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Some recipies and pictures

Blogs > Shymon
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Shymon
Profile Blog Joined February 2005
United States620 Posts
August 31 2009 02:55 GMT
#1
I work as a cook at a fine dining restaurant and have wanted to make a blog about some of the stuff i experiment with there for a some time now. Usually the first thing i have to do everyday is to make an amuse for the dinner service, a small complimentary appetizer that we send to everyone. Since we try to make more progressive type food (molecular gastronomy, or nuevelle cuisine what ever you want to call it) these experiments can end up being pretty cool imho. so without further ado here's a couple of amuse i made recently:


Salmon tartar encased in basil, with tomato froth, daikon, and powdered olive oil.

[image loading]


Sorry for a bit of high contrast on this one, but i think you can see everything ok. The green ball is salmon tartar that has been dipped into basil water that has had gellen gum added to it so that it will form a gell completely around the tartar. Here's the full recipe (disclaimer: i made up all the values except the hydrocolloids pretty much afterwards, as i make it based on sight and feel at work):

salmon tatar with basil:

a couple hundred grams of salmon belly (basically the timings of a fillet, the high fat content works well here)

1 shallot minced

a couple generous handfuls of fresh basil

1 pot boiling salted water

icebath

toothpicks

1 daikon radish

100 grams extra virgin olive oil
300 grams tapioca maltodextrin

.5 grams gellan gum per 100 grams of basil water that you end up with (explained later)

2 vine ripe tomatoes
1.2 grams soy lecitin (assuming you will get 250-300 grams pureed juice from said tomatoes)

salt to taste
method:
Blanch the basil leaves for 5 seconds in the boiling water then transfer to the ice bath to cool, Blend the leaves with a little cold water till you get a nice green puree. you will need more basil then you think for this part. it should look like a light fruit smoothie in texture, strain through a fine mesh strainer (a chinois would be best). you should have about 400-500g of basil water from this or enough to fill a small sauce pot and dip a small ball into it fully. reserve this liquid.

mince the salmon belly and shallots and 1 basil leaf together until fine and then season liberally with salt (so many people are afraid of seasoning their food, don't be that guy), you then need to shape these into small round balls (think meatballs but smaller), then stick one tooth pick in each, place on a plate or sheet tray cover lightly and stick them in the freezer to firm up.

Once the salmon has firmed up (but not completely rock solid please) put the reserved basil water into a small sauce pot along with the gellan gum at .5% solution whisking well. bring to a bare boil (to activate the gellan so to speak) then allow to cool slightly, then while this is still warm dip each salmon ball into the basil water and coat, then once all of the balls have 1 coat on them go back and put another coat of basil water on till it is nice and green and shiny like the pic (3-4 coats in all). remove toothpicks (if you do it quick the hole left will sort of close on it's own) and refrigerate till service.

For the tomato froth. simply core and blend the two tomatoes
then strain through a chinois and add the lecithin, wait for it to dissolve and then use a small hand held stick blender or better yet an aerolatte to make the mixture froth up, wait 1 min for the bubbles to stabilize then collect the froth with a spoon and put it on the plate.

for the daikon simply peel and slice the daikon thinly on a mandolin and cut into squares, rub with olive oil and sea salt to season.

for the olive oil powder combine the olive oil and the maltodextrin with a whisk till the mass becomes a fine textured powder. (this will stay a powder until you eat it where it melts in your mouth).

then simply put all the elements like i did in the picture or better yet make your own plating of it.


wow....that was much longer then i thought it would be. ok maybe just one more for today, one for all the vegetarians out there, not an amuse but a full blown 1st course:

confit fennel with salsify and orange
[image loading]


the fennel is cooked sous vide here in olive oil and herbs which really makes it super tender and savory, the sauce is merely the pureed outer leaves also confited.

1 bulb fennel per diner
olive oil
rosemary
thyme
salt
1 orange cut into supremes
1 salsafiy peeled cut on the bias and blanced (just like we did the basil but blanced for about 3-4 mins)
cream

method, cut the tops off the fennel leaving the bulbs, cut away the root end and peel off the first few outer leaves and set aside. cut each heart into 4 wedges and place into a sous vide bag, add oil to cover and add a few sprigs of the herbs. do likewise to the outer leaves in a separate bag. seal both in a chamber vacuum sealer and place in a 185 degree water bath (Fahrenheit obviously), or if you don't have a immersion circulator then a pot of water just below a simmer works. cook for 1 hour. cool the fennel if you aren't going to be using it immediately afterward.

take the outer leaves and discard the oil and herbs, blend the leaves with just enough cream to make a thick puree, heat and use this as the sauce.

heat a film of clarified butter or olive oil in a saute pan and cook the hearts and salasify pieces over medium heat until caramelized.

pick a few of the fennel fronds for garnish. and plate up with the oranges as shown.





Well sorry for the small wall of text, in all honesty i am not sure anyone actually cares to know the in depth recipe, so i may shorten future entries into a short of tl:dr version with just pictures and descriptions, idk. if you guys have any questions on the recipes though let me know, it's sometimes hard to remember that stuff i take for granted isn't common knowledge to non culinary pros.







*****
FragKrag
Profile Blog Joined September 2007
United States11562 Posts
August 31 2009 03:09 GMT
#2
Whoa really cool stuff. When I watched top chef the most interesting contestants were always the molecular gastronomy chefs and now we have one on TL! Great
*TL CJ Entusman #40* "like scissors does anything to paper except MAKE IT MORE NUMEROUS" -paper
lac29
Profile Blog Joined December 2008
United States1485 Posts
Last Edited: 2009-08-31 03:20:45
August 31 2009 03:19 GMT
#3
Can you recommend any good cooking related books ... not recipe books.

I've read: http://www.amazon.com/Molecular-Gastronomy-Exploring-Traditions-Perspectives/dp/0231133138/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1251688789&sr=8-1

which was ok ...
MisteR
Profile Blog Joined July 2009
Netherlands595 Posts
August 31 2009 03:22 GMT
#4
I love it! The full recipies are really interesting, though I don't understand half of it yet. I do have a question or two: what is a sous vide bag, and what is a chamber vacuum sealer? I'm interested in trying the fennel if the opportunity presents itself but I'm not sure if I can get the equipment necessary...
Nal_Ra/Much/Horang2/Flying fighting!~
Jibba
Profile Blog Joined October 2007
United States22883 Posts
August 31 2009 03:22 GMT
#5
I am terrible at cooking but this thread is awesome.
ModeratorNow I'm distant, dark in this anthrobeat
Xeofreestyler
Profile Blog Joined June 2005
Belgium6775 Posts
August 31 2009 03:23 GMT
#6
This is awesome. I really really like stuff like this so I'm gonna keep an eye on your blog and try it out sometime. Keep on posting!
Graphics
Shymon
Profile Blog Joined February 2005
United States620 Posts
Last Edited: 2009-08-31 03:40:26
August 31 2009 03:32 GMT
#7
On August 31 2009 12:19 lac29 wrote:
Can you recommend any good cooking related books ... not recipe books.




"The Cook's Book" is a really good all round one, i got it solely for the really random foam section written by Aria but it turned out to be a really really really good basic primer for just about everything. Tons of pictures and good advice, more advice and techniques then recipes. Most of the stuff is pretty basic, but that can be a good thing.


Another book that i have literally worn the cover off of is "Culinary Artistry" which is amazing, the most useful section is a small encyclopedia of common food and flavor pairings IE you look up say scallops and it says a whole bunch of common flavor pairings with scallops. It also has a bunch of philosophy of cooking type essays that are a fun and insightful reads.

"A Day at El Bulli" is not a traditional cooking book so much as it is a really thick coffee table book. It's basicly hundreds upon hundreds of pictures of 1 full day at El Bulli, one of the top 2-3 resturants in the world, (they only sit like 8000 guests per season, or something close to that i can't remeber off the top of my head....but they get 1 million reservation requests per season....yeah, i know). Very little text but really cool to look at.

And the champion of all cooking books imho, "The big fat duck cookbook" cover to cover it is OMFG incredible.....which it should be given that it retails for $300. The story of each dish is simply mind boggling, the effort and care a thought that go into everything served at that resturant simply blow me away. That being said, everything in it is impossible to cook at home (mostly) and you would really be buying it to look at food porn and just read the stories about the incredible dishes he makes. As a bonus for food nerds like me there is a Whole bunch of food science articles in the last 3rd of the book which concern all sorts of good stuff like how we taste food, how hot and cold affect flavor etc etc.


On August 31 2009 12:22 MisteR wrote:
I love it! The full recipies are really interesting, though I don't understand half of it yet. I do have a question or two: what is a sous vide bag, and what is a chamber vacuum sealer? I'm interested in trying the fennel if the opportunity presents itself but I'm not sure if I can get the equipment necessary...



A chamber vacuum sealer is a vacuum packing device that seals a bag by sucking out all the air from a chamber around the bag (thus lowering the pressure) then sealing the bag with heat (melting the open part) then releasing the vacuum ( the result being the inside of the bag is extremely low pressure thus vacuum sealed, think like the seal on frozen things int he super market sometimes) this creates a contained bag with the ingredients that you usually drop into a water bath that is precisely temperature controlled to cook both slowly but extremely accurately. the whole process is called sous vide cooking. so the short answer a sous vide bag is a plastic bag.

you can do it non sous vide but it's much more of a pain. just heat enough oil and herb in a sauce pan to completely cover the fennel and very carefully watch the temperture for an hour making sure it stays close to 185 as possible.
Empyrean
Profile Blog Joined September 2004
17056 Posts
August 31 2009 03:32 GMT
#8
Haha wow, this is amazing. The food looks confusing, but I'm sure it's absolutely delicious.

I've always been interested in cooking, but I just suck too much at it to do anything more than stir-fry vegetables. Hell, the kitchen in my apartment came prepackaged with a fire extinguisher as if they knew that it had a huge chance for disaster

Great post, though.
Moderator
imDerek
Profile Blog Joined August 2007
United States1944 Posts
August 31 2009 03:39 GMT
#9
very interesting
Least favorite progamers: Leta, Zero, Mind, Shine, free, really <-- newly added
Xeofreestyler
Profile Blog Joined June 2005
Belgium6775 Posts
August 31 2009 03:50 GMT
#10
Also dont be afraid to make wall of texts, the more indepth the better imo
Graphics
NeverGG *
Profile Blog Joined January 2008
United Kingdom5399 Posts
August 31 2009 03:59 GMT
#11
I haven't eaten anything like this (I'm cheap.) but I do find it all pretty fascinating. I miss British cookery shows as well ;_; We only get Kitchen Nightmares and Hell's Kitchen on television in Korea (style channels.)
우리 행운의 모양은 여러개지만 행복의 모양은 하나
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