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On December 06 2016 09:00 Craton wrote:Show nested quote +The audio you hear during a YouTube video will usually be 126 kbps AAC in an MP4 container or anywhere from 50-165 kbps Opus in a WebM container. Changing video resolution (360p, 720p, etc) in the video settings will probably not impact the audio stream, but it is likely that your connection performance will. That sounds like audio quality is still variable, it's just not embedded into the video (i.e. lower quality doesn't automatically mean worse audio, but it still can be worse if your connection is poor).
Yeah but considering the simple question i gave a simple answer ^^
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Is there such a thing as a mousepad that has the following characteristics?
-Hard mat, no cloth
-Low friction
-Doesn't eat mouse feet
-Fairly large, like at least 12-14 inches wide and 10 inches high.
I'm currently using an old Razer Destructor mousepad, the surface is textured plastic and it's low friction... for a few days, before the mouse feet get all scuffed up, and then I get a fair bit of drag. Also it gets dirty and sticky from my clammy hands (fucking nightmare).
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i hope that's the good thread, otherwise sorry in advance i will repost it in the good one
here's the sheet of my motherboard
i'm currently running a SLI (as 8x/8x) on my x16_1 and x16_2 (see 1-19 on the link above) and i would like to know if my x16_1 and x16_2 would be affected in case i put a ssd (like this one) on the 16_3 (running as 4X) ? i mean, will my sli's lanes will stay at 8/8 or go like 8/4/4 ?
my question also applies in the case i go for the M.2 socket instead
thanks
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The first two full-length PCI-E slots are wired to the CPU. I'm pretty sure the third full-length slot is wired to the PCH, not to the CPU, so it's a separate thing.
The CPU has 16x PCI-E 3.0 lanes (that's why it ends up as 8x/8x when you do SLI). I think those lanes from the CPU are only used for the two PCI-E 3.0 graphics card slots that the board has and are not wired to anywhere else on the board so nothing is getting shared.
The PCH on your board is this chip here:
http://ark.intel.com/products/82012/Intel-DH82Z97-PCH
Somewhere on there it lists that it has 8x PCI-E 2.0 lanes. Those are shared between the two x1 slots and that third full-length PCI-E slot which is really just x4 (only the plastic looks like full-length). It also shares with the M.2 slot when that is set to PCI-E mode.
There's page 29 in the manual with a table that's confusing to me. I read it as you only get x4 on the full-length PCI-E slot if you leave everything else free. If you use any of the x1 slots, it drops from x4 to x2. If you use the M.2 slot in PCI-E mode, then the x1 slots get disabled and the x4 slot turns into x2. The M.2 slot is x2.
So what you'd do best is you put the SSD card into that third full-length slot of the board and you search around the BIOS menus for where PCI-E mode for the M.2 slot is configured and make sure the thing is disabled or set to SATA mode.
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just checked, according to the bios when you enable the PCIe X4 mode, the slot indeed runs as 4x and the two PCIeX1 and M.2 are disabled, otherwise it runs at x2 and with the M.2 connector and the two X1 are disabled so you were spot on (you can also disabled the M.2 and the pcie x4 will run at 2x with the two X1 enabled)
thank you for your answer, it's way clearer than before and i wasn't even aware of the kind of PCH that was used on my motherboard (that link is great)
i will do as you recommend
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Running windows 10 ultimate, sometimes i randomly get 100% disk usage( its a relatively new pc at that) and ive read people getting the same error even with computers they literally just installed windows on.
ive disabled something that microsoft said would fix(cant remember what) am defragging now, any other band aid fixes i should know/try?
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The things that would jump to my mind are Windows Defender, Search Indexer, and Volume Shadow Copy Service (VSS).
You can also open Resource Monitor (resmon.exe) and go to the Disk tab. That'll show you what's using your disks at a given moment.
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United States24799 Posts
I have a computer, a set of speakers (5 speakers + sub), a tv (acts as third monitor for computer), a fios cable box, a ps3, and a ps4. I need a way to manage all of the audio and video connections so I can use the speakers for any device, and can use the tv as a tv or as a computer monitor. The tv has 3 hdmi inputs. What is one thing I can buy to make it all work?
edit: for perspective, prior to acquiring the ps4 I had the cable box, ps3, and computer gpu connected to each of the three HDMI cable inputs on the tv, and an audio cable going from the tv headphones jack to the speaker system (lol)
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Don't you have a bunch of inputs in the amp of the speaker system? I know that mine has dozens of different inputs.
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United States24799 Posts
I think that's the item that I need to buy. Mine is really old and doesn't have enough of the right types of ports to make this all work. I need a receiver, right? Something I plug all my devices (i.e., cable box, ps3, ps4, gpu, future devices) into, then run one cable from the receiver to the TV to push video sans audio (since all sound should be played by the speakers connected to the reciever)...
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On December 12 2016 11:50 micronesia wrote:
I think that's the item that I need to buy. Mine is really old and doesn't have enough of the right types of ports to make this all work. I need a receiver, right? Something I plug all my devices (i.e., cable box, ps3, ps4, gpu, future devices) into, then run one cable from the receiver to the TV to push video sans audio (since all sound should be played by the speakers connected to the reciever)...
just get an HDMI switch. things are amazing and you never have to mess with em once you get them set up.
I bought this and it worked pretty well. don't use it because my ps4 died but used it a few times and it worked. (prob need to find it and set it up again. now that I got a new ps4) https://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-301BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049S6ZUS/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1481520765&sr=1-5&keywords=hdmi switch
theres cheaper but its like 30 and the lowest priced ones I'd trust are 25.
I think it should in theory auto detect which ones active. Can't remember if mine did that or not but it said it does.
It's much easier to just run everything into your tv then use a tv output then messing around with running stuff to recievers individually. A year or so ago we had to get a new receiver and rand things directly from them to the sound source and it was pretty rough. (had to get piggyback cables among other things and I think a super long optical cable). way quicker than trying to deal with cables or other random things. (one other thing I did for a bit was get a 3 foot hdmi cable and a female to female connection and switch the cables with it, worked okay but switch is way easier. If you want go super cheap though thats 12 dollars and you could just like put colored ties on the cables to seperate them.
receivers are more for like multiple speakers or if you want to have a cd player and the like. I think in our case the audio output on our tv or was broken or something so we had to improvise. currently I have my tv audio going to an old astro mixamp that goes to my speakers. (so I can easily hook up a laptop if I wan to play music or something.)
Summary
switch seems by far the easiest thing to do (although mine I kept misplacing the remote but I don't think you need it. also you need LOS with the remote, mine was hidden behind a sound bar so I had to stand to use it)
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Hey guys, i got confused about something while messing around with my wifi :
I have an Intel(R) Dual Band Wireless-AC 3160, which should be able to run 802.11ac, yet it seems to be recognized as 802.11n still : + Show Spoiler +
In my router settings i have a dropdown menu for 2.4ghz but not for 5ghz so i'm unable to select ac : + Show Spoiler +
Using wifi info view i noticed it kept switching between 802.11n and 802.11ac : + Show Spoiler +
So is the wifi actually set on AC or is it not working properly? I'd obviously rather have AC :p
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I have some problems with watching twitch lately. I got a dual monitor set up with a gtx 1070, one is 144hz one is 60hz. When i watch twitch on the 144hz monitor all is fine, but as soon as i drag the window over to the 60hz monitor i get heavy stuttering/frame skipping on source quality. Is there any way i could fix this?
Edit: I found this thread with the same issue http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/answers/id-2770651/stutter-lowered-fps-watching-twitch-monitor.html
It seems to be a problem with windows and different refresh rates on monitors. Can anyone test this on windows 10? If it works id have to finally bite the bullet i guess.
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I need help figuring out why my computer is losing connection to the Internet randomly.
My computer has a wired connection to my router. Every so often the internet just cuts out. It lasts from about 5 seconds to a minute. Then my computer auto-reconnects to my router/the Internet.
I have another wired computer on my network and it does not lose connection when mine does.
I think this only started after used my router's "reserved IP address" function to make sure my computer would keep the same IP. I then deleted the reservation hoping that would fix the problem but it didn't.
Any suggestions? I'm terrible at networking.
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Did you check the cable?
E: testing on your printer doesn't seem like the best test, as if the connection cuts in and out, you might not notice on the printer. Rather, use your printer's cable on your computer.
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Okay, then a couple more common problems:
1. Make sure your ethernet cable is plugged into one of the normal ports and not in the uplink port. The uplink port is always identifiable by being completely seperate and/or a different color from the normal ports. Do NOT plug your computer in there.
2. You inadvertently messed with some setting on your router and you're not sure what you messed up: reset it to its factory default settings.
3. You messed with the TCP/IP settings in your PC. Most common problem is that you set a static IP and a wrong gateway/netmask, meaning you cannot connect to the router. Make sure that it's set to DHCP (and you have DHCP on in your router, see point 2: factory default is DHCP for all consumer routers).
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EPT![[image loading]](http://i.imgur.com/ytxud5A.png)
![[image loading]](http://i.imgur.com/xwNufWx.png)
![[image loading]](http://i.imgur.com/zpBKytX.png)
![[image loading]](http://i.imgur.com/kw9GH1U.png)
