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OsaX Nymloth
Poland3244 Posts
On July 26 2016 17:34 sdee3 wrote: That's good, how did you change it to AHCI? It is possible to change the setting to AHCI without reinstalling whole Windows anew. Just need a bit of registry changes - here's a guide in case you want to know details. | ||
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wongfeihung
United States763 Posts
Edit: Scratch that. I found the problem. Windows 10 power option was set to Balanced instead of High Performance. | ||
Poopi
France12887 Posts
I linked it to my phone number but it changed in the meantime and I didn't update, everytime I try to use my other gmail account to recover, it asks for a 6digits pin but I get the message: "sorry we can't confirm it's you blabla". I read somewhere it can be up to 40 days o_o. Is there something I can do? | ||
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Supersamu
Germany296 Posts
These are my Libraries on Wine: http://imgur.com/iQ6klV0 The windows-version is Windows XP. It's running under the System-version of wine, whatever that means. Being honest, I don't know much about UNIX, my Brother set the PC and SC2 up. It stopped working a while ago. I googled some and this here is my version of UNIX : Linux Master 4.4.3-1 ARCH #1 PREEMPT x86_64 GNU/Linux (The relevant output if I enter 'uname -a' into the console) Can I solve this problem using Playonlinux? | ||
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Ropid
Germany3557 Posts
Updating is usually a good idea, but it could change stuff that then needs manual intervention to configure. It's a bit risky if you don't know what's going on, meaning you need that brother around that installed it if something stops working completely. If you don't know how updating works in that distro you have there, it should be this on the command line (I'd ask the brother before running it): sudo pacman -Syu | ||
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Epishade
United States2267 Posts
I attached a hard drive to my computer but it has a recovery partition that I wanted to get rid of. I followed the steps from this video to delete it. + Show Spoiler + But now when I want to add the remaining 8gb from the recovery to the main 290gb partition, it doesn't show up for me to add. Only a small 8mb partition shows up for me to add instead, which I assume is something I shouldn't touch or whatever. + Show Spoiler + ![[image loading]](http://i.imgur.com/mqBum2f.png) Any ideas? It's not super important, but it bugs me a little haha. edit: ok nvm, I think it's the "Select the amount of space in mb" thing I need to change. Just sort of confused me as it looks like there's that 9mb unallocated partition and then there's that 7.56gb unallocated partition and I thought I had to select those specifically to add to the main partition. edit 2: eh, I'm gonna backup my files first before I continue. It's asking me about changing basic disk to dynamic disk or whatever, and that 8gb isn't worth losing anything important over for now. Planning to put in a couple more leftover harddrives soon, so I'll probably back up onto those and then try this again. | ||
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Ropid
Germany3557 Posts
There's third-party partition manager tools that can move partitions and can resize them at their start point, not just their end point. There's free ones for Windows (I remember "MiniTool Partition Wizard"), and the one you get on the desktop on Linux installation disks can also do it (named "GParted"). Fiddling with this is somewhat dangerous and could destroy your data. | ||
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Epishade
United States2267 Posts
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Supersamu
Germany296 Posts
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Ghostcom
Denmark4782 Posts
I'm pretty far out of my comfort zone here, so I was hoping I could get some input on what RAID level to go with (1, 5 or 10 seem to be the contenders?) and what the thought-process for picking one over the other would be? 1 seems excessive for the media-part, but perhaps it is possible to place only two discs in raid and then use the other two as raid 0 (I literally have no clue - EDIT2: Wait, this would leave me the same space as RAID 5 right?)? 5 seems to be the highest capacity solution while still having fault-tolerance? (this is what I'm currently leaning towards) 10 seems to be the middle of the road solution? EDIT: I realize this is not going to be a completely secure back-up system on it's own, but I also have an external hard drive which I'll back-up the most crucial data to as well. However, knowing myself, this will be on a bi-weekly to monthly basis at best so to ensure that I can sleep safe at night I would much prefer at least some fault-tolerance for the research. | ||
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Draconicfire
Canada2562 Posts
I didn't change any of my WiFi settings and I'm kind of at a loss as to what I should do. Anyone have any ideas? | ||
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scott31337
United States2979 Posts
Run a traceroute to the IP you have having fault with and run its results in the scanner or post them here. https://us.battle.net/support/en/article/performing-a-traceroute Run the looking glass tool as well - http://us-looking-glass.battle.net/ If the traceroute fails (timed out) on like the first or second "trace path" it's something in your router still blocking it or routing it incorrectly. | ||
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Craton
United States17250 Posts
On August 11 2016 21:37 Ghostcom wrote: I'm about to set up my first NAS (Qnap 453A 4 bay with 4x 3TB WD RED). I'll be primarily using it for media (movies/music), but also as a backup for my research. For the first part I obviously need space and can skimp on the fault-tolerance. However, for the second part I won't need a lot of space (it's mostly documents and figures as the datasets are not kept by me) but at least some fault-tolerance. I'm pretty far out of my comfort zone here, so I was hoping I could get some input on what RAID level to go with (1, 5 or 10 seem to be the contenders?) and what the thought-process for picking one over the other would be? 1 seems excessive for the media-part, but perhaps it is possible to place only two discs in raid and then use the other two as raid 0 (I literally have no clue - EDIT2: Wait, this would leave me the same space as RAID 5 right?)? 5 seems to be the highest capacity solution while still having fault-tolerance? (this is what I'm currently leaning towards) 10 seems to be the middle of the road solution? I'm not really sure if any NAS OS supports having multiple drive clusters. It might be possible, but I haven't dealt with it. If you're planning to have the RAID array just be in your PC (no NAS) then you could have two sets of RAID. My PC does this right now, though it uses the Windows software version and not hardware RAID. Basically the equivalent of two in RAID 0 (gaming) and two in RAID 1 (large storage). Each drive in a RAID 0 increases your chance of losing the entire array, as one failed drive means all of the data is lost. I would highly, highly advise against RAID 0. RAID 10 isn't quite as much of an increase, but still higher than the other flavors. For me, I could lose my entire gaming array without actually losing any data, as it's all files I can re-install (basically game files, but not the save files or settings). First and foremost, you'll probably get bottlenecked by the network transfer speeds before anything; I get about ~80MB/s on large single files on my gigabit NIC, and 20-40MBps for sets of small files. For technical reasons, RAID 1 can be as fast at reading as RAID 0. In a best case performance scenario they're the same. In the worst case scenario it's at single-disk speeds. It'll vary by file. Typically expect it to be slower. RAID 5 will typically be faster than a single drive, but not as fast as RAID 0. RAID 6 is the same way. For small files you do mostly random read/write, while large files you do sequential read/write. In the case of media, those are typically sequential read/write. Sequential read/write is basically the best-case scenario for HDDs. That said, I doubt you'll see any appreciable speed difference working with RAID 0 or 10 given how you're going to use it. Media buffers easily and plays at a consistent rate. In your stated use-cases the speed for writing really won't matter, but basically the more drives a piece of data is getting written to the longer it's going to possibly take to do so. RAID 0 will have one copy of each piece of data, but it'll usually split it across both drives in pieces (stripes). RAID 1 will have two total copies of the data, with both drives having all pieces. RAID 5 will have two copies of the data, but they'll be distributed such that each piece is located in two different drives, but not necessarily the same drives. (Piece 1 might be on disk 1 and 2, piece 2 might be on disk 2 and 3, etc.) RAID 6 will have three copies of the data, distributed like with RAID 5. I'm think RAID 1 has the slowest writes because both drives are writing all of the data, while 5 and 6 are splitting it up more (RAID 6 writes more in total, but usually less per drive). The benefit of RAID 5 and RAID 6 is maximizing your disk space while still having 1 or 2 drive redundancy. In RAID 5 you basically lose one disk worth of space to redundancy, and RAID 6 you lose 2. That means RAID 5 can have one drive totally fail without any data loss, while RAID 6 can lose two drives. The minimum number of disks for RAID 5 is 3, and for RAID 6 is 4. Note that this will prevent drive failure from losing your data, but you can still corrupt your data as normal (i.e. if you send a "bad file" to the NAS, RAID won't have any bearing on it; bad files are still files). RAID 5: If you had 3x 2TB drives, then you'd have 4TB of writable space. 4x 2TB drives you have 6TB writable. In both cases you can lose any one drive and still have all your data intact. RAID 6: 3x TB drives then 2TB of writable. 4x 2TB then 4TB writable. In both cases you can lose any two drives and still have all your data intact. How much redundancy and disk space you want is really up to you. Depending on your NAS software, you may be able to increase the size of the array at a later point in time (i.e. add another storage disk). Decreasing it is usually much more difficult. You'll want to research that if it's a consideration. So all that said, I'd probably recommend RAID 5 with 3 or 4 drives. That gives some fault tolerance, but still maintains a lot of space. Keep in mind that you get a larger percentage of "writable" space the more drives you have in the array. With 3 drives you have 2/3 (67%) writable, with 4 drives it's 3/4 (75%), 5 drives it's 4/5 (80%), etc. EDIT: I realize this is not going to be a completely secure back-up system on it's own, but I also have an external hard drive which I'll back-up the most crucial data to as well. However, knowing myself, this will be on a bi-weekly to monthly basis at best so to ensure that I can sleep safe at night I would much prefer at least some fault-tolerance for the research. Automate your backups. I use SyncToy, but you can use whatever suits you best. It used to be bundled with Windows XP, but now it's a standalone program. It's very simple -- basically you pick a left folder (source), a right folder (destination), and a duplication type. Three duplication types: 1.) Synchronize: mirror everything in both directions; 2.) Echo: mirror from left to right only (not right to left); 3.) Contribute: mirror from left to right only (not right to left), but no deletions are mirrored. And then basically you set up a scheduled task that runs on an interval (mine's daily in early AM) that tells it to run. It'll work with a NAS (you can select a network folder for either left or right), but you need to make sure you're logged in. Basically just try to browser a NAS folder and it'll prompt credentials, which will save until you restart Windows (maybe until logout?). | ||
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Koivusto
Finland542 Posts
Is this a probable a hard drive failure and how could I confirm it? If this is too long and/or generic I can make my own thread. | ||
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OsaX Nymloth
Poland3244 Posts
On August 14 2016 23:31 Koivusto wrote: Starting from today my laptop is failing to start windows. It reboots and reboots until diagnostics is opened up automatically. I cannot perform any automated system repair tools or rewind the system. System restore worked and opened windows but it took only 3 minutes before the boot loop started once again. Laptop has made a strange grinding noise since I opened it and cleaned fans. Is this a probable a hard drive failure and how could I confirm it? If this is too long and/or generic I can make my own thread. Grinding noise and boot failure might indeed lead to HDD failure. Try downloading Hiren's Boot CD or anything similiar - burn it on DVD or prepare a bootable USB drive. Boot your laptop from it (might need to change few things in BIOS like secure boot and CMS/legacy boot) and there you will see few DOS programs to check your HDD. Or Mini Windows XP. Or Linux. Literally anything to check at least SMART attributes and if anything is wrong there, you have your problem. If you need extra help with some of those steps, just ask. | ||
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Koivusto
Finland542 Posts
On August 14 2016 23:49 OsaX Nymloth wrote: Grinding noise and boot failure might indeed lead to HDD failure. Try downloading Hiren's Boot CD or anything similiar - burn it on DVD or prepare a bootable USB drive. Boot your laptop from it (might need to change few things in BIOS like secure boot and CMS/legacy boot) and there you will see few DOS programs to check your HDD. Or Mini Windows XP. Or Linux. Literally anything to check at least SMART attributes and if anything is wrong there, you have your problem. If you need extra help with some of those steps, just ask. Thanks for the quick answer. I was actually able to open windows in safe mode and at least my file structure is still intact. Anyway I can check smart attributes through windows? | ||
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OsaX Nymloth
Poland3244 Posts
On August 15 2016 00:29 Koivusto wrote: Thanks for the quick answer. I was actually able to open windows in safe mode and at least my file structure is still intact. Anyway I can check smart attributes through windows? Crystal Disk OR what I use myself DriveInfo Both have portable versions, CD is a bit more user friendly but doesn't convert HEX values, DI is simple and instantly colours any wrong attributes. | ||
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Deleuze
United Kingdom2102 Posts
I am considering buying a 5Ghz wireless adapter for my PC while I cannot connect through Ethernet and want to know whether it's worth it. Thank you in advance for your help! | ||
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OsaX Nymloth
Poland3244 Posts
On August 15 2016 02:24 Deleuze wrote: Will changing from 2.4Ghz to 5Ghz networks result in a noticeable improvement in online gaming performance? I am considering buying a 5Ghz wireless adapter for my PC while I cannot connect through Ethernet and want to know whether it's worth it. Thank you in advance for your help! I rather doubt it would change much, if anything at all. I'm not specialist, but I think you might see an improvement IF you have a lots of networks around you running a 2.4 GHz, especially if they're on close channels. But better wait for somebody with more knowledge about the topic than me.  | ||
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Deleuze
United Kingdom2102 Posts
On August 15 2016 02:27 OsaX Nymloth wrote: I rather doubt it would change much, if anything at all. I'm not specialist, but I think you might see an improvement IF you have a lots of networks around you running a 2.4 GHz, especially if they're on close channels. But better wait for somebody with more knowledge about the topic than me. Cool, thanks that's really helpful - in a typical neighborhood not too many networks around. If only my landlord would let me drill a hole through the floor I would be a happy man! Any others with advice so say! | ||
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