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Ok so yesterday I went to Fry's and bought the 900 series antec case for 149 and an Apevia 680w PSU for 119. Then I look here on newegg and see these prices.
Case
PSU
I'm definitely taking back the case. And buying this one. (cheaper, MIR, and FREE shipping!). The PSU is the exact same price but is this one better PSU
?
Does newegg offer any kinds of deals when you buy more than 1 thing at once?
Is there any tips you guys have about newegg in general?
Do the MIR's (mail in rebates) work all the time? Me and a few friends have gone 100% with MIR's but my other friend said when he worked for staples they bought a bunch of shit from newegg and hired people to do the MIR's and only like 20% of the rebates came back.
Only thing I ever bought from them was headphones. Which are gosu for 20$ and they shipped real fast.
PS- does anyone know where to get a 19" ++ CRT monitor?
Or a flat screen that is not LCD ?
PSS- I have about 688$ in my bank right now and I'll have another $293 if I return both parts to Fry's. I'm building from the ground up except Harddrives,multicard reader,cd/dvd drives. And soundcard can just be the stock mobo one.
I'm going for top 2nd notch GFX card and top or 2nd notch CPU. everything else just par or above par.
edit-
So far I ordered:
Antec Nine Hundred Black Steel ATX Mid Tower
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811129021
SeaSonic S12-600 ATX12V / EPS12V 600W 100 - 240 V UL, CE, CB, FCC
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16817151025
SAPPHIRE 100186L Radeon X1950XT 256MB 256-bit GDDR3 PCI Express x16 VIVO HDCP
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814102067
OCZ Gold 2GB (2 x 1GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory - Retail
Gold Layered XTC Heatspreader
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820227124
Intel Core 2 Duo E6750 Conroe 2.66GHz 4M shared L2 Cache LGA 775 Processor - Retail
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115029
GIGABYTE GA-P35-DS3R LGA 775 Intel P35 ATX Intel Motherboard - Retail
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128050
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Make sure the computer altogether doesn't top about $700 or so. Any more is really not worth the money. My friend just made a computer for his brother with $500 and it totally wtfpwns his $2K comp :O
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On June 26 2007 15:55 Equinox_kr wrote:
Make sure the computer altogether doesn't top about $700 or so. Any more is really not worth the money. My friend just made a computer for his brother with $500 and it totally wtfpwns his $2K comp :O
I was assuming with every part cost around 100 bucks its gonna be at around $1k. how the hell did you make a good comp with 500$? whats in it?
I'm going to scrap some parts from old comps so even with those I still have to get: Case, PSU, CPU, RAM, Mobo, GFX card.
that alone will be like 700++ conservatively.
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If you plan on spending over 1k, just buy a factory made PC and beef it up with a nice video card and some new memory, it'll run any game you want it too, and its a lot easier.
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I plan on spending around 700$~$800, $1k is my limit.
Why the hell would I wanna buy some company bundled cheap part computer for the same price?
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dont listen to this guys, wait for responses from leet the newb, newbsaibot, or ETT, those guys know for sure what they are talking about.
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On June 26 2007 16:11 mAKiTO wrote:
dont listen to these guys, wait for responses from leet the newb, newbsaibot, or ETT, those guys know for sure what they are talking about.
Yea, I know. I guess nobody is online right now.
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I recommend tomshardware.com. They routinely make really nice pc's, and have some special guides for like under $500 powerhouses.
Edit: Here's a link to a $500 gaming rig guide, but it's old:
http://www.tomshardware.com/2005/10/14/the_/
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Even though I've built many good computers myself at pretty good prices, and am also currently working on a crazy gaming computer for my friend, my advice probably won't stand up to those of PPLZ IN TEH INTARWEBB...
But my my, my friend's $1k computer is looking mighty fine.
Though I still think my 4 year old 10x modified comp can still stand a fighting chance against his new machine.
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On June 26 2007 16:20 bp1696 wrote:I recommend tomshardware.com. They routinely make really nice pc's, and have some special guides for like under $500 powerhouses. Edit: Here's a link to a $500 gaming rig guide, but it's old: http://www.tomshardware.com/2005/10/14/the_/
the old computer i have is better than that thing and I got it in 2004 for around 500.
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Personally I only ever go with Seasonic PSUs as every other one I've had has failed on me, but I did some reading and Apevia does sound good.
I don't know anything about Newegg as they don't ship to Ireland.
As for GPU, the best "bang-for-your-buck" is the Geforce 8800GTS 320MB at the moment. XFX or EVGA probably have the best warranties, and support. If thats too high priced (which in your budget it may be, at $319.99), I'd skip down to a higher end 7xxx series as opposed to the 8600.
CPU wise I'd recommend Intel E6420 as it has the 4mb L2 Cache, and 2.13GHz clockspeed for barely more than the ordinary E6400. Personally its the best processor around currently, in terms of value for money atleast!
Motherboard... well you could save money by not going for some kind of nForce situation if you're not interested in SLi, but most good motherboards these days have it anyway. Just make sure you get one with a FSB that will allow 1:1 ratio with your RAM. The sky is the limit with motherboards really, you don't want a "bad" one, but quality wise most of them are pretty damn good (unless they're like $20, then be wary)
Personally Corsair RAM is the best bet, but OCZ makes some good stuff too. XMS2 isn't too much at the moment, maybe to balance performance with price go for PC2-6400 as opposed to something much faster.
And I know you wanted a CRT or a non-LCD flatpanel, but seriously, take a look at the Samsung 940BF, it has never failed me!
Hope I've been of some assistance, and please, feel free to tell me my advice sucks! (although I won't agree with you)
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On June 26 2007 17:00 sc0rchedst0rm wrote:
Personally I only ever go with Seasonic PSUs as every other one I've had has failed on me, but I did some reading and Apevia does sound good.
I don't know anything about Newegg as they don't ship to Ireland.
As for GPU, the best "bang-for-your-buck" is the Geforce 8800GTS 320MB at the moment. XFX or EVGA probably have the best warranties, and support. If thats too high priced (which in your budget it may be, at $319.99), I'd skip down to a higher end 7xxx series as opposed to the 8600.
CPU wise I'd recommend Intel E6420 as it has the 4mb L2 Cache, and 2.13GHz clockspeed for barely more than the ordinary E6400. Personally its the best processor around currently, in terms of value for money atleast!
Motherboard... well you could save money by not going for some kind of nForce situation if you're not interested in SLi, but most good motherboards these days have it anyway. Just make sure you get one with a FSB that will allow 1:1 ratio with your RAM. The sky is the limit with motherboards really, you don't want a "bad" one, but quality wise most of them are pretty damn good (unless they're like $20, then be wary)
Personally Corsair RAM is the best bet, but OCZ makes some good stuff too. XMS2 isn't too much at the moment, maybe to balance performance with price go for PC2-6400 as opposed to something much faster.
And I know you wanted a CRT or a non-LCD flatpanel, but seriously, take a look at the Samsung 940BF, it has never failed me!
Hope I've been of some assistance, and please, feel free to tell me my advice sucks! (although I won't agree with you)
Thanks for advices, damn that cpu is 186$ on newegg sounds like a lot more than I was expecting (like $150 tops).
I think I was looking to spend around $150 tops on vid card too.
whats the best card out of the 7xxx series?
This card sounds perfect BFG 7950GT 256mb but a little over my price range even with the MIR.
As for Mobos I heard that SLI can't do certain things. What are the different types of Mobos and whats the Pros/Cons of them? How much does a good mobo for the setup you required cost?
I was planning on getting 2x1g ram or 1 x2g (if i need more later).
If that monitor is LCD im not even gonna look into.
Oh yea, and also Whats the deal with video cards. Like whats the difference between the chipsets PNY,BFG,Leadtek,EVGA,XFX,ASUS,ATI, etc etc.
PS-
7300GT 256mb this card sounds like a pretty good deal. What you think?
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if you can wait about a month, intel's making big price cuts on most of their core 2 duos and core 2 quads (except for the extremes, i think).
8800GTS is a great value for its price, but ATI's new 2900 XT is starting to show some promise with its new drivers.
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On June 26 2007 17:34 TheMusiC wrote:
if you can wait about a month, intel's making big price cuts on most of their core 2 duos and core 2 quads (except for the extremes, i think).
8800GTS is a great value for its price, but ATI's new 2900 XT is starting to show some promise with its new drivers.
yea I heard something about that too. You got a source on that? How much are Quad Cores going for ?
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man how is it that my amd athlon 2800+ is just barely worse than these CPUs when its like 4 years old? What ever happened to that 18month tech doubling rule?
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You should not get a 2900xt; considering the drivers.
You play sc right?? well the 2900xt does not support the 640x480.(It's sad but new drivers come out every month you never know)
What I see is that a case the psu and your mobo is very important most mobo has a 4 pin or 6 pin power supply near the top.
Your psu has to reach from the bottom to the top of the motherboard. Its why I dont like that case you chose.
All I have to say if you go with that case be carefull about the psu and motherboad you have I had to get rid of my antec for a Gigabyte 3D Aurora 570 because of the 4 pin power supply wouldn't reach all the way to the top.
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On June 26 2007 17:46 CharlieMurphy wrote:
man how is it that my amd athlon 2800+ is just barely worse than these CPUs when its like 4 years old? What ever happened to that 18month tech doubling rule?
lol
if you're looking only at clockspeeds, you're horribly wrong
the top half of the C2D line completely destroys pretty much most of what AMD has to offer.
AMD's new line of processors isn't showing that much promise either, but their initial benchmarks weren't done at full clockspeeds.
and intel is supposed to release a new line of 45nm quad-core processors at the end of this year, topping 3.33 ghz with insane performance, but you probably won't want to wait that long.
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yea, ok. but what I'm suggesting is 680w PSU overkill?
What cards are cheap that support DX10 ? Sc2 might require Dx10, They aren't sure yet. I don't wanna have to buy a new card when it comes out.
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Izzy I know you're trying to help but I'm really not taking any of your advice seriously.
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make an account at gotfrag.com
go to their hardware section make a post about what you want, they have aLOOOOOOt of experienced computer users
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but i'd wait it out before you get a good dx10 card, just get a 7600gt to hold you over until then, that card with 2gb ram and a decent processor flies through any game and its like 75 with rebates.
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Dell computers around $700 includes
Intel Core 2 Duo 6420
22" Widescreen LCD
Windows Vista Home Premium or Windows XP
16x DVD+/-RW Drive
250GB Serial ATA Hard Drive
56k modem
1 GB RAM
Ram & HDD is cheap to upgrade.
Their system and case is quiet.
I use to built my own system, but the Dell systems I have now overall are great.
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Without running Crossfire or SLI, you probably don't need more than a 500W PSU. Antec and Enermax are really good. I've always gotten my rebates from Newegg (though most were through the manufacturer). If you're not getting a DX10 vid card, I'd get somethin under $100 like a 7600GS or something, then when a good value DX10 card comes along get one of those.
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On June 26 2007 18:07 [X]Ken~D wrote:
Dell computers around $700 includes
Intel Core 2 Duo 6420
22" Widescreen LCD
Windows Vista Home Premium or Windows XP
16x DVD+/-RW Drive
250GB Serial ATA Hard Drive
56k modem
1 GB RAM
Ram & HDD is cheap to upgrade.
Their system and case is quiet.
I use to built my own system, the Dell systems overall are great.
dell tends to rip you off im sorry but this is true dell does this alot they make system with only enouhg power to run what they put in there and if you add anything say like more ram the system wont run right or at all also most likely you can buy those parts seperatly for half the price their lcd sreens are really good though but dell is a rip off in general cheep parts create choke points in your computer where the performance is caped these are usualy the mobo ram and cpu so those are ususaly the most important parts to buy the 8600gt and the 7900 are both solid gpu cards if your holding out for cheeper dx10 cards that can perform
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1. I've gotten pretty much every rebate successfully redeemed in the last like 2 years.
2. That PSU looks like it's from a POS manufacturer. Get a quality power supply like a 500W Fortron, Seasonic, or Silverstone, just to name a few.
3. If you want a CRT, check around locally. I just got a flat screen unopened 17" eMachines CRT for $10. Best of all, you don't need to pay to ship a monster monitor.
4. Get either a 2900XT or 8800GTS. Those are great buys at the moment. The 2900XT is still kinda new, so not too much info is known about it. It seems pretty good in the benchmarks that have been released though, especially for the price.
PS: Don't listen to Izzycraft, he/she has pretty much no idea what he's talking about.
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The Core 2 Duo E6600 "Conroe" processor has recently dropped in price. It's the "sweet spot" balance between price/performance right now.
I've read a lot of conflicting reports concerning chipsets for Core 2 Duo-supporting motherboards. I played it safe with an intel chipset, but the RAID capabilities are piss-poor, so I had to get an expansion card to do my bidding.. Also, before you pick out parts, it's important (!!!!) to know if you are gonna install linux. I n00bed out here, and I had to wait until the open source community developed fixes for known bugs in driver software. I'm actually still waiting (just don't feel comfortable with buggy middleware controlling my data platters, I guess Im crazy), so I've got no linux on there for now.. but Windows XP screams!
Also, what kind of hard drive configuration were you leaning towards? Single drive? RAID? I also highly recommend getting a motherboard with PATA, as some manufactures still spit out PATA devices. For example, I grabbed a great DVD burner for $20, but the analogous SATA version from the same manufacturer costs $50. I'd rather put $30 into quietter fans than trusting an optical drive to last more than a year or two, so I wouldn't worry about future-proofing by going 100% SATA as of right now.
edit: I've been burned on a rebate only once, and it was a no-name on a CD-R bundle. Generally, if you follow all the instructions, you get your rebate. I never shy from MIRs
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On June 26 2007 15:59 .kaz wrote:
If you plan on spending over 1k, just buy a factory made PC and beef it up with a nice video card and some new memory, it'll run any game you want it too, and its a lot easier.
This is a good way to get horrible crap components(mobo, hard drives) and build a real shitbox of a pc. If you KNOW how to build a pc, there is no reason to pay for anything premade. Just get all components and assemble like voltron~
Just in my opinion of course; ] I know it would be easier to do it that way, but it really isnt hard to assemble a pc to begin with after your first time(which can be pretty daunting though).
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On June 26 2007 19:10 teh leet newb wrote:
1. I've gotten pretty much every rebate successfully redeemed in the last like 2 years.
2. That PSU looks like it's from a POS manufacturer. Get a quality power supply like a 500W Fortron, Seasonic, or Silverstone, just to name a few.
3. If you want a CRT, check around locally. I just got a flat screen unopened 17" eMachines CRT for $10. Best of all, you don't need to pay to ship a monster monitor.
4. Get either a 2900XT or 8800GTS. Those are great buys at the moment. The 2900XT is still kinda new, so not too much info is known about it. It seems pretty good in the benchmarks that have been released though, especially for the price.
PS: Don't listen to Izzycraft, he/she has pretty much no idea what he's talking about.
POS? piece of shit? No I got quality advice from a customer at Fry's about that PSU and he actually bought the same one. I heard Antec and Thermaltake were the better Manufactureers for PSUs. He was saying shit about voltage being and important thing as much as the Wattage.
I have a 17" crt , its too small expecially when I get my leet setup all together.
8800gts is what like 300$ ? thats way over my limit.
Whats the deal with video cards? Like whats the difference between the chipsets PNY,BFG,Leadtek,EVGA,XFX,ASUS,ATI, etc etc.
Which ones are good and which ones are bad?
IS any other hardware supposed to drop in price besides the CPUs soon?
asfaik these are best:
INTEL > AMD
ATI = Geforce EVGA,nvidia GFX cards
MOBO?
Maxtor,seagate,raptor HDs
antec,thermaltake PSUs
Corsair,OCZ RAM
Why or Why Aren't these good or better than others?
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2. That PSU looks like it's from a POS manufacturer. Get a quality power supply like a 500W Fortron, Seasonic, or Silverstone, just to name a few.
Listen to the man on that, he knows. Antec and Thermaltake have great cases, PSUs are just 'good'. And voltage > wattage (importance-wise).
PNY, BFG, Leadtek and so on aren't chipset names. They provide solutions (read products) that incorporate similar chipsets provided by nVidia or ATI (basically the only two competitors in the video card market atm). Taking the 8800 series from nVidia as an example, cards offered by names like Leadtek and XFX use that reference chipset and modify it as necessary. That's where the extensions come in (i.e. GTS, GTX, XT, XTX, w/e), they can be used to determine whether that card uses a 'lite' or 'extreme' version of the same chipset. Prices are a way to compare, but not always.
Intel > AMD indeed, at least for now
ATI <> nVidia - no idea about the latest ATI series, the 2900
I usually go with Asus for mobos, please post if you have better ideas, I'm planning on buying a new rig in a while
Seagate bought Maxtor about 6 months ago and made it their 'low-end' division. Cheaper, less durable hdds, basically. Raptor is the market name for Western Digital's 10k rpm line, afaik
PSUs - read above
I used to prefer Corsair RAM, heard OCZ is great, no DDR DIMM I've ever used failed on me so far, don't really care about 'squeezing the last drop of performance' out of stuff. Experts, please advise.
Edit: Oh yeah, and I was gonna tell you not to listen to IzzyCraft, but teh leet newb beat me to it.
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I've heard that Asus is not that good compared to gigabit or abit. Whats the differences?
As it stands now I'm agreeing with that because my 3 1/2 year old comp is an ASUS mobo and it died last year. I've yet to replace it.
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asus is superior to abit IMO, maybe slightly above gigabyte. MSI also makes quality mobos. a lot of this depends on the chipset too (p35, 680i, p965, etc etc). don't know much about the other brands, although all the DFI boards look incredibly stupid. oh, and some boards have better overclocking capabilities than others, so read up before you buy.
as far as ram goes, there're a lot of companies that put quality products out. corsair, ocz, crucial, patriot, mushkin, super talent are the main contenders here. again what memory you buy should depend on whether or not you plan to overclock, as some sticks overclock better than others. sometimes you'll have to go into the BIOS to manually set ram speeds/frequencies/voltages, as some mobos will auto-detect and default the memory to speeds much much lower than what they're listed at.
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On June 26 2007 22:21 CharlieMurphy wrote:
I've heard that Asus is not that good compared to gigabit or abit. Whats the differences?
As it stands now I'm agreeing with that because my 3 1/2 year old comp is an ASUS mobo and it died last year. I've yet to replace it.
To choose a motherboard, you have to choose a chipset.
It's not linear; the answer will be different depending on your needs (like mentioned previously, gonna install Linux or no?, etc). P965 chipset is economical, and Intel claims it has the best Core 2 Duo support. Their 975 chipset, though older, performs better in many benchmarks with Core 2 processors than the P965. The nVidia offerings (650i, 680i) are expensive and good performers, but not the best option for you. I'm not familiar with the other chipsets right now.
I'm running with the P965 on a Gigabyte mobo, currently. It's fine except for the Linux caveat I mentioned earlier (which is probably resolved already).
ps - I use ASUS boards often as possible; by far the least failure rate, in my experience. They had many offerings with the 975X chipset a couple months ago in the $200-$250 range on newegg. Gigabyte had a bunch of P965 boards for ~$100, and they're a very good brand, too.
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Hmm... I would agree with whats been said, 7600GT might be the way for you to go.
I'm not too familiar with Motherboards... personally I try to use a reputable brand, and then just look for features. For example, I got the XFX 680i Lite mobo to match my XFX GPU, and because it has 2 full speed 16x PCI-Es, but thats out of your budget. If you're atall interested in overclocking, be sure to get a mobo with multipliers and voltage settings unlocked. My buddy made the mistake of buying a cheap board and then found his multiplier was locked at below 7x, so he can't even get the full speed out of his CPU.
I would suggest 680W is WAY more than you need now I think about it. For me, my electricity bill (the great leveler) constrains me to about 500W considering how much I use my PC. Seasonic M12 has 4 12v rails and good wattage, and modular cables, so it's pretty much guaranteed solid. Don't know about price, might again be out of your budget. Whatever happens DON'T fall into the trap of thinking a PSU is a PSU is a PSU. They can make a HUGE difference to stability, performance, etc. Maybe try S12-E or just basic S12 (I'm a Seasonic fan so I don't know much about other brands)
If the E6600 is dropping in price that'd be the new "best-value" but it'd still probs be out of your budget. If you don't mind dropping 300MHz you could look at E6320 instead of E6420.
OCZ Gold or Platinum, or Corsair XMS2 would definatly be the way to go, like I already said. DON'T go for a single 2GB stick. Always match up pairs of similar sticks.
Raptors HDDs are unbelievable in RAID, or even single. But they're smaller storage for greater cost. If you're really budget constrained you might be better going cheaper HDD and putting more money towards GPU or CPU.
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core 2 duo 6600
320mb GTS
2gig of pc6400 ram (ocz,corsair)
Corsair 520hx powersupply, easily the most priceworthy top of the line powersupply on the market right now. 520w is plenty for pretty much all builds except those with 2 gfx cards.
by the way, 7600gt is a shitty card. Not worth getting unless you got like a P4 or something.
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I totally agree with that build FatRine (I'm actualy using almost exactly that at the moment, except with a E6420).
However I think budget is contraining 320 GTS and the E6600, so corners must be cut. 7600GT isn't "super" by any means, but it will allow mediumish settings on many games (probably not Crisis or such like), but it IS cheap, and when you have to stay under $1000 an 8800 GTS can be pushing the boat out a bit.
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On June 27 2007 08:28 dragoon wrote:
cyberpowerpc.com
those comps are great deal but like I said, I'd rather buy my own. Besides they have sub par components cpu is core 2 duo 6320 and I don't need every part as I can scrap from old comp.
I plan to continue using XP, MAYBEconvert to Vista next year if it improves. Right now though I see no need for vista, basically it just looks like its trying to be all flashy to compete with the MAC market.
Mostly be using the computer for Games (wow,sc2,q4,UT2k7?, and older games like sc.),DVD/CD ripping/burning, video recording/editing, fruity loops stuff, photoshop stuff, etc.
not really sure how to read this chart, but I was thinking maybe the E6600 or the E6420 sounds good. I don't plan to overclock anything as I have never done it nor do I know anyone who does.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115003
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115016
Also, I've never built a PC up but I've installed many parts and taken parts out etc. The only things I haven't messed with is MOBOs, CPUs, and PSUs, anything or tips I should know about building?
So if I go with one of the 7950GT geforce, what Manufacturer should I go for?
BFG 7950GT thats the only one i see on newegg.
This card is much cheaper than those and its higher number, is that better?
XFX 8600 GT
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On June 26 2007 21:56 CharlieMurphy wrote:Show nested quote +On June 26 2007 19:10 teh leet newb wrote:
1. I've gotten pretty much every rebate successfully redeemed in the last like 2 years.
2. That PSU looks like it's from a POS manufacturer. Get a quality power supply like a 500W Fortron, Seasonic, or Silverstone, just to name a few.
3. If you want a CRT, check around locally. I just got a flat screen unopened 17" eMachines CRT for $10. Best of all, you don't need to pay to ship a monster monitor.
4. Get either a 2900XT or 8800GTS. Those are great buys at the moment. The 2900XT is still kinda new, so not too much info is known about it. It seems pretty good in the benchmarks that have been released though, especially for the price.
PS: Don't listen to Izzycraft, he/she has pretty much no idea what he's talking about. POS? piece of shit? No I got quality advice from a customer at Fry's about that PSU and he actually bought the same one. I heard Antec and Thermaltake were the better Manufactureers for PSUs. He was saying shit about voltage being and important thing as much as the Wattage.
That guy has no idea what he's talking about either. The logo for that POS brand of PSU looks a lot like Aspire, which is a crappy nonname PSU brand. Wattage is only a small measure of performance and quality. They could have came up with that "680W" at an operating temperature of like 30 Celcius. As temperature increases, power decreases. Voltage is always constant and has nothing to do with performance. Quality PSU manufacturers test their power supplies at higher temperatures like 40-50C. What's even more important than wattage is the amps on the +12V rail, which the computer draws almost all of its power from. If you're going for something like a 2900XT or 8800GTS, you'll probably want at least like 32A on the +12V rail.
Oh, and for the processor, get an E6540 and overclock it.
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On June 26 2007 18:13 IzzyCraft wrote:
dell tends to rip you off im sorry but this is true most likely you can buy those parts seperatly for half the price their lcd sreens are really good though but dell is a rip off in general cheep parts create choke points in your computer where the performance is caped these are usualy the mobo ram and cpu so those are ususaly the most important parts to buy the 7600gt and the 7900 are both solid gpu cards if your holding out for cheeper dx10 cards that can perform
i disagree dell is usually a good value because they can buy their parts in bulk the parts are not cheep they are actually quite reliable however they do somewhat limit your tweaking potential if you are an enthusiast however the cheeper prices from dell especially during sales is more than enough to compensate for the limitations in overclocking especially since overclocking doesn't really add much real world performance anyways
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Teh leet noob definatly knows what he's talking about anyway, my stamp of approval! (not that that counts for anything. Hell in some places thats a bad thing)
Dell BTX pattern cases make me sad.
You don't know what you're talking about if you say overclocking doesn't add "real world performance" I have my GPU and my CPU overclocked and trust me, its MUCH better than stock.
Like I said, Seasonic M12s can offer as much as 40A across the 4 12V rails. Everyone should own a Seasonic. Although the Corsair PSUs are pretty damn good from what I've seen.
EDIT: Just had a proper look at that chart... looks like I might be upgrading CPU soon! Do NOT buy the Geforce 8600. My buddy did and its a total POS.
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Yup, Corsairs are great. They're rebranded Seasonics 
Haha, I had 1394 posts. Pretty fitting for a computer thread.
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I told you I don't know how to overclock shit and I don't plan to. Whats the point, this shit runs good enough already anyways for what I wanna do with my comp right?
as far as the PSU I bought isn't this good?:
+ Show Spoiler +
Model
Brand APEVIA
Model ATX-IB680W-BL
Series ICEBERG
SPEC
Type ATX12V / EPS12V
Maximum Power 680W
Fans 2
PFC No
Main Connector 20+4Pin
Dual +12V Yes
PCI-E Connectors 2 x 6Pin
SLI Support Yes
Modular Cabling Support No
Power Good Signal 100-500ms
Hold-up Time >10ms at full load
Efficiency > 70%
Over Voltage Protection Yes
Overload Protection Yes
Input Voltage 115/230 V
Input Frequency Range 50/60 Hz
Input Current 10A @ 115V, 5A @ 230V
Output +3.3V@38A, +5V@40A, +12V1@22A, +12V2@24A, -5V@0.3A, -12V@0.8A, +5VSB@2A
MTBF 100,000 Hours at full load
Approvals CB IEC 950, TUV EN 60950, UL 1950, CSA 950
Features
Connectors 1 x Main Connector (20+4 pin)
1 x 12V P4 / P8 (4/8 pin)
8 x Peripheral
4 x SATA
2 x Floppy
2 x PCI Express
Features High-tech aluminum casting with fire-resistant acrylic cover
LED light switch - Fan LED lights can be switched to blue, green or red
Multi-color coated components & PC board
Excellent Ventilation Design: 2 x 80 mm crystal LED fans
User-adjustable fan speed controller optimizing balance between noise reduction and necessary cooling
Cable Management: all cables are sleeved to avoid clutter and to improve airflow
UV Sensitive On/Off Power Switch, Power Plug and connectors
Short circuit / over voltage / over current protection
Manufacturer Warranty
Parts 1 year limited
Labor 1 year limited
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817148028
oh shit just realized this is cheaper than what I bought at the store after rebate.
PS- teh leet newb it doesn't seem like your even reading my posts. I said I don't plan to OC, don't wanna buy that crazy of a video card. I said I wanna spend around $150-200 for GPU and $150-200 for CPU. It feels to me like your just quoting what other people say is the best of the best instead of helping me find the best for my price range.
Is my PSU overkill for the 7950gt and a 6420/6600 core 2 duo?
PPS- What was wrong with the 8600GT ??
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I am sorry I did not see this this topic. It is hard to squeeze good dx 10 card within that budged. You have to make compromises. You will not benefit much from better processor, but you will from better graphic card.
Intel C2D E4300 - 120$
Gigabyte GA-965P-DS3 - 120$
2x1gb ram DDR2 800 MHz - 100$
8800 GTS 320 mb - 300$
good power supply is around 120$
That is around 760$, but you still have to buy monitor right? With 1000$ budget you can spend 130-150$ on good 17" or if you can find 19" crt. Does it have to be 19"? 90$ is left, and you can spend it for case. Any real and by real I mean quality 400-500W (chieftec, antec,) psu is enough for all of your needs.
As for graphic cards manufacturers goes, the cards and performances (if they are not stock overclocked) are the same. Go with the one that offers the most warranty. You could save few bucks here and there, and for that you could buy better processor.
8600 sucks because it is 128 bit card, and very slow. It does support dx 10, but that card is not for gaming.
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On June 28 2007 06:07 Red_Dragon wrote:
You will not benefit much from better processor, but you will from better graphic card.
Intel C2D E4300 - 120$
Gigabyte GA-965P-DS3 - 120$
2x1gb ram DDR2 800 MHz - 100$
8800 GTS 320 mb - 300$
good power supply is around 120$
QFT.
Assuming that the PC is mainly for gaming than for hardcore encoding then the E4300 is more than enough. The videocard is usually the bottleneck for games, not processor.
With the money saved from not buying a higher processor, put that extra cash into a better videocard like the 8800 GTS monster. It's future proof with its DX10 features & is a powerful card.
EDIT: Starcraft 2 is mentioned it might contain DX10 features.
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On June 27 2007 23:28 CharlieMurphy wrote:I told you I don't know how to overclock shit and I don't plan to. Whats the point, this shit runs good enough already anyways for what I wanna do with my comp right? as far as the PSU I bought isn't this good?: + Show Spoiler +
Model
Brand APEVIA
Model ATX-IB680W-BL
Series ICEBERG
SPEC
Type ATX12V / EPS12V
Maximum Power 680W
Fans 2
PFC No
Main Connector 20+4Pin
Dual +12V Yes
PCI-E Connectors 2 x 6Pin
SLI Support Yes
Modular Cabling Support No
Power Good Signal 100-500ms
Hold-up Time >10ms at full load
Efficiency > 70%
Over Voltage Protection Yes
Overload Protection Yes
Input Voltage 115/230 V
Input Frequency Range 50/60 Hz
Input Current 10A @ 115V, 5A @ 230V
Output +3.3V@38A, +5V@40A, +12V1@22A, +12V2@24A, -5V@0.3A, -12V@0.8A, +5VSB@2A
MTBF 100,000 Hours at full load
Approvals CB IEC 950, TUV EN 60950, UL 1950, CSA 950
Features
Connectors 1 x Main Connector (20+4 pin)
1 x 12V P4 / P8 (4/8 pin)
8 x Peripheral
4 x SATA
2 x Floppy
2 x PCI Express
Features High-tech aluminum casting with fire-resistant acrylic cover
LED light switch - Fan LED lights can be switched to blue, green or red
Multi-color coated components & PC board
Excellent Ventilation Design: 2 x 80 mm crystal LED fans
User-adjustable fan speed controller optimizing balance between noise reduction and necessary cooling
Cable Management: all cables are sleeved to avoid clutter and to improve airflow
UV Sensitive On/Off Power Switch, Power Plug and connectors
Short circuit / over voltage / over current protection
Manufacturer Warranty
Parts 1 year limited
Labor 1 year limited
oh shit just realized this is cheaper than what I bought at the store after rebate. PS- teh leet newb it doesn't seem like your even reading my posts. I said I don't plan to OC, don't wanna buy that crazy of a video card. I said I wanna spend around $150-200 for GPU and $150-200 for CPU. It feels to me like your just quoting what other people say is the best of the best instead of helping me find the best for my price range. Is my PSU overkill for the 7950gt and a 6420/6600 core 2 duo? PPS- What was wrong with the 8600GT ??
Sorry, I was kinda just skimming stuff because there were a lot of posts. But what I said about the PSU is crucial. Any knowledgeable computer person can tell you that PSU sucks. "Apevia" is a noname brand (used to be Aspire, which totally sucked). Brand name is far more important than advertised wattage. If you read my post, you would see that "680W" could probably only mean around 400W in a normal operating environment. They probably also use bad capacitors, increasing the chance of failure. Here's a list of power supplies to avoid, and Aspire/Apevia is one of the worst:
http://www.hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=974240
Read this to understand why rated wattage means crap:
http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=779582
Go with a solid and reputable manufacturer like FSP, Seasonic, OCZ, Tagan, etc. Antec used to be good, but now their quality is slipping a bit, so the Seasonic Antecs are still great, but the rest are about a tier lower. Still not bad, but not the best either. But whatever you do, just ditch that PSU. It'll only give you trouble in the future.
Okay, now for the GPU. I have this:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16814102067
It's a great card, and at only $150 AR, it gives you an excellent bang for your buck. It beats the 7950GT and costs less. The only downside is that the fan is really loud. I have it turned up to max because loudness doesn't bother me (I always have music blasted). It overclocks pretty well, and I got mine up to XTX speeds, but if you don't want to bother with overclocking, whatever.
Overclocking is an incredibly easy way to save money. It takes barely any time, and it's a free performance boost. You can get an E6540 past 3ghz pretty easily.
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Now we're talking. Thanks Newb, I will return the PSU can you recommend one in particular thats $100~ ?
that PSU avoidance thread is 2 years old, is it still valid?
That other thread is freaking huge. I read the first post, understood about 40% of it.
How do you overclock shit? what are the risks? Does the product lifespan decrease when overclocked?
PS- what system do you have, and how much was each part? Oh and how long have you had it (like, any problems)?
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Is this even good?
+ Show Spoiler +
Model
Brand CORSAIR
Model CMPSU-520HX
SPEC
Type ATX12V v2.2 and EPS12V 2.91
Maximum Power 520W
Fans 1 x 120mm ball-bearing fan
PFC Active
Main Connector 20+4Pin
Dual +12V Yes
PCI-E Connectors 2 x 6Pin
SLI Support SLI Certified
Modular Cabling Support Yes
Over Voltage Protection Yes
Input Voltage 100 - 240 V
Input Frequency Range 50/60 Hz
Input Current 9A
Output +3.3@24A,+5V@24A,+12V1@18A,+12V2@18A,+12V3@18A,- 12V@0.8A,+5VSB@3A
MTBF >100,000 Hours
Approvals UL, CUL, CE, CB, FCC Class B, TUV, CCC, C-tick
Features
Connectors 1 x 20+4-pin ATX
1 x 4-pin +12V
1 x 8-pin EPS12V
2 x PCI-Express
8 x 4-pin peripheral
2 x 4-pin floppy
4 x SATA
Features Corsair has engineered the HX520W with features such as whisper quiet thermally controlled 120mm fan, up to 84% high efficiency, combined 40A on triple +12V rails, and modular cable connections with enhanced flexible cables to provide sustained 520W output even at 50ºC to the most demanding of systems.
The HX Series is the ideal power for high performance and gaming PCs, Audio/Video workstations, and file servers.
Manufacturer Warranty
Parts 5 years limited
only 18 amps on the 3 12v rails is that good?
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I used to think Asus made the best mobo's and I've built 4 machines with Asus boards. But I've given up on them now after getting THREE bad P5B boards in a row. First one only had 1 good USB port, second one would only power on if you hit the switch 50 times and it had to be plugged in for 15 minutes, and the third one won't power on at all. I just ordered a Gigabyte P35 something board which should be here soon.
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Does newegg offer any bonus deals when I order many parts at once?
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On June 28 2007 07:40 [X]Ken~D wrote:Show nested quote +On June 28 2007 06:07 Red_Dragon wrote:
You will not benefit much from better processor, but you will from better graphic card.
Intel C2D E4300 - 120$
Gigabyte GA-965P-DS3 - 120$
2x1gb ram DDR2 800 MHz - 100$
8800 GTS 320 mb - 300$
good power supply is around 120$
QFT. Assuming that the PC is mainly for gaming than for hardcore encoding then the E4300 is more than enough. The videocard is usually the bottleneck for games, not processor. With the money saved from not buying a higher processor, put that extra cash into a better videocard like the 8800 GTS monster. It's future proof with its DX10 features & is a powerful card. EDIT: Starcraft 2 is mentioned it might contain DX10 features.
no such thing as future proof in the computer industry every 2 years you can buy something for half the price that is 2x as power as the 8800gts either you upgrade constantly or making big changes every once and awhile
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On June 28 2007 16:14 CharlieMurphy wrote:
Does newegg offer any bonus deals when I order many parts at once?
if you order parts when buying your case and monitor buy them sepereatly at 3 day and you can buy the smaller parts like cpu and crap and ship then with next day bull for alot cheep and newegg doesnt offer any bonus deals when you order alot of stuff at once
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On June 28 2007 15:16 CharlieMurphy wrote:
Now we're talking. Thanks Newb, I will return the PSU can you recommend one in particular thats $100~ ?
that PSU avoidance thread is 2 years old, is it still valid?
That other thread is freaking huge. I read the first post, understood about 40% of it.
How do you overclock shit? what are the risks? Does the product lifespan decrease when overclocked?
PS- what system do you have, and how much was each part? Oh and how long have you had it (like, any problems)?
Overclocking varies you either change the multiplier or the front side bus when your talking about a cpu and chances are scence you are budget comp your cpu's fsb is forzen and you can only change the multiplier you do this though the bois or some programs you can find over clocking is raiseing the external frequency that is heading into the cpu you have to eventaly raise the voltage of what every your overclocking to incrase stablity but this also incrases heat the dangers of overclocking is that the added heat and if you do it poorly you will end up damageing it and most suppliers wont take a returns of crap that they know you f-ed up and yes a product life span does decrese because of added strain on it also when you over clock something dont be a moron check performances after words if you on a budget chances are your computer has chokes where incrseing crap doesnt change its performance
im not even gonna tell you have i have cause i own 2 comps both very expensive one is ati and the other is nvidia and intel is pretty much the way to go but ona budget you have to look at cpu charts and reviews to tell intel does have a better overclock ablitiy then amd in their dual core areas oh yeah im not a noob i own a 2900xt and it drivers are so f-ed up now of days porably because its so new that it does support the lower screen resolutions also dont get a 8600 it is cheep but its not a gaming card is one desigend mostly for hmdi use and is not desgen as a gaming gpu but as a media one
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On June 28 2007 09:24 teh leet newb wrote:Show nested quote +On June 27 2007 23:28 CharlieMurphy wrote:I told you I don't know how to overclock shit and I don't plan to. Whats the point, this shit runs good enough already anyways for what I wanna do with my comp right? as far as the PSU I bought isn't this good?: + Show Spoiler +
Model
Brand APEVIA
Model ATX-IB680W-BL
Series ICEBERG
SPEC
Type ATX12V / EPS12V
Maximum Power 680W
Fans 2
PFC No
Main Connector 20+4Pin
Dual +12V Yes
PCI-E Connectors 2 x 6Pin
SLI Support Yes
Modular Cabling Support No
Power Good Signal 100-500ms
Hold-up Time >10ms at full load
Efficiency > 70%
Over Voltage Protection Yes
Overload Protection Yes
Input Voltage 115/230 V
Input Frequency Range 50/60 Hz
Input Current 10A @ 115V, 5A @ 230V
Output +3.3V@38A, +5V@40A, +12V1@22A, +12V2@24A, -5V@0.3A, -12V@0.8A, +5VSB@2A
MTBF 100,000 Hours at full load
Approvals CB IEC 950, TUV EN 60950, UL 1950, CSA 950
Features
Connectors 1 x Main Connector (20+4 pin)
1 x 12V P4 / P8 (4/8 pin)
8 x Peripheral
4 x SATA
2 x Floppy
2 x PCI Express
Features High-tech aluminum casting with fire-resistant acrylic cover
LED light switch - Fan LED lights can be switched to blue, green or red
Multi-color coated components & PC board
Excellent Ventilation Design: 2 x 80 mm crystal LED fans
User-adjustable fan speed controller optimizing balance between noise reduction and necessary cooling
Cable Management: all cables are sleeved to avoid clutter and to improve airflow
UV Sensitive On/Off Power Switch, Power Plug and connectors
Short circuit / over voltage / over current protection
Manufacturer Warranty
Parts 1 year limited
Labor 1 year limited
oh shit just realized this is cheaper than what I bought at the store after rebate. PS- teh leet newb it doesn't seem like your even reading my posts. I said I don't plan to OC, don't wanna buy that crazy of a video card. I said I wanna spend around $150-200 for GPU and $150-200 for CPU. It feels to me like your just quoting what other people say is the best of the best instead of helping me find the best for my price range. Is my PSU overkill for the 7950gt and a 6420/6600 core 2 duo? PPS- What was wrong with the 8600GT ?? Sorry, I was kinda just skimming stuff because there were a lot of posts. But what I said about the PSU is crucial. Any knowledgeable computer person can tell you that PSU sucks. "Apevia" is a noname brand (used to be Aspire, which totally sucked). Brand name is far more important than advertised wattage. If you read my post, you would see that "680W" could probably only mean around 400W in a normal operating environment. They probably also use bad capacitors, increasing the chance of failure. Here's a list of power supplies to avoid, and Aspire/Apevia is one of the worst: http://www.hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=974240Read this to understand why rated wattage means crap: http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=779582Go with a solid and reputable manufacturer like FSP, Seasonic, OCZ, Tagan, etc. Antec used to be good, but now their quality is slipping a bit, so the Seasonic Antecs are still great, but the rest are about a tier lower. Still not bad, but not the best either. But whatever you do, just ditch that PSU. It'll only give you trouble in the future. Okay, now for the GPU. I have this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16814102067It's a great card, and at only $150 AR, it gives you an excellent bang for your buck. It beats the 7950GT and costs less. The only downside is that the fan is really loud. I have it turned up to max because loudness doesn't bother me (I always have music blasted). It overclocks pretty well, and I got mine up to XTX speeds, but if you don't want to bother with overclocking, whatever. Overclocking is an incredibly easy way to save money. It takes barely any time, and it's a free performance boost. You can get an E6540 past 3ghz pretty easily.
teh leet noob is right the gpu he is showing performs wonderfully and is a better buy then a 7950gt as far as psu goes i stick to pc power and cooling cause so far i have no gotten 1 psu that burnt out in a month watts does mean crap but not total crap you do need a certain amount of watts to supply your computer with power but watts means crap when talking about a gpu rails its all about apms there
here is a basic list of bang for your buck in pcie gameing graphic cards
Best PCIe Card For Under $100:
GeForce 7300 GT DDR2
Best PCIe Card For ~$115:
GeForce 8600 GT (it beats a 7600 and a X1650 XT witch fall around that price range)
Best PCIe Card For ~$150:
Tie
Radeon X1950 PRO (really hard to find for that price)
GeForce 7900 GS
(the X1950 PRO is similar to the X1900 GT, the main difference being that it is not based on the X1900 XT but a newer and less power-hungry core the card's main competition is the 7900 GS which the X1950 PRO will beat in most benchmarks at stock speeds however the 7900 GS tends to be cheaper and the X1950 PRO does not overclock well so they are both good buys depending on how you plan to use them the 7900 gs card is essentially an overclocked 7800 GT sporting a 256-bit memory bus and decent clock speeds it's a very good performer and a solid card for the money while the X1950 PRO is also a stronger performer, it's a bit more expensive the 7900 GS also has a good overclocking reputation while the X1950 PRO does not)
Best PCIe Card For ~$200
Radeon X1950 XT
Best PCIe Card For ~$280
GeForce 8800 GTS (320mb version)
Best PCIe Card For ~$360
GeForce 8800 GTS (640mb version)
Radeon HD 2900 XT ATIs new flagship card the HD 2900 XT trades blows with the 8800 GTS 640mb the only problem is that the HD 2900 XT costs $410 while the 8800 GTS 640mb can be found for as little as $350 it's hard to justify the extra $60 for similar performance so until the HD 2900 XT price becomes competitive with the 8800 GTS 640 i can't recommend it.
Best PCIe Card For ~$540
GeForce 8800 GTX
basicaly when looking at it go to the manufactures website dont trust what newegg puts there because sometimes ive noticed they leave stuff out
now ill show you one that will run alot of crap but it's hella imba and CPU bottleneck cokes the frame rates around 103 fps at certain games at lower resolutions built this for a friend
Budget Gamer Component Costs
CPU Athlon X2 3800+ AM2 $82
CPU Cooler AMD Boxed Cooler 0
Motherboard MSI K9N4 Ultra-F $59
RAM Wintec AMPO PC2-6400 1GB $70
Graphics GeForce 8800 GTX $540
Hard Drive Samsung HD160JJ - P80SD $51
Sound Onboard Audio 0
Case Coolermaster Centurion 5 $50
Power AeroCool ZERODBA-S620 $125
DVD-RW Sony NEC Optiarc Black AD-7170S-0B 18X SATA $35
Total Price $1012
another way to go is
Mid-Priced PC Component Costs
CPU Core 2 Duo E6600 $230
CPU Cooler Cooler Master Hyper TX $30
Motherboard MSI P965 Platinum $135
RAM Patriot eXtreme Performance PDC22G6400LLK $160
Graphics EVGA GeForce 8800GTS PN: 320-P2-N811-AR $280
Hard Drive Western Digital Caviar RE2 WD5000YS $160
Sound Onboard Audio 0
Case SILVERSTONE TEMJIN SST-TJ02SW $100
Power AeroCool ZERODBA-S620 $125
DVD-RW Sony NEC Optiarc Black AD-7170S-0B 18X SATA $35
Total Price $1,255
this is more rounded and does perform better up until the higher resolutions due to the fact the gts cant handel that many pixels compaired to a gtx but that around 1600x1200 resolutions
this is a highly specialized case i don't think id ever recommend such an unbalanced system (the budget one) to anyone but it makes a point that cant be ignored for high resolution gaming even the 8800 GTX is a viable card for a low-end dual core system
if you plan to play at very high resolutions your CPU's impact on performance is very limited compared to the influence of the graphics processor
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Ok So I narrowed it down between these PSUs: Which one do you guys suggest?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?item=N82E16817103940
Antec NeoHE 500 ATX12V 500W Power Supply - Retail
$104.99
3 Business Day Shipping $8.22
+3.3V@23A, +5V@17A, +12V1@17A, +12V2@17A, +12V3@17A, -12V@0.8A, +5VSB@2.5A
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?item=N82E16817341001
OCZ GameXStream OCZ600GXSSLI ATX12V 600W Power Supply - Retail
$109.99
($99.99 after $10.00 Mail-In Rebate)
3 Business Day Shipping $7.31
+3.3@36A,+5V@30A,+12V1@18A,+12V2@18A,+12V3@18A,+ 12V4@18A,-12V@0.5A,+5VSB@3.0A
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?item=N82E16817371001
Antec True Power Trio TP3-650 ATX12V 650W Power Supply with Three 12V Rails - Retail
$129.99
3 Business Day Shipping $8.22
+3.3@24A,+5V@24A,+12V1@19A,+12V2@19A,+12V3@19A,- 12V@0.8A,+5VSB@3.0A
(I think this was cheaper at the local store also)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139001
CORSAIR CMPSU-520HX ATX12V v2.2 and EPS12V 2.91 520W Power Supply - Retail
$129.99
($119.99 after $10.00 Mail-In Rebate)
Free 3 Business Day Shipping
+3.3@24A,+5V@24A,+12V1@18A,+12V2@18A,+12V3@18A,- 12V@0.8A,+5VSB@3A
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151025
SeaSonic S12-600 ATX12V / EPS12V 600W Power Supply 100 - 240 V UL, CE, CB, FCC - Retail
$124.99
3 Business Day Shipping $8.22
+3.3V@30A, +5V@30A, +12V1@18A, +12V2@18A, -12V@0.8A, +5VSB@2A
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371002
Antec True Power Trio TP3-550 ATX12V 550W Power Supply with Three 12V Rails 100 - 240 V UL, CUL, FCC, TÜV, CE, C-tick, CCC, CB - Retail
$94.99
Free 3 Business Day Shipping
+3.3@24A,+5V@24A,+12V1@18A,+12V2@18A,+12V3@18A,- 12V@0.8A,+5VSB@3.0A
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817341010
OCZ StealthXStream OCZ600SXS ATX12V / EPS12V 600W Power Supply 100 - 240 V CB, CE, CSA, UL, FCC - Retail
$94.99
($84.99 after $10.00 Mail-In Rebate)
3 Business Day Shipping $8.22
+3.3V@36A,+5V@30A,+12V1@18A,+12V2@18A,+12V3@18A,
+12V4@18A,-12V@0.5A,+5VSB@3.0A
PS- I'm looking at all these compared to this apevia iceberg (the one I bought) and the main differences are : 2 fans (instead of 1), runs at >70% efficiency (instead of 85%), has less SATA cables, but the Amps are way better: +3.3V@38A, +5V@40A, +12V1@22A, +12V2@24A, -5V@0.3A, -12V@0.8A, +5VSB@2A
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817148028
APEVIA ICEBERG ATX-IB680W-BL ATX12V / EPS12V 680W Power Supply With 3-Color LED Lights 115/230 V CB IEC 950, TUV EN 60950, UL 1950, CSA 950 - Reta
$119.99
($89.99 after $30.00 Mail-In Rebate)
Free 3 Business Day Shipping
+3.3V@38A, +5V@40A, +12V1@22A, +12V2@24A, -5V@0.3A, -12V@0.8A, +5VSB@2A
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Hrm. I'd say the Corsair. Definatly neither of the Antecs, they've gone down hill recently.
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man im so lost
So hey With the mail in rebates on Newegg What is the reciept? Or what do i have to print out to send with the rebate form?
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You can't really discern quality by looking at specs when it comes to PSUs. They tell you how many amps are on each rail, but you can't just add them all together to get the total amperage. For example, a PSU with 15A on +12V1 and 17A on +12V2 may only be able to supply a total of 26A at once. The ones I would consider are the OCZ GameXStream 600W (rebranded Fortron Epsilon), Corsair 520W, and Seasonic S12 600W.
OCZ GameXStream
- Powerful, probably the most powerful of the bunch
- Probably louder than the others
- Not modular (good and bad, because modular means increased resistivity, which could increase the chance of failure, but it also makes it so you can remove cables, reducing clutter and making it look better)
The Corsair and Seasonic are both made by Seasonic, so you can expect them to be very quiet and efficient. The differences are that the Corsair has a lower rated wattage (which means something, but not that much), is modular, and is a fairly new model. The S12-600 is older, but it is still a great quality PSU. I really don't know which one is more powerful, because you'd have to read reviews and guides. They should both be quieter than the OCZ though. Fortrons are usually known to be quite loud, but powerful, PSUs. I would steer clear of Antec, because even though they do have some quality PSUs made by Seasonic, some other ones aren't that good, mainly because they use cheap crappy capacitors.
*EDIT*
@rebate: You just print off a copy of the invoice.
*EDIT2*
Graphics cards:
You can't compare raw clockspeeds. At one point, you could compare number of pixelpipelines and multiple by clockspeed to find out a relative indicator of performance. But now with ATI embracing a ring-bus architecture in their X1k series, focusing heavily on shaders, there's pretty much no way to compare a Geforce card with a Radeon without doing benchmarks. The X1950XT does indeed outperform the 7950GT though. However, it's a pretty loud and hot card, which doesn't really bother me, but everyone has their own preference.
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Like I said before, I swear by Seasonic when it comes to my PSUs so my advice on that front is kinda jaded. It's maybe not the best way to judge, but when I look for a new PSU one of the steps I take is to go around to all the online stores and read every customer review. If I see people complaining about failures that happened after they started using it (ie. it wasn't broken coming out of the box), I tend to get wary.
A PSU failure is horrible thing, or atleast it can be. I had a FSP (Fortron) in my computer about 4 years ago, and it blew taking my GPU, CPU, mobo, and RAM with it. And it was all out of warranty. {sigh} I understand this is a minority case because Fortron are a very reputable brand, but every build I've done since then is Seasonic and they've never given me ANY trouble whatsoever.
You'll have to decide what kind of sound level you're happy living with. For example a loud graphics card or power supply doesn't really bother me, but thats because I've got about 9 fans in my case, so its a very slight difference. You on the other hand might be looking for a quieter PC, in that case your options will be slightly different. I personally find nearly all PSUs with 120mm fans to be pretty quiet, probably quieter than the stock fan that comes with a Core 2 Duo CPU (even though sound is a matter of opinion, others might not think so), but there definatly are differences in timbre, etc.
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Sound is not an issue for me. Thanks for the breakdown though. I guess I'm gonna go with one of your choices then.
Guess I'm gonna go with this one.
SeaSonic S12-600 ATX12V / EPS12V 600W Power Supply 100 - 240 V UL, CE, CB, FCC - Retail
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151025
do all PSU come with 120mm fans? this one doesn't say the size of the fan. nvm
Was kinda hoping you would recommend the OCZ(s) over this and the Corsair though (cause they're slightly cheaper).
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I already psosted that chart. It doesn't even list the CPU's I am considering.
And I know that RAM depends on MoBo thats what I was asking.
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Dude quickly remove the order of that graphics card, it's absolutley not worth 180bux when you can order this http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130082
for exactly 100bux extra.. the 320mb gts is god... it's the center of your computer man! youa re suppose to cut edges to fit a great graphics card..
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On June 29 2007 13:22 FatRine wrote:Dude quickly remove the order of that graphics card, it's absolutley not worth 180bux when you can order this http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130082 for exactly 100bux extra.. the 320mb gts is god... it's the center of your computer man! youa re suppose to cut edges to fit a great graphics card..
uh, no I don't need that crazy of a graphics card dude. I am not willing to spend over 200$ on any 1 part in my comp, hell even over 150$ is pushing it. Like shit, If I'm gonna spend that much why not just buy the best top of the line card for $50-75 bucks more than this one you suggested? Where does it end.
I have a budget, If I had 2k$ laying around sure I understand this is great and I would definitely take the advice for top of the line shit without questioning anything, I mean this thread would have been like 2 posts.
"hey, Money isn't an issue whats the best system I can build right now?"
Then you could list a bunch of shit in your dream system.
I'm not gonna cut corners on any parts. My goal is to build a well rounded system. I don't want 1-2 things that are super good and having them bottleneck on other sub par cheaper parts just to fit my budget.
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For Cpu the 6600 is the defenate best
now when your buying your mobo cpu and ram
your mobo and ram is the most conflicting things
scence your went with the ati card it be pefered that you buy a mobo with ati bridges witch ones is up to your preference and when you buy the mobo or if you want ram go onto the manfactures website and look for capatablity if not your sticks of ram might not be instally reconized and then it becomes plug and pray. scence its ati the stick are proably going to be OCZ, G.skill or Crucial Technology, Mushkin might work but im unsure corsair would proably work too but they tend to side with nvidia products alot and nvidia mobos if by some off chance your ddr insted of ddr2 then i would go with PNY Techn. also if im suggesting something scence
Seagate Barracuda ST3250820AS 250GB
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822148142
for a hard drive its access and write timing are quite good and its quite cheep as long as your mobo witch it should comes with sata cables it would be fine when buying a hd it doesn't matter how much the catche be writher 8mb or 16mb its about how it performs and this one is a good mix between price and performance
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On June 29 2007 13:24 CharlieMurphy wrote:Dude quickly remove the order of that graphics card, it's absolutley not worth 180bux when you can order this http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130082 for exactly 100bux extra.. the 320mb gts is god... it's the center of your computer man! youa re suppose to cut edges to fit a great graphics card..
haha yeah for the extra 100 the perforance difference is amazing high donno why but it is haha 1 8800gts out runs my older 2 7900 in sli weird huh well it out runs it untill i hit higher res over 1600 by 1200 proably because the combined ram is greater in 2 7900
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On June 29 2007 13:41 IzzyCraft wrote:Seagate Barracuda ST3250820AS 250GB http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822148142for a hard drive its access and write timing are quite good and its quite cheep as long as your mobo witch it should comes with sata cables it would be fine when buying a hd it doesn't matter how much the catche be writher 8mb or 16mb its about how it performs and this one is a good mix between price and performance
Yea, I bought a 200g Maxtor for $59.99 last summer (great deal) don't really need a HD as I have many I could slave on if I need the extra space.
After my Seagate Barracuda 70g failed.
Some of the hard drives are getting crazy cheap now like 750gb for 240$ I think by january I'll probably need a new HD and get one of those when they are a bit cheaper.
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On June 26 2007 17:54 CharlieMurphy wrote:
yea, ok. but what I'm suggesting is 680w PSU overkill?
What cards are cheap that support DX10 ? Sc2 might require Dx10, They aren't sure yet. I don't wanna have to buy a new card when it comes out.
SC2 Was made from 2003, meaning that it won't all of a sudden change so drastically as to require DX10 hardware. You'll be fine on this point. Also, I'd like you to take into consideration that blizzard always makes their games run on anything. ANYTHING. I can run diablo 2 on a 15 year old computer. (Pentium 233).
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You dont need a 600w psu, yet you decided you would buy it. Nor do you really need the core 2 duo especially much with that graphics card. You can just buy the cheapest core 2 duo and overclock it.
But the real deal is that..... you might not realise that if you spend 100bux extra on a 1000bux system, then youll probably get 20-40% better performance in older games. And ESPECIALLY in newer ones coming out youll get that type of performance boost.
you'll probably regret not spending those 100bux later on.
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On June 29 2007 14:00 FatRine wrote:
You dont need a 600w psu, yet you decided you would buy it. Nor do you really need the core 2 duo especially much with that graphics card. You can just buy the cheapest core 2 duo and overclock it.
But the real deal is that..... you might not realise that if you spend 100bux extra on a 1000bux system, then youll probably get 20-40% better performance in older games. And ESPECIALLY in newer ones coming out youll get that type of performance boost.
you'll probably regret not spending those 100bux later on.
I bought the 600w over the 520w because its like 5 bucks more and almost the exact same specs-wise.
And I'm not doing any overclocking because I don't know how nor do I feel like learning and/or breaking my hardware trying.
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for just 1 cpu card a 600w should be fine as long as the 2 pins have enough apms across them
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i got a custom built rig couple weeks ago, e6600, asus p5n32e- sli plus, asus 880gts 640mb, antec 900 case, corsairs hx 620 psu, seagate 320gb hd. its pretty good.
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Why don't you just PM teh leet newb, since you're obviously ignoring all other posts; the questions you're asking now were addressed by other posters earlier in the thread :p
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On June 29 2007 18:02 dronefromhell wrote:
i got a custom built rig couple weeks ago, e6600, asus p5n32e- sli plus, asus 880gts 640mb, antec 900 case, corsairs hx 620 psu, seagate 320gb hd. its pretty good.
haha but thats kinda an enthusiast rig hes going for a budget computer and im assume he wants it for more then just games cause if its all games hella buy a cheep cpu and spend it all on a gpu and ram it'll choke out around maybe 100 fps but it run shiet
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They probably just ran out of stock. Did your order go through? If not, I'd go ahead and get the OCZ.
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On June 29 2007 18:02 dronefromhell wrote:
i got a custom built rig couple weeks ago, e6600, asus p5n32e- sli plus, asus 880gts 640mb, antec 900 case, corsairs hx 620 psu, seagate 320gb hd. its pretty good.
Is "pretty good" an understatement or what? That should be running really nice.
Anyway, IMO you've made good decisions so far CharlieMurphy. Personally I'd have gone for a better graphics card, but the golden rule is you pick a budget and stick to it. There's always going to be something just that little bit better, just another $50, and al of a sudden you're selling a kidney to afford your computer.
Look at it this way: The 8800GTS ia better card then the 1950XT, but 1950XT is in your budget. Graphics cards are easy to replace, and you can sell on the 1950XT or whatever at a later date, when you've got more money to be spending on a graphics card.
What IzzyCraft says about "ATI bridges" is true only in so far as you don't want an nForce motherboard with an ATI card, because as far as I know they're incompatible. Otherwise, you'd only have to worry about whether it was Crossfire compatible, and then you'd only have to worry about THAT if you wanted to use Crossfire.
This next step with buying the Motherboard is probably going to be the most important part, because it's the most annoying to replace (imo), so you might be stuck with it for a while. Pay attention to FSB speeds, etc. because this will dictate what RAM you can install.
Good luck, and while the CPU isn't the be all and end all, especially when games are involved, it still pays to have a better one! All these posts about just buying a shit CPU and the best GPU you can possibly afford are flawed in so far as the CPU still plays a part in a lot of stuff, especially physics in games. You shouldn't (overly) neglect any part, but you could possibly afford an "average" CPU in exchange for more RAM or a better GPU.
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No I do a lot of multitasking. I will consistently be playing games downloading/searching for music,running AIM, and playing music with other programs open in the background. I need a good CPU as well as a graphics card. I don't plan to do any huge resolutions 1024xXXX is fine for me. I just want it to run super good at that resolution.
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On July 01 2007 06:32 sc0rchedst0rm wrote:
What IzzyCraft says about "ATI bridges" is true only in so far as you don't want an nForce motherboard with an ATI card, because as far as I know they're incompatible. Otherwise, you'd only have to worry about whether it was Crossfire compatible, and then you'd only have to worry about THAT if you wanted to use Crossfire.
Uh, where did you get that info? The mobo chipset has nothing to do with the video card. I'm running an X1950XT on an nForce4 Ultra motherboard, and it works just fine.
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then get quad core, the q6600 gonna be around 300$ in late july.
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On July 01 2007 14:06 teh leet newb wrote:Show nested quote +On July 01 2007 06:32 sc0rchedst0rm wrote:
What IzzyCraft says about "ATI bridges" is true only in so far as you don't want an nForce motherboard with an ATI card, because as far as I know they're incompatible. Otherwise, you'd only have to worry about whether it was Crossfire compatible, and then you'd only have to worry about THAT if you wanted to use Crossfire.
Uh, where did you get that info? The mobo chipset has nothing to do with the video card. I'm running an X1950XT on an nForce4 Ultra motherboard, and it works just fine.
It was something I heard in relation to nForce 680s... I admit I have never tested whether it was true or not, and I'm not entirely sure where I heard it so it might just be some strange thought that popped into my head, and was actualy complete bs.
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The Quad core: Q6600 is gonna be $266. So will the new dual core E6850 starting July 22. Thats my conundrum right now. Go Quad or go with the 3 ghz E6850. I've read many articles online about the advantages of both and still don't know. When July comes, i'll prolly just toss a coin to decide.
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Wow, I didn't realise all the new processor stuff just about to come out. Guess this seals the deal. New computer time this summer!
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EPT![[image loading]](http://www.techpowerup.com/img/07-05-15/Inte.jpg)
