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When using this resource, please read FragKrag's opening post. The Tech Support forum regulars have helped create countless of desktop systems without any compensation. The least you can do is provide all of the information required for them to help you properly. | ||
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boNStarcraft
Sweden30 Posts
On May 15 2012 19:42 Womwomwom wrote: Yep. Exactly the same. Both will run dual x8 in the PCIe 16x slots with two GPUs in. Okay i think i'll go for MSI Z77A-GD65 though as it's one of the only ones in stock right now. Will that support SLI Gigabyte GTX 670 Windforce? And is that board, PCIe 3? | ||
Womwomwom
5930 Posts
Anyway, yes they will support the GTX670 cards because all you need to run SLI is to have SLI certification (you can find this in the specs) as well as two PCIe 16x slots (the very long slots on the board). PCIe 3.0 is pointless right now but they all should have it anyway. | ||
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iXphobos
Germany1465 Posts
Is it worth spending +15€ on a i5 3550 instead of a 3450? | ||
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boNStarcraft
Sweden30 Posts
On May 15 2012 22:24 Womwomwom wrote: Why not the MSI Z77A-GD55? I think that's in stock too. Anyway, yes they will support the GTX670 cards because all you need to run SLI is to have SLI certification (you can find this in the specs) as well as two PCIe 16x slots (the very long slots on the board). PCIe 3.0 is pointless right now but they all should have it anyway. nvm just saw they got new P8Z77-V's today so i'm probably going with that one  Here is the final build, could you look through it? Ordering in an hour or so. https://www.inet.se/(F(3VhCu-JEtP1GdYbJ4DCEUsOBAQkWNt1lDS2ng-A9kdwOibbOhJDsfg7zznuRJhBVWBeZMOCc2WTXPp30AqxlvJNFX6cQVzAEd2NUSoXI-TAhU2VBl0-KurHxo9XUUEQ-6Ruztv87xE9bJLjsoZM8V5kGg_XoD4agPZKsjM9hAWy3e_0T1yR5xSC392C44V9CfDxtHw2))/kundvagn/visa/1808046/2012-05-15 Cheers! | ||
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iTzSnypah
United States1738 Posts
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Myrmidon
United States9452 Posts
On May 15 2012 23:07 iTzSnypah wrote: no, as a 3450 is just a 3550 with a 100mhz lower clock. It's 200 MHz. That's not a particularly big difference in performance or price. | ||
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boNStarcraft
Sweden30 Posts
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Wabbit
United States1028 Posts
On May 15 2012 23:32 boNStarcraft wrote: Also how big of a difference is it with Push / Pull over just Push wit a H100 exhaust in HAF X Top? I'm sure you can find the answer to this question on a more enthusiast/overclocker-oriented forum like overclock.net - I can almost guarantee there's an H100 club or other threads where people have tried different fan configurations... or a review from some tech site.. | ||
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Womwomwom
5930 Posts
On May 15 2012 23:06 boNStarcraft wrote: nvm just saw they got new P8Z77-V's today so i'm probably going with that one Here is the final build, could you look through it? Ordering in an hour or so. https://www.inet.se/(F(3VhCu-JEtP1GdYbJ4DCEUsOBAQkWNt1lDS2ng-A9kdwOibbOhJDsfg7zznuRJhBVWBeZMOCc2WTXPp30AqxlvJNFX6cQVzAEd2NUSoXI-TAhU2VBl0-KurHxo9XUUEQ-6Ruztv87xE9bJLjsoZM8V5kGg_XoD4agPZKsjM9hAWy3e_0T1yR5xSC392C44V9CfDxtHw2))/kundvagn/visa/1808046/2012-05-15 Cheers! I think its better to get a Crucial M4 128GB SSD instead of the Intel. Still damned good but cheaper: https://www.inet.se/produkt/5315232/crucial-ssd-m4-128gb You could replace the Barracuda with a 2TB Ecogreen. Disk speeds probably won't matter unless you want to load programs off the hard disk (why...you have a SSD?). You don't need to buy another fan. The HAF X has all of them included. The Corsair Cooling Hydro H100 is pointless because it needs fans, a pump, and can't even service GPUs (this is the #1 benefit of DIY watercooling). A Hyper 212 Evo is enough. If you want something better, a Thermalright HR02 Macho is great too. Besides that, it looks fine if you are going into 120hz gaming. A really personal preference would be an Optiarc over that Samsung DVD drive but that doesn't really matter. So you going into 120hz gaming or sticking with 60hz gaming? If you are sticking with 60hz gaming, we can rip through that build and making it tons cheaper. Because you don't need SLI capabilities anymore. | ||
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boNStarcraft
Sweden30 Posts
On May 15 2012 23:39 Womwomwom wrote: I think its better to get a Crucial M4 128GB SSD instead of the Intel. Still damned good but cheaper: https://www.inet.se/produkt/5315232/crucial-ssd-m4-128gb You could replace the Barracuda with a 2TB Ecogreen. Disk speeds probably won't matter unless you want to load programs off the hard disk (why...you have a SSD?). You don't need to buy another fan. The HAF X has all of them included. The Corsair Cooling Hydro H100 is pointless because it needs fans, a pump, and can't even service GPUs (this is the #1 benefit of DIY watercooling). A Hyper 212 Evo is enough. If you want something better, a Thermalright HR02 Macho is great too. Besides that, it looks fine if you are going into 120hz gaming. A really personal preference would be an Optiarc over that Samsung DVD drive but that doesn't really matter. So you going into 120hz gaming or sticking with 60hz gaming? If you are sticking with 60hz gaming, we can rip through that build and making it tons cheaper. Because you don't need SLI capabilities anymore. Well the reason i chose the 7200rpm disk over those ones were because it was only about ~10$ more. Actually the HAF X is missing 1 top fan (200mm). Doesn't fans and the pump etc come with the H100 unit? And for the GPU i guess i have the sidefan of the case + the windforce? ^^ Yea i think i'm going with 120hz, and other than that i'm just buying some expesnsive things right now so i don't have to update very often ^^ Also regarding OCing of the processor, how safe is it? | ||
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Wabbit
United States1028 Posts
On May 15 2012 19:10 merciful wrote:+ Show Spoiler + Hello to all! I'm planning on building a gaming PC with the following parts: ----------------------- mobo ASRock Z77 Extreme4 cpu Intel Core i5-2500K Box ram 8GB-Kit G.Skill Sniper PC3U-12800U CL9-9-9-24 (DDR3U-1600) [compatible with mobo and noctua cooler] gpu Sapphire HD 7850 2GB hdd Crucial m4 SSD - 128 GB - SATA-600 cpu cooler Noctua NH-D14 psu Super-Flower SF550P14XE Golden Green Pro 80plus gold case Cooler Master CM 690 II Advanced ----------------------- I plan to oc the cpu, however I'm not sure about the mobo (perhaps MSI Z77A-G43 as alternative?). Also, is Z77 good enough for (future) cpu upgrades? (ivy) Admittedly gpu is the only not value-for-money part (regarding my budget); I intent to have max-to-ultra settings for my gaming ^^ I also have a second (storage) hdd, so 128gb for Windows 7 (already have it) and 2-3 games are adequate I believe.. All the above cost 928.39euros (or ~$1200) which is my max budget. Any comments are welcomed! thx! Either mobo is fine. Not getting the Ivy Bridge i5 3570K is odd though. Why not take advantage of the (very good) native USB 3.0 of Z77? It won't work with a 2500K. And you don't want to be "upgrading" from (presumably) Sandy Bridge i5 to an Ivy Bridge i5. That would be a huge waste of money for a negligible (~5-10%) performance increase, or maybe even none at all if you get a 2500K which OC's high. Just get a 3570K. By the way, the GPU is not a big not-value-for-the-money part. It's only a HD 7850, not a HD 7970 or GTX 680. Arguably, it's the CPU and mobo and CPU cooler combination which are initially a poor value for the money, seeing as overclocking the CPU will give you exactly 0 frames per second increase in the vast majority of games. Few games benefit from CPU overclocking as much as Starcraft 2, Skyrim, and very few others. Overclocking will be more useful in the future when you can just get ~30% more performance without breaking a sweat or having to replace the motherboard and CPU (which requires operating system re-installation, painful) at the extra cost of aftermarket CPU cooling (and the initial cost of "K" CPU and Z77 vs B75/H77) If I were you and really wanted to get closer to max all games (without regard to "performance per dollar") I'd just skip the CPU cooling for now and buy it in the future (but still get the 3570K and Z77 mobo) and go up to a HD 7870. It's ~20% stronger than a 7850. The rest of your build is okay. Idk if you plan to Crossfire, but if you do and it's 7870's instead of 7850's, you'll want to make sure that PSU has 4x6pin pci-e cables or you're okay with using adapters. And stick with the ASRock board, or get the MSI Z77 G45 not G43, which (correction) can't do crossfireX well (low bandwidth for 2nd slot, and blocked SATA ports). | ||
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Womwomwom
5930 Posts
On May 15 2012 23:49 boNStarcraft wrote: Well the reason i chose the 7200rpm disk over those ones were because it was only about ~10$ more. Actually the HAF X is missing 1 top fan (200mm). Doesn't fans and the pump etc come with the H100 unit? And for the GPU i guess i have the sidefan of the case + the windforce? ^^ Yea i think i'm going with 120hz, and other than that i'm just buying some expesnsive things right now so i don't have to update very often ^^ Also regarding OCing of the processor, how safe is it? You don't need to fill all fans. There is probably little point to it since you have so much airflow anyway. Yes everything comes with the H100 unit. But the point is that its extremely noisy yet doesn't perform a whole lot better than the best tower heatpipe coolers. CPUs don't really need cooling anymore because heatpipe coolers can deal with 100% of the safe overclock range. GPUs benefit from water cooling but the H100 can't cool your GPU. Overclocking is safe if you keep voltages and your overclock within a same region. I'm not sure what Ivy Bridge's safe region is but basically don't go off into the deep end because you are going to kill the transistors within the processor slowly. | ||
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boNStarcraft
Sweden30 Posts
On May 16 2012 00:26 Womwomwom wrote: You don't need to fill all fans. There is probably little point to it since you have so much airflow anyway. Yes everything comes with the H100 unit. But the point is that its extremely noisy yet doesn't perform a whole lot better than the best tower heatpipe coolers. CPUs don't really need cooling anymore because heatpipe coolers can deal with 100% of the safe overclock range. GPUs benefit from water cooling but the H100 can't cool your GPU. Overclocking is safe if you keep voltages and your overclock within a same region. I'm not sure what Ivy Bridge's safe region is but basically don't go off into the deep end because you are going to kill the transistors within the processor slowly. Also about how much would you notice in the real word about the difference in write speed of m4 128gb and intel 520 120gb? (Since m4 got 175/mb and intel 500/mb) Ah okay, would the noise be better if you got custom fans for push/pull? Reason i'm getting on of these is that it seems to put alot less stress on the motherboard compared to those big tower coolers as i will be going to LANs now and then with it ^^ Okay i will try to read up some on overclock then ^^ I'd just like to get it too around ~4,5 or 5ghz max. | ||
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JingleHell
United States11308 Posts
It seems like it would be at least a partial case mod. | ||
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boNStarcraft
Sweden30 Posts
On May 16 2012 00:40 JingleHell wrote: I have to ask... where the hell were you planning to stick an H100 in an HAF X? Is there room for a 120x240mm radiator? It seems like it would be at least a partial case mod. It should fit at the top of the case under the normal 200mm fans if you get longer screws. | ||
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Womwomwom
5930 Posts
On May 16 2012 00:32 boNStarcraft wrote: Also about how much would you notice in the real word about the difference in write speed of m4 128gb and intel 520 120gb? (Since m4 got 175/mb and intel 500/mb) Ah okay, would the noise be better if you got custom fans for push/pull? Reason i'm getting on of these is that it seems to put alot less stress on the motherboard compared to those big tower coolers as i will be going to LANs now and then with it ^^ Okay i will try to read up some on overclock then ^^ I'd just like to get it too around ~4,5 or 5ghz max. 1) Who cares. Read performance is key; write is not. 2) OK fair enough. The system is going to be noisy anyway since the case is filled with holes and fans anyway. 3) 5Ghz is excessive for Ivy Bridge. | ||
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boNStarcraft
Sweden30 Posts
On May 16 2012 01:01 Womwomwom wrote: 1) Who cares. Read performance is key; write is not. 2) OK fair enough. The system is going to be noisy anyway since the case is filled with holes and fans anyway. 3) 5Ghz is excessive for Ivy Bridge. Ah okay Okay, thanks for your help! :D Will be ordering in just a second, just gonna read up some more What would be a good clock for IB? Also is it safe overclocking 670 or should i just keep it at 980base clock? | ||
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Wabbit
United States1028 Posts
On May 16 2012 01:03 boNStarcraft wrote: + Show Spoiler + Okay, thanks for your help! :D Will be ordering in just a second, just gonna read up some more What would be a good clock for IB? Also is it safe overclocking 670 or should i just keep it at 980base clock? Good clock for IB? That is the wrong question to ask. You only need to be worried about keeping voltages in whatever range is considered safe (regardless of what clock speeds you can hit at that voltage) - good luck finding a definitive answer (hint: there isn't one), but some mobo manufacturers may state some conservative numbers, or you'll see the higher numbers marked in Yellow and Red in BIOS to give you a hint that it's getting dangerous. It doesn't really matter all that much. So what if you "only" get a 4.4GHz overclock with a relatively low voltage instead of 4.6 or 4.7, which is pretty high for IB from the reviews I've seen. Another ~5-10% clock speed isn't going to change the world. I wouldn't even bother with a H100 myself. Just get an H80 and run the fan on low for noise concerns. It should easily keep temps down for a safe level overclock. If temps are getting too high, you're using too much VCore. Good way to keep yourself under control. As far as 670's go, Nvidia hasn't unlocked voltage control so whatever maximum overclock is stable should be safe. Voltages are on auto. Edit: on cards with reference PCB's. I haven't yet checked out reviews for non-reference cards. | ||
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boNStarcraft
Sweden30 Posts
On May 16 2012 01:19 Wabbit wrote: Good clock for IB? That is the wrong question to ask. You only need to be worried about keeping voltages in whatever range is considered safe (regardless of what clock speeds you can hit at that voltage) - good luck finding a definitive answer (hint: there isn't one), but some mobo manufacturers may state some conservative numbers, or you'll see the higher numbers marked in Yellow and Red in BIOS to give you a hint that it's getting dangerous. It doesn't really matter all that much. So what if you "only" get a 4.4GHz overclock with a relatively low voltage instead of 4.6 or 4.7, which is pretty high for IB from the reviews I've seen. Another ~5-10% clock speed isn't going to change the world. I wouldn't even bother with a H100 myself. Just get an H80 and run the fan on low for noise concerns. It should easily keep temps down for a safe level overclock. If temps are getting too high, you're using too much VCore. Good way to keep yourself under control. As far as 670's go, Nvidia hasn't unlocked voltage control so whatever maximum overclock is stable should be safe. Voltages are on auto. Edit: on cards with reference PCB's. I haven't yet checked out reviews for non-reference cards. Ah okay, thanks so much! The last part really sounds delightful | ||
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sixdrumquads
United States51 Posts
case/ cpu combo http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.937510 motherboard http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131736 psu http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817171057&Tpk=cooler master rs80080gad3-us (one of my concerns because i dont know what i need, i know gold rated is really efficent though) hard drive http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822136533 graphics card http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130593&Tpk=012-p3-1570-ar cd drive http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827135204 im completely open to other options, possibly some cheaper stuff, im big on games and graphics. i just want stuff that will last and not crap out on me until its completely out dated | ||
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