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Cycling the Great Divide, how I spent a summer

Blogs > Deja Thoris
Post a Reply
Deja Thoris
Profile Blog Joined November 2010
South Africa646 Posts
May 02 2011 02:16 GMT
#1
I'm writing this blog to try to recapture my love of cycling. I somehow fell out of the habit. This is a trip down memory lane if you will. A good while back climbing on my bike was a daily ritual for excercise and enjoyment. This

culminated in me taking on a 3,988km cycle tour called the Great Divide, thats 2,493 miles in old money. The Great Divide is a trip from Canada to Mexico following the watershed, in other words you are riding down the spine of the

country, and its hilly!

For almost 3 months a group of us, aging from 13 to 68 crossed the States on mountain bikes, on an unsupported tour. That meant carrying our own food, water, camping gear, spare parts and stuff for a medical emergency. It was immensely

tough but also extraordinarily rewarding.

It would be remiss of me to describe it in my own words since the folks that arranged the tour do such a wonderful job themselves. The desription below is theirs. The photos inset are from our trip itself and I hope they do justice to

the vast, beautiful place that is the States.



Their writeup...
CANADA TO MEXICO
The Great Divide Route is geographically divided into five regions. The diverse nature of the regions makes for an incredible visual, sometimes spiritual experience. The route offers something different every day -- whether it be riding

conditions, scenery, points of interest, or folks along the way. It is a route to be enjoyed for its diversity.

A wide variety of road conditions exist along this route. Surfaces range from pavement, good gravel roads, four-wheel-drive roads, singletrack, or old railroad beds. There is an excellent opportunity to view wildlife such as bear, deer,

wild horses, pronghorn antelope, eagles, osprey, sandhill cranes, and other birds and animals. The route is rich in history, with ghost towns, deserted mines, wagon routes, and old Spanish land grants.

[image loading]
I came, I saw (a bear!) and I pedaled away as fast as my little legs would carry me! This photo is the closest thing in this blog!

The route is near or goes through several national parks such as Glacier, Yellowstone, and Grand Teton. Temperatures tend to be chilly at night and cool to warm in the days as you are in mountainous regions most of the way. Wind really

isn't a factor along the route because you spend a lot of time in the cover of trees, with the exception of the Great Basin area. Snow, hail, and afternoon thundershowers can be a factor. Getting up and riding early to avoid the

afternoon thundershowers is advisable. Medical help is often a long distance off of the route, so riding within your abilities and being aware of dangers is a must. Mosquitoes are a fact of life -- take repellant.
[image loading] [image loading]
Northern Montana

Beginning at the Canadian border and heading south to Helena, Montana, you are in the deep woods and steep mountains near Glacier National Park and the Bob Marshall Wilderness. This area is native to grizzly bear, elk, moose, mountain

lion, thick woods, and has some difficult climbing. Snow can be found on some of the roads until mid-June, and this region can have very cold, harsh weather until July.

[image loading]
The road, where is it!?

Montana is characterized by mountainous riding in tall forests with occasional dips into small towns. It is also noted for its friendly people. The capital city in Montana, Helena, has less than 40,000 people and a nice small-town feel

to it. The other big town along the route is Butte, which has a definite blue-collar, mining flavor. Montana also has the toughest downhill on the route -- nicknamed "thermarest hill" for all the thermarests it has eaten. Even the

hardiest riders have to walk this one.

[image loading] [image loading]
He didn't walk the last bit, sliding is a better desription!



From Butte to Pinedale, Wyoming, you'll be riding through wide-open mountain valleys. The vegetation thins out into valleys with many different varieties of sage and high-elevation alpine woods. The route crosses the Continental Divide

many times, and the climbing is longer with very steep sections on some of the roads. You'll see many cows. You leave Montana crossing the divide into Idaho. You are only in Idaho for 72 miles and ride along some blue-ribbon fishing

streams and an old railroad bed on the west side of Yellowstone National Park. You'll cross into Wyoming between Yellowstone and Grand Teton National parks on a very scenic road with some great backcountry campsites and a genuine

undeveloped hot springs.

[image loading]
The tetons drawing close

The route cuts through a corner of the Tetons before heading east up over the divide again and then down the west side of the Wind River Range. The prettiest alpine region on the whole route can be found here. Just south of Pinedale,

Wyoming, is a stretch with the worst mosquitos on the entire route but makes for a great character builder. Farther on there's the unforgetable sensation of riding on the crest of the divide for several miles. You then hit an extremely

picturesque section of high desert following the Lander cutoff -- part of one of the westward wagon routes. Water is very scarce through here, so carry plenty. After dropping into the twin ghost towns of South Pass and Atlantic City, you

will cross the Great Basin -- a place of almost no drinkable water and no trees. Big northwest winds blow across vast open territory marked with wild horses and antelope. Rawlins, Wyoming, marks the end of the desert.
[image loading]

[image loading]
My favourite picture by far, not the most scenic but for me it encapsulates the wilderness and the distances travelled, this was wide, wonderful Wyoming

From southern Wyoming to northern New Mexico, you'll be in the Colorado Rockies. The ascents on the route stretch out to long mountainous climbs at elevations starting at 8,000 feet or above. Incredible aspen stands, huge mountains,

beautiful alpine meadow flora, historical tourist towns, and a less remote wilderness setting are the characteristics of this state. Expect early evening thunderstorms and cold nighttime temperatures. The highest pass of the route is

Indiana Pass, elevation 11,910 feet, in southern Colorado. Soon after crossing it, you get to see firsthand what kind of scars mining can leave on the land as you pass right through a federal Superfund site. Heading into New Mexico, the

road surface deteriorates, with much more rocky riding. Here the countryside turns much drier, and water sources can be few and far between. Climbs get shorter and steeper. Geographically this region is as remote as any place in the

continental United States. Mesas, cliff lines, volcanic formations, and mountain ranges that seem to pop right out of the desert floor are major visual features of this area. Many different cactus and grass varieties somehow provide

habitat for small rodents, snakes, and lizards. Townspeople are right out of Old Mexico, with Spanish spoken more than English. Late-summer monsoon rains turn roads into sloppy, red clay and can fill many of the dry creek beds on the

route in seconds. Roads are impassable until they dry out.

[image loading]

[image loading]
New Mexico

This area is both historically and anthropologically dominated by the rich Native American and southwestern Spanish culture. Coming down the east side of the Gila Wilderness is a welcome relief, with water once again available as you

head into Silver City, New Mexico, a place noted for learning about Anasazi culture with the Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument north of town and a good museum at the local university. From there it is a sprint south (mostly on

pavement) to the border crossing, which consists of one building on the border and nothing else for miles and miles.

Terrain
With the exception of the Great Basin in Wyoming, you will be either gaining elevation, or descending, for the entire route. The elevations are lower in Montana -- building up to the highest passes in Colorado and then tapering back off

in New Mexico. However, some of the toughest climbs are in Montana and New Mexico because of the steepness and the poor road quality. And in New Mexico you'll be carrying extra food and water for the serviceless stretches.

Remoteness Equals Limited Services
The remoteness of this route translates to long stretches of country without basic services, particularly emergency services. All services are minimal at best, except near larger towns, and communication coverage is only about 5 percent

of the route. About one third of the overnights are characterized as undeveloped wilderness sites, and most others are Forest Service sites with pit toilets and a water source. Food sources are usually small-town establishments,

convenience stores, and campground groceries with limited supplies. Towns are spaced every two to three days along most of the route. They tend to be extremely small and often have limited services. It is necessary to be flexible in what

you eat. Showers, flush toilets, drinking water, and laundromats are sometimes widely spaced. It is good to have some back-country camping experience before riding the Great Divide to know how to minimally impact the land. The Great

Basin in Wyoming and New Mexico both call for long-mileage days and carrying food and water for several days at a time.
[image loading]

Tough on Equipment
The Great Divide Route is extremely hard on equipment. The weight of your gear exponentially multiplies the stress of riding steep, fast, rough downhills. Wheels, tires, and drivetrains (chains, cassettes, bottom brackets, chainrings)

take a lot of abuse and might need replacing along the course of the entire route. Suspension equipment on the bicycle helps to mitigate the abusive nature of the terrain. That said, nylon pivots of some full-suspension bikes wear out

extremely fast and are not recommended. Suspension seatposts, good handlebar grips, and front-suspension forks help smooth out the many miles of washboarded and chuckholed roads. Weighting a suspension fork with panniers works well,

evens the weighting of the bike, and adds little extra stress to the fork. Trailers also work well and lighten the rear triangle of the bike. Well-made camping gear is essential for the many nights of high-elevation cold, dew, and rain.

A well-ventilated, free-standing, three-season tent covered by a rainfly with ample vestibule space and a "footprint" ground tarp is a must. Sleeping bags should be rated to below 20 degrees Fahrenheit, and inflatable mattresses add

comfort and warmth. A lot of effort must be taken to keep your possessions dry. Pannier covers, dry bags, and plastic freezer bags all work well to keep the rain and dew off clothing and gear. Good rain gear is also essential.

[image loading]
Thats me in the shades!



To end with, whatever your epic dream is, go for it! You will never lie on your deathbed wishing you had spent more time at work. You will regret missing opportunities to realise your dreams.

*****
Roe
Profile Blog Joined June 2010
Canada6002 Posts
May 02 2011 02:28 GMT
#2
I love biking! I've always thought of doing something like a cross country bike trip over the summer. But I've heard that a long trip on a bicycle can be rough on the lower regions, resulting in some deficiencies, any comments on that aspect of this?
aidnai
Profile Joined January 2010
United States1159 Posts
May 02 2011 02:57 GMT
#3
that is an epic journey. looks like great memories, I almost want to do it now myself
RebirthOfLeGenD
Profile Blog Joined November 2008
USA5860 Posts
May 02 2011 03:04 GMT
#4
On May 02 2011 11:28 Roe wrote:
I love biking! I've always thought of doing something like a cross country bike trip over the summer. But I've heard that a long trip on a bicycle can be rough on the lower regions, resulting in some deficiencies, any comments on that aspect of this?

Sitting on a bike oppresses one of the glands. I can't remember which gland. This can lead to (temporary) infertility, but once you calm down on the biking I am pretty sure your natural virility returns.

Looks awesome btw. I'd like to give it a shot one day.
Be a man, Become a Legend. TL Mafia Forum Ask for access!!
Jonoman92
Profile Blog Joined September 2006
United States9107 Posts
May 02 2011 03:26 GMT
#5
Looks like it was an awesome trip. Very hardcore.
platorepublic
Profile Blog Joined April 2011
United Kingdom344 Posts
May 02 2011 03:28 GMT
#6
Best blog post I've read so far.
Even though I've never met you, I still miss you.
Cofo
Profile Blog Joined June 2010
United States1388 Posts
May 02 2011 04:51 GMT
#7
That's so, so cool. Thanks for posting! I'm only in college, but doing something like this is without a doubt on my bucket list.
+ Show Spoiler +
AirbladeOrange
Profile Blog Joined June 2010
United States2574 Posts
May 02 2011 05:01 GMT
#8
Those pictures are beautiful.
duk3
Profile Joined September 2010
United States807 Posts
May 02 2011 05:15 GMT
#9
That's absolutely amazing, I'd love to do that along with hiking the entire Pacific Crest Trail.
Time flies like an arrow; fruit flies like a banana.
denzelz
Profile Blog Joined November 2009
United States604 Posts
May 02 2011 05:46 GMT
#10
Wow, amazing photos. I always wanted to do a trip like this. How much weight did each of you had to carry? Do you think it would have been feasible for 1-2 people to do a trip of this length if we went through places with reliable food supply (ie, not having to carry a lot of food/water)?
zOula...
Profile Blog Joined January 2008
United States898 Posts
Last Edited: 2011-05-02 08:22:59
May 02 2011 08:21 GMT
#11
Great read, I was raised in new mexico and now live in montana so I especially enjoyed it!

edit: the formatting is a little bit weird , random spaces mid-sentence and such
Deja Thoris
Profile Blog Joined November 2010
South Africa646 Posts
May 02 2011 11:54 GMT
#12
Thanks for the replies folks!

On May 02 2011 11:28 Roe wrote:
But I've heard that a long trip on a bicycle can be rough on the lower regions, resulting in some deficiencies, any comments on that aspect of this?


I think as long as your seat etc is setup correctly you will be fine. If your seat is not setup correctly you will know all about it before infertility becomes an issue. Sitting on a saddle for 6 hours or so a day means everything has to be perfect.

On May 02 2011 14:46 denzelz wrote:
Wow, amazing photos. I always wanted to do a trip like this. How much weight did each of you had to carry? Do you think it would have been feasible for 1-2 people to do a trip of this length if we went through places with reliable food supply (ie, not having to carry a lot of food/water)?


It's definately feasible for 1-2 people. I've also done the Pacific Coast solo. The Great Divide is more challenging because of food carries of 3-4 days. The Pacific Coast you are never more than a mile away from a skinny latte. I'd say kit weighs about 40lbs all told in normal circumstances. Once you are used to the weight it is trivial (I carried a dozen beers up a 10,000 foot pass in Colorado because I thought it would be nice to go with the evenings barbeque) If you ever do something like this I can't stress enough how important it is to train with a loaded bike after you get your base fitness. Riding 50 miles is not the same as riding 50 miles fully laden.


On May 02 2011 17:21 zOula... wrote:

edit: the formatting is a little bit weird , random spaces mid-sentence and such


Yup, sorry about that, it's in wordpad and it reads fine there. When I copy it across it does that to me. I also noticed that one photo is a duplicate. Thats what I get for doing it in the wee hours.
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