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JWD

United States12607 Posts

January 24 2012 05:27 GMT

10 things you should know about (XX):

2. favorite albums 2011

+ Show Spoiler [honorable mentions] +

Cut Copy Zonoscope
Class Actress Rapprocher
Trophy Wife Bruxism EP (see below)
Burial Street Halo EP (my blog on it)
Friendly Fires Pala
Tycho Dive (stream it)
Washed Out Within and Without

to make this list easier to digest, I set up a YT playlist of choice tracks from these albums.

2011 was a year of fantastic debuts; nine of the above LPs are their artists' firsts. SBTRKT is #1 not for being sophisticated music but because it weathered both summer and fall (don't you find it hard to play most summer albums come November?). this is a catchy, poppy, crisp album that (in my ears) rescued "dubstep" from its unfortunate trend towards unlistenable distortion. something James Blake said comes to mind:

certain producers — who I can’t even be bothered naming — have definitely hit upon a sort of frat-boy market where there’s this macho-ism being reflected in the sounds and the way the music makes you feel. And to me, that is a million miles away from where dubstep started. It’s a million miles away from the ethos of it. It’s been influenced so much by electro and rave, into who can make the dirtiest, filthiest bass sound, almost like a pissing competition, and that’s not really necessary. And I just think that largely that is not going to appeal to women. I find that whole side of things to be pretty frustrating, because that is a direct misrepresentation of the sound as far as I’m concerned.

I tried to see SBTRKT spin at a bar in New York this summer, but the venue was so overcrowded that it drew the attention of the cops, who shut the place down before his set. (I later heard from a friend of the bar's owners that their liquor license was expired, and the night ended with NYPD pouring their entire stock of alcohol ($tens of thousands) down the drain!)

so I was extra excited to catch SBTRKT in Philly this fall (with araabMUZIK, whose MPC skills are worth checking out). the show was in my mind as I thought on 2011's best. play SBTRKT next time you entertain.

3. Q: I want to dress better/change my wardrobe. where to start?

A: stop wearing sneakers.

yah, I'm not saying that sneakers can't be stylish and awesome, just that imo it's really fucking hard to pull them off without an otherwise fantastic wardrobe. every time I put on a pair of sneaks I feel like I need to try too hard not to look like a big kid.

plus, nice shoes are a choice way to begin dressing better (or more "adult", or whatever) because

you can wear a nice pair of shoes every day, with anything, and in any weather
they're infinitely simpler to shop and fit than, say, a suit or shirt of equal quality
a good pair of shoes is easy to repair when worn out, and will last years and years with proper care
shoes have an immense impact on how formal any getup is
shoes are in the wearer's field of vision all the time ("see no evil")
chicks scope them

for a first pair of real shoes, I recommend brown leather (+ probably an oxford). brown matches better than black, and its advantages in informal wear trump black's advantages in formal wear (brown shoes with a suit = fine, black shoes with jeans during the daytime = highly questionable).* keep in mind: the darker the shade, the more formal.

here are some relatively inexpensive (low- and mid-range) shoes that I think would make a good start to anyone's wardrobe:

+ Show Spoiler [list] +

Allen Edmonds has been making basically the same shoes for almost a century. I have the Fifth Avenue in "Walnut Calf" (pictured above) and I love them. I wear them almost every day, usually with jeans (but not always). the Sanford, McAllister, Strand, MacNiel, Jefferson, and especially the Vernon are also sharp choices for a first serious pair of shoes. since AEs are so common, you really do not need to pay full price. instead, comb third party retailers/eBay for a deal. I bought my most recent pair for $160 new.

Shipton & Hineage sells shoes made by Alfred Sargent, Cheaney, and Crockett & Jones for a bit less. my favorites are this Blandford Oxford and the awesome wholecut pictured above. (actually I think if I could start over right now, a wholecut might be my first brown shoe purchase. simplicity is sexy / most brogueing is too flashy for me)

along with some chunky clown shoes that I'm not a big fan of, Grenson sells some pretty classic brogues: the Tom (above) and the Dylan. you might also find some (even) more casual shoes worth buying here.

Markowski is a French shoemaker that makes some damn inexpensive (keep in mind the VAT discount if you're a US buyer, and peep the 30% off items) kicks. not tip top quality but far from garbage. I'd look at all of these

Howard Yount's dub monks are the best option for double monks under $400 imo (more options at all $$$). disclaimer, though: I don't really think a shoe this flashy is a good first buy unless you feel like the rest of your wardrobe is already kinda together. don't buy a Ferrari if you can't drive stick, you know?

longwings aren't my style, but I'm including these from Florsheim because I've heard they are a good deal. be wary of Florsheim's other models. they make some hideous shit.

other brands to think about are Edward Green, Alden, John Lobb, Alfred Sargent, Crockett & Jones, Tricker's, Church's, and Meermin. I haven't included most of these in my list above because they're expensive enough that if you're considering a pair you should not rely solely on this guide. one tip, though: check for quality shoe brands for cheap on eBay using this comprehensive search [src]. don't be afraid to buy a good pair of shoes used; used/new shoes are priced kind of like used/new cars.

note that if you're looking at any expensive shoe, you should probably try going in to a local store that sells the brand so that you can get a sense of sizing/fit. getting your size can be a pain in the ass, because many of the best shoemakers are foreign and use tons of different lasts. be sure to ask about widths and lasts.

+ Show Spoiler [some other shoes I like atm] +

worth considering as a second pair:

Alden Yorke cap toe boots
a bunch of nice single monks
a bunch of nice boots
ROTM Sand Suede Dub Monk (ok these are sold out, but I'm sure ROTM will make more like them soon)
Alden x Leffot Day Tripper Boot
Oak Street Bootmaker Beefroll Penny Loafer (for casual wear)
RL Innsbrook Burnished Loafer (for more formal wear)
Smashburn dub monks (my favorite double monk)
Alden for J.Crew cap toe cordovan boots (cordovan is actually amazing.)
McNairy navy buck (McNairy is kind of the king of suede bucks, and these are the most versatile imo. a great summer shoe. I bought a pair from Walk-Over because they were cheaper, but am not sure I made the right decision. the third contender is Sanders.)

* I'm assuming your life is something like mine. if, e.g., you spend all your time in a suit or out at clubs, then you should probably go black (...and you've likely already moved on from sneakers).

see also: http://pinboard.in/u:josephw.dunn/t:shoes/ (I linked most of the stuff here already, but by the time you click it I may have bookmarked some more pairs)
something my buddy Tom wrote about shoes (really smart imo)
something I wrote my brother on shoes
http://putthison.com/tagged/shoes
http://thesilentist.tumblr.com/tagged/shoes
http://dieworkwear.com/tagged/shoes

+ Show Spoiler [this post brought to you by MrB] +

Original Message From MrBitter:
Hey bro,

I'm trying to build a new wardrobe.

I don't know where to start.

Halp?

http://www.teamliquid.net/blogs/viewblog.php?topic_id=296628

4. Please Say Something

5. Shame

Shame (dir Steve McQueen) blew me away. when the credits began rolling, I couldn't get up from my seat (you know?).

critics paint this movie as about "sex addiction" but I think it's more about being young and male, and especially in a city (Shame is set in NYC, and is very NYC). it's honest about so many things: terrible restaurant dates, riding public transportation, porn, your douchebag "let's go hit on chicks" friend, and day-to-day life as an anonymous, supposedly-independent yuppie.

in short: go see Shame. by yourself if you like (not recommended for first dates, or family movie night). maybe sneak a bottle of wine into the theater. and afterwards, think a bit on how different you and Brandon Sullivan really are.

(if you've seen it, please post your review!)

see also: Director McQueen and location scout David Velasco discuss the movie's various sets in NYC
Public Sex at the Standard Hotel
The Average American Male

6. Acronym F/W 2012

not my style, but these jackets are backed by the sickest product demo vids:

7. Trophy Wife - Bruxism EP

Stream it
Buy LP

my brother sent me Trophy Wife's debut single "Microlite" this summer. wow! super catchy song. a few months later the band followed it up with their debut EP, which has a couple more dance/headbob-inducing gems on it. my favorite is "Sleepwalks".

just some lighthearted pop to put a bounce in your step as you try to cope with several months of short days / cloudy skies (N Hemisphere bias sorry).

in the vein of: Foals, The Whitest Boy Alive, The New Division, Two Door Cinema Club

8. "The Silent Season of a Hero"

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Gay Talese's profile of Joe DiMaggio may be the birth of modern sports journalism, and is widely considered one of the best articles ever written about celebrity. read up for some insight into Joe's dysfunctional relationship with Marilyn Monroe, the bizarre obligations of a retired athlete, and the man behind MLB's one "unbreakable" record.

see also: Joe + Marilyn
Gay Talese talks about his wardrobe (bespoke suits)
"happy birthday, Mr. President"
modeling hit streaks

9. Ross Capicchioni should be dead

(part 2)

and I said "ok, well, either I stay, lay down in this spot right here and die, or I try to get up"

riveting story. even better storytelling. I had to watch it twice.

10. potpourri

+ Show Spoiler [kinda fat…take your time] +

ahhhhh so sweet

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http://eatock.com/

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http://www.epauletshop.com/servlet/the-Brands-cln-Epaulet-cln-Trousers/Categories

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http://rapgenius.com/Kanye-west-gotta-have-it-lyrics

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L O L

me and my little brother talking about why everything is ugly (factual inaccuracies possible)

Vintage Porn logos from PornoGraphics on Vimeo.

http://www.vvank.com/

http://www.holovaty.com/youtube-insult-generator/ (about (it's clever))

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Chicken_Egg_without_Eggshell_5859.JPG

okay confession, I found this on Pictureplane's blog when I came home wasted one night, and watched it like 4 times. when I clicked this related video (whattttttt) I knew it was time to go to sleep.

http://blackboardsinporn.blogspot.com/

http://www.quora.com/Whats-the-best-way-to-escape-the-police-in-a-high-speed-car-chase/answer/Justin-Freeman

http://www.themorningnews.org/article/the-age-of-mechanical-reproduction
the horrors of "assisted reproductive technology", written by a man

https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/111901425213768112631/albums/5654055509127305937

http://www.nytimes.com/2011/09/18/magazine/my-familys-experiment-in-extreme-schooling.html?_r=1&pagewanted=all
watch the video. kids are amazing.

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http://www.theatlantic.com/infocus/2011/09/vladimir-putin-action-man/100147/

ummmmm

new The xx in blog XX

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I wrote some shit (to my brother) about Star Wars: 1 2 3

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http://niemann.blogs.nytimes.com/2011/09/30/log-in/

here is the story of Mets slugger (and star player) Jose Reyes asking to be taken out of the last game of the season after a hit in the first inning, to preserve his MLB-leading .337 average. N-n-n-n-n-aniwa?

http://kottke.org/12/01/the-best-us-map

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The Whisky Water Trick from Casey Neistat on Vimeo.

http://fraternite-ou-la-mort.tumblr.com/post/12630419176/here-is-a-perfect-example-of-what-im-talking

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http://salavon.com/work/EveryPlayboyCenterfoldDecades/

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http://kimjongildroppingthebass.tumblr.com/
http://wtfismikewearing.tumblr.com/

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eerily human?

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http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_people_who_disappeared_mysteriously

http://kanyedbythebell.tumblr.com/

back in time: XIX XVIII XVII XVI XV XIV XIII XII XI X IX VIII VII VI V IV III II I

Eternalmisfit

United States643 Posts

January 24 2012 05:37 GMT

I read the part about the shoes and it has been very similar to my philosophy on the same for a while i.e. brown shoes works in both casual and formal occasions. However, the shoes you have listed as low-end are still on the high-end for quite a few folks. I used a pair of Timberlands (~$70-80 bucks) which look very similar to the first shoe image you linked and they served me well. And I recently replaced those with a pair of Rockport (near same on budget). They are a decent alternative if someone seeks a little more inexpensive.

EDIt** Going to read up the rest of this blog and your older blogs on similar matters later as they have piqued my interest.

flamewheel

FREEAGLELAND26781 Posts

January 24 2012 05:38 GMT

JWD BLOG HELL YEAH

Golgotha

Korea (South)8418 Posts

January 24 2012 05:38 GMT

oh man so glad that you still do these

c.Deadly

United States545 Posts

January 24 2012 05:39 GMT

Thanks for continuing this fantastic series JWD. I saw the name in the side bar and first thought of the band The XX (which I was first introduced to through your blog), but then I was very happy when I saw the author.

Mr. Wiggles

Canada5894 Posts

January 24 2012 05:41 GMT

Skimmed though the blog, like what I see as always. :p

Will have to get into the meat of it tomorrow, it's late now.

JWD

United States12607 Posts

January 24 2012 05:43 GMT

On January 24 2012 14:37 Eternalmisfit wrote:
However, the shoes you have listed as low-end are still on the high-end for quite a few folks.

thanks for the comment.

yeah, I think the average guy sees a $150+ pricetag on a shoe and thinks that's exorbitant. and he might have a point! but the way I see it, a nice $300 pair like the ones I've recommended above is actually a great deal because it'll last you 4x as long as a $80 pair of sneakers (many more, with re-soles), and is infinitely more versatile.

there's no doubt, though, that this is somewhat a matter of taste and spending priorities. I just think shoes are important enough to be worth some up-front investment (vs, say, other things I could buy for $300, like some new PC components or a TV).

On January 24 2012 14:39 c.Deadly wrote:
Thanks for continuing this fantastic series JWD. I saw the name in the side bar and first thought of the band The XX (which I was first introduced to through your blog), but then I was very happy when I saw the author.

np ^^

I thought of the band too; check the potpourri for a new demo of theirs!

Probulous

Australia3894 Posts

January 24 2012 05:50 GMT

Hell it's about time

Love the bit about shoes. You mention second hand ones, have you ever bought any? I'm not sure about putting my feet where others have been

Tortious_Tortoise

United States944 Posts

January 24 2012 05:53 GMT

This is one of the reasons I wish I had been part of this community during the BW years. I've read back through all the JWDs, but it's just not the same as getting one in real time

neoghaleon55

United States7435 Posts

January 24 2012 05:53 GMT

#10

I don't get it...
What does XX mean?
Are you a writer for a style magazine?
o_O

t3tsubo

Canada682 Posts

January 24 2012 05:58 GMT

#11

HELL YA!! Most stylish and cultured person on TL

Probulous

Australia3894 Posts

January 24 2012 05:58 GMT

#12

On January 24 2012 14:53 neoghaleon55 wrote:
I don't get it...
What does XX mean?
Are you a writer for a style magazine?
o_O

Click on his blog link. He has done twenty of these, hence XX

neoghaleon55

United States7435 Posts

January 24 2012 06:00 GMT

#13

Oh I see.
Thank you
^_^

Interesting read

KhAmun

United States1005 Posts

January 24 2012 06:01 GMT

#14

Ahhh thank you good sir, excellent as always

iNcontroL

USA29055 Posts

January 24 2012 06:03 GMT

#15

you are so pretty

JWD

United States12607 Posts

January 24 2012 06:05 GMT

#16

On January 24 2012 14:50 Probulous wrote:
Hell it's about time

Love the bit about shoes. You mention second hand ones, have you ever bought any? I'm not sure about putting my feel where others have been

sup Probulous

I've bought shoes second hand on eBay, yeah. if you're looking at leather shoes like the ones I wrote about, you almost can't go wrong. leather doesn't retain stink like a fabric would (which is nice for going sockless in summer, btw), and if it's quality you can always make it look almost like new with a good cleaning and polish.

there is a very good market for nice old shoes on eBay, and since shoe sizes are quite uniform (vs., like, jacket sizes — what a nightmare) it's pretty easy to know what you're buying.

so I really recommend buying shoes used, especially if you are a student with no income (like I'll be for another few months...crawling into the finish here). as I alluded to above, you'll save the big premium that you'd need to pay just to "wear them off the lot". like, there's a ~30% markdown from retail for shoes that are just "without box, but unworn".

p.s. sup iNc, always get a kick out of your comments here