after this, the board will choose the second BIOS. | ||
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alone
Poland410 Posts
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Ropid
Germany3557 Posts
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alone
Poland410 Posts
On March 13 2017 21:58 Ropid wrote: I'm guessing using a separate cable or the same cable is the same as it's all connected together to one 12V source inside the PSU anyways. Okay thanks, but wont it be too much for the cable itself? It obviously has it limits but I doubt power draw from sound card and single led fan will overload it. | ||
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z0rz
United States350 Posts
On March 13 2017 18:17 Ropid wrote: On my Gigabyte board, you can force the switch to the second BIOS through holding down and not letting go of the power button while switching the PC on. I mean: you start with the PC off, you then begin holding down the power button, the PC will turn on and will turn off again after a while, and only then you let go of the power button. On the next boot after this, the board will choose the second BIOS. Yeah, I've tried this and a couple other methods. Pretty sure the second BIOS is just 100% dead - it shuts down and restarts an extra time when I try to switch, so it's reverting back to the one that will at least start but do nothing else. Also tried unplugging all peripherals, running onboard video, disconnecting my boot drive and plugging in a recovery USB drive, etc. Gonna try Q-Flash with the flash drive but that's about all I can think of and I don't expect that to work since the BIOS hotkeys don't take me anywhere. Clearing CMOS usually fixed problems like this :/ | ||
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Simberto
Germany11894 Posts
On March 13 2017 22:41 alone wrote: Okay thanks, but wont it be too much for the cable itself? It obviously has it limits but I doubt power draw from sound card and single led fan will overload it. Pretty sure that the cable itself will never be a problem inside a computer. You don't have gigantic currents running through it, and there is simply no reason to ever make a cable thin enough that you could possibly have problems with it. If you are still uncertain, just do it, and touch the cable in question after a few minutes. If it is not warm, everything is fine. | ||
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Djzapz
Canada10681 Posts
To name some symptoms, sometimes it randomly decides to turn down the sound so it's inaudible or on the contrary, unbearably loud. The least terrible way I've found has been to use earbuds (without a mic) and the phone's microphone, but that seems to work very poorly sometimes. I've tried other software, namely discord, but then I would get intense feedback and there doesn't seem to be a way to fix it. Is there better software for this, or something I can buy to make the sound quality more stable? | ||
tofucake
Hyrule19221 Posts
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KOFgokuon
United States14912 Posts
So, the most obvious issue is that the hdmi port might be 1.4 rather than 2.0 but i haven't been able to find a definitive answer to this and ASUS support sucks. I'm definitely using the correct monitor port, and a 2.0 cable. The other option I have is to use a DisplayPort to USB-c adapter and run it with that option, but if that fails I'm out of ideas. Any one have any thoughts? Thanks | ||
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