EPTI've never liked the stooges but read it fits the best, that is the waist doesnt puff out and it has a v-shaped silhouette. Intarsia/Mollino are more generic and goes better with non-rick stuff (imo), but don't think they're that different from Bauhaus. Bauhaus seems to have pockets that stick out though. I'm liking the Mollino design the best but I think the leather should be the determining factor? Hammered/full grain lamb/oiled calf are the best? Don't like silky lamb, prefer something with texture. What are the grail rick leather seasons? 09/12 or something? And what's the price I should be looking for? No more than $1200 for a used but good condition? Thanks.
Men's Fashion Thread - Page 316
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zulu_nation8
China26351 Posts
I've never liked the stooges but read it fits the best, that is the waist doesnt puff out and it has a v-shaped silhouette. Intarsia/Mollino are more generic and goes better with non-rick stuff (imo), but don't think they're that different from Bauhaus. Bauhaus seems to have pockets that stick out though. I'm liking the Mollino design the best but I think the leather should be the determining factor? Hammered/full grain lamb/oiled calf are the best? Don't like silky lamb, prefer something with texture. What are the grail rick leather seasons? 09/12 or something? And what's the price I should be looking for? No more than $1200 for a used but good condition? Thanks. | ||
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Pulselol
Canada1628 Posts
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zulu_nation8
China26351 Posts
also recently realized hidden placket shirts are the shit and a big reason why schneider is so good, his shirts are way overpriced though. | ||
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phosej
173 Posts
On January 17 2015 09:35 zulu_nation8 wrote: i agree, also fuck wearing jackets with peasant shirt/jeans fit, like the 5 zip is nice and everything but i hate margiela in general and rick people who wear normal stuff with their stooges and w/e. What do you mean? I don't wear any rick but I like wearing leathers over "peasant" stuff. I think you're generalizing too much here also recently realized hidden placket shirts are the shit and a big reason why schneider is so good, his shirts are way overpriced though. I've been looking at cos hidden placket shirts, too poor for jil/schneider | ||
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zulu_nation8
China26351 Posts
Basically I just don't like non traditional leathers + jeans, mostly blue jeans, doesnt matter if DH or N&F. As for RO, I dislike this part but aside from the brand whoring and getting something recognizable, etc, the fact I've tried on and knows how it fits on me is a huge plus, and leathers have no room for error. I was able to try on so much RO because it's fashionable and desired by trend chasing chinese consumers so shops stock it. But I'm aware that those other Italian/Japanese labels on h.lorenzo, etc make similar quality and well designed jackets for much cheaper. It's just that I don't wanna take the risk. And if I wait forever and never get RO full priced I will find good deals. Also like I've said before, a big reason RO is so popular among the general fashion public, at least in China, seems to be that he really fulfills that desire to stick out from the city masses, if just a tad bit. Cuz wearing something like camo bape or HBA would actually be pretty generic over there. That and also RO is expensive and Chinese people love to show others how baller they are. I think, again from very limited exposure, that RO is fairly easy to "get." Very generally, weird/heavy chunky shoes, exaggerated bottom heavy, really skinny or really wide silhouettes, and obv the goth/punk inspiration. Like it may be easier to fuck up a uniqlo fit than to fuck up wearing full rick, the worst you can do is be boring (again, imo, dont kill me if i'm wrong). That and no matter how much useless details or shitty leathers or overpriced the jackets or anything else user/are, can't deny that the stooges, bauhaus, geobaskets, etc are really really cool. | ||
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ZenithM
France15952 Posts
On January 17 2015 09:35 zulu_nation8 wrote: i agree, also fuck wearing jackets with peasant shirt/jeans fit, like the 5 zip is nice and everything but i hate margiela in general and rick people who wear normal stuff with their stooges and w/e. also recently realized hidden placket shirts are the shit and a big reason why schneider is so good, his shirts are way overpriced though. Wait, weren't you the one with a fit of a RO jacket with some grey sweatpants some pages back? That felt pretty "rick with peasant stuff" to me. | ||
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zulu_nation8
China26351 Posts
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phosej
173 Posts
+ Show Spoiler + ![[image loading]](http://i.imgur.com/NJbHnghl.jpg) ![[image loading]](http://i.imgur.com/QQEA1Txl.jpg) versus this + Show Spoiler + ![[image loading]](http://i.imgur.com/JMDz2H2l.jpg) | ||
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zulu_nation8
China26351 Posts
the second is good at first glance, again the 5 zip is an awesome jacket, but I feel like the chelseas kind of ruin the overall shape, would actually prefer sneakers or just something without a heel and not as sharp. Colors are good, can't really tell texture of the jeans but those are those waxed DH/SLP or something? Not that I've seen lots of different ways to wear the 5 zip, as in every fit is a variation of that, and it's obviously a "good" fit, but according to personal preference, I think it's a bit generic, and if I had the money and lived in a place where I can wear w/e I want and not stick out, I'd probably do something different. I don't know if normcore is even the right word but basically I think it's really difficult to wear rick with non rick, and most of the time it comes out weird or bad, but wearing full rick can also come out generic and boring. Default SF waywt is full of normcore so gats are pretty much the most popular footwear, default SZ seems to be anti-normcore, especially worn with their treasured ccp, rick, etc. Again it's just personal taste, I'm bad at mixing and matching so I prefer to keep stuff separate. I admire people who can throw together random stuff and make it work like fuuma. I like this geobasket fit, basically if the silhouette works then everything works + Show Spoiler + ![[image loading]](http://cdn.styleforum.net/e/e0/900x900px-LL-e06e674c_16104094678_369a0217d4_c.jpeg) also I know faust gets shit on a lot in other forums and I've just recently began browsing sz, but wtf are these? Are they over my head or do people praise him cuz they don't wanna get banned? + Show Spoiler + ![[image loading]](http://i60.tinypic.com/23vlx8l.jpg) ![[image loading]](http://i59.tinypic.com/34y4103.jpg) "White leather with removable collar - Boris Bidjan Saberi Wool hoodie - Raf Simons (F/W 2000) Jeans - thvm Creeper boots - Rick Owens Cashmere hat - Werkstatt" + Show Spoiler + ![[image loading]](http://i.imgur.com/NNQyPIP.jpg) "Wool, leather lined vest - BBS Denim with leather sleeves jacket - Drkshdw Double-layer top - RO Jeans - thvm Boots - RO" | ||
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Pulselol
Canada1628 Posts
chubbyfat midget doesn't wear anything well | ||
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andyrau
13015 Posts
On January 17 2015 06:58 zulu_nation8 wrote: mollino vs. bauhaus vs. high neck intarsia vs. stooges? I've never liked the stooges but read it fits the best, that is the waist doesnt puff out and it has a v-shaped silhouette. Intarsia/Mollino are more generic and goes better with non-rick stuff (imo), but don't think they're that different from Bauhaus. Bauhaus seems to have pockets that stick out though. I'm liking the Mollino design the best but I think the leather should be the determining factor? Hammered/full grain lamb/oiled calf are the best? Don't like silky lamb, prefer something with texture. What are the grail rick leather seasons? 09/12 or something? And what's the price I should be looking for? No more than $1200 for a used but good condition? Thanks. different cuts for different styles 'best leather' is hammered lamb and oiled calf in terms of weightiness, might want to look into box calf if you're looking for texture. all of ro's leather is chrome tanned anyways so it's not like you're really looking for the quality of the leather. it's just respected for the 'substantiality' and the aggressive cut & design On January 17 2015 17:24 zulu_nation8 wrote: i just mean i dont like leather with normal shirt + jeans + sneakers/chelseas, especially when a rick/japanese leather is worn that way like how 5-zips are generally styled. It works with stooges/intarsia or some traditional designs but not with the more aggressive types. And from browsing waywts on SF, I've began to truly hate that cuban dude who only wears margiela, and margiela in general as I still have no idea what it's about, and that he looks like a stereotypical 70s miami peasant socialite. I can't recognize anything signature MMM except for maybe sidezips and obv 5 zip. The 5 zip is a very nice jacket but I just don't know/don't like how it should be styled. Basically I just don't like non traditional leathers + jeans, mostly blue jeans, doesnt matter if DH or N&F. As for RO, I dislike this part but aside from the brand whoring and getting something recognizable, etc, the fact I've tried on and knows how it fits on me is a huge plus, and leathers have no room for error. I was able to try on so much RO because it's fashionable and desired by trend chasing chinese consumers so shops stock it. But I'm aware that those other Italian/Japanese labels on h.lorenzo, etc make similar quality and well designed jackets for much cheaper. It's just that I don't wanna take the risk. And if I wait forever and never get RO full priced I will find good deals. Also like I've said before, a big reason RO is so popular among the general fashion public, at least in China, seems to be that he really fulfills that desire to stick out from the city masses, if just a tad bit. Cuz wearing something like camo bape or HBA would actually be pretty generic over there. That and also RO is expensive and Chinese people love to show others how baller they are. I think, again from very limited exposure, that RO is fairly easy to "get." Very generally, weird/heavy chunky shoes, exaggerated bottom heavy, really skinny or really wide silhouettes, and obv the goth/punk inspiration. Like it may be easier to fuck up a uniqlo fit than to fuck up wearing full rick, the worst you can do is be boring (again, imo, dont kill me if i'm wrong). That and no matter how much useless details or shitty leathers or overpriced the jackets or anything else user/are, can't deny that the stooges, bauhaus, geobaskets, etc are really really cool. peasant is a bit condescending and most chinese kids don't even know what rick is, the average wealthy new money consumer in china wants gucci and prada and burberry and lv. if they're feeling a bit adventurous they might buy some chrome hearts because it's flashy and rebellious or some shit I agree somewhat that wearing a rick leather with some boring everyday stuff is kind of a killjoy; honestly it just looks like you blew your wallet on the jacket and had no budget left for the rest of your wardrobe. at least get something interesting to complement it; it doesn't have to be a pair of LUC pants or some a1923 doublezips, anything with an intriguing assortment of textures goes a long way. i wanted to write this earlier on the other page but really, nobody knows who rick owens is save for a couple tumblr kids and fahion industry insiders/enthusiasts. buying and wearing rick for the sake of the brand itself and attempting to attain recognition is akin to pandering to a small niche subset of a minor demographic. isn't that drew from like 2009 or some shit i remember seeing that a while back i think it's pretty mediocre On January 18 2015 00:58 zulu_nation8 wrote: also I know faust gets shit on a lot in other forums and I've just recently began browsing sz, but wtf are these? Are they over my head or do people praise him cuz they don't wanna get banned? dont think anyone outside of that select szg circle thinks faust dresses well, and the people that are outside of that little clique don't say anything or are banned think those two fits would be better if he wore something other than the creepers they look ridiculously out of place in these fits, kinda resemble uggs & jeans rofl funny thing is he's now really into bbs when before he was flaming it for being banal and lacking originality. i really don't mind that his fits are poor relative to the amount of time he spends on philosophical notions related to fashion, but his attitude to contradiction is toxic | ||
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greggy
United Kingdom1483 Posts
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zulu_nation8
China26351 Posts
On the taste of the nouveau riche, yes it's true. I should've been more specific but, when talking with the shopkeeper/managers of the indie boutiques, I basically noticed that they were mostly run-of-the-mill SZ'ers, I think eth0s even stocks the SZ magazine. So I meant sticking out among the enthusiasts, and literally sticking out cuz RO proportions are very aggressive. I would've thought that because they stock stuff that are imo better than current Rick, as in vintage dries, yohji, MA+, elena dawson, etc, that they wouldn't be so caught up in RO still, but eth0s will start to stock mainline RO instead of just drkshdw come this fall, and the one SA at old lyric which only has vintage issey miyake/DVN/Yohji/CDG/Undercover comes to work everyday in full rick from like last season. While over on the forums, the older posters seem jaded of rick fits, and constantly talk about the brand going downhill in quality and design. Also correct me if I'm wrong but there are no other fits where posters just post the seasons, as in "top - gleam/pants - crust/sneakers - vicious." I've never seen that with any other brand, so it would seem Rick occupied a special place on SZ. On faust's fits, so he's a chubby midget, thus I find it weird that those artisan types avoid talking about body shape for the sake of pomo political correctness, while sf has no problem telling a poster that a top isn't flattering or that he needs to work out. Just seems obvious faust does not dress to his body type and keeps forcing shit together that are for ectomorphs. In the first fit, if his legs were longer and the top was smaller then even without changing anything, the proportions would improve instantly, and the uggs wouldn't seem as out of place. I don't think it's scandalous when a brand's aesthetic forces the wearer to lose weight, except for when pressuring teenage girls to do so. Otherwise everyone who's an adult can decide for themselves. It sucks that the standard fashion body type is 6'2" 160 lbs with a 37" chest and people, especially Asians are so obsessed with height, but it doesn't mean people shouldn't dress for their own body types. The censorship on SZ is kind of weird, they could've just introduced a thumb system, which is probably against their ethos but then he wouldn't have to resort to deleting normcore fits and begging people to write over-intellectualized analysis on the generic fits that are kept. I like a little analysis but honestly some of the shit is pretty hilarious. Oh and I kopped this after talking the guy down a a bit, gonna have to sell a few things still. http://www.styleforum.net/t/449870/rick-owens-blistered-lamb-intarsia-high-sz-xl I know the leather probably isn't great and blistered lamb is hard to take care of? It's from FW10 gleam like my older intarsia and I thought the leather was pretty "substantial". The color looks pretty good, otherwise I have nothing to wear my AnnD sneakers with. Thinking of getting grey zamb DNAs and then wear them with Anns that are actually off-white cuz of the suede. Would be sorta opposite the chunky rick sneaker/pants fits but might work out idk. #humanfitvisualizer + Show Spoiler + ![[image loading]](http://cdn.styleforum.net/b/bc/900x900px-LL-bc815193_cbc3c014_IMG_3024.jpeg) ![[image loading]](http://cdn.styleforum.net/e/e4/900x900px-LL-e4547ac0_10700735_876446399041203_2047583970314893124_o.jpeg) ![[image loading]](http://cdn.styleforum.net/e/eb/900x900px-LL-eb9b791d_20141027_151104.jpeg) | ||
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zulu_nation8
China26351 Posts
![[image loading]](http://i61.tinypic.com/fz43f4.jpg) http://stylezeitgeist.com/forums/showpost.php?p=481158&postcount=45645 Is this really that good? They talk a lot about ethos so the guy named Deleuze probably gets points for his name but I immediately take it as pretentious. It's I guess a #normcore fit by their standards. But like, although the top is good, the junya patchwork jacket is sick along with the layering, does the thin striped bottom really match the square shapes of top? That and the pants look a little too thin and magnifies the AnnD problem of not having small enough feet so that her oversized soles look too chunky (imo). I guess I can see the bottom half doing their own thing and contrasting the top half. Having only browsed sf, I like that they're the most versatile forum, but sometimes I wish there were less jeans and gats. SZ is too conservative, and seemingly because of faust. Too scared to look at sufu/hypebeast. But in general, I think a thumb system works in most cases, yes it's reddity and promotes bandwagoning, but reddit doesn't talk about taste, and the thumbs are used for discussion which is infinitely worse. Most often, aesthetic judgments do not and should not require intellectual justification, so a thumb system is perfect, when words are needed, people can still write them. Or else it becomes SZ where one fit gets posted every three pages and people talk endlessly, in constant fear of offending the wrong people, about useless shit. | ||
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Skilledblob
Germany3392 Posts
I dont understand why so many men are wearing those kind of pants that get thinner towards the ankles. all those do is make you look like you got scrawny stick legs | ||
lichter
1001 YEARS KESPAJAIL22272 Posts
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Juliette
United States6003 Posts
Sf is the most static/versatile I think (though I don't go on sz) bc the groupthink leans toward what the people already there wear. In terms of community it's hard to break into. Think of how many people lurk and never post lol. The fits posted get affected bc no one wants to post experimental stuff. But the nice thing is, everyone that does participate evolves Sufu isn't bad. I don't go there much but they lean a different way than sf. More street wear/modern. Younger people I guess I dunno what norm core is supposed to be. I might be normcore. I wear boring shit all the time even though I know more about clothes than most ppl. Also I should've gotten more into online community dynamics and stuff. Communications/commerce type things. O WELL | ||
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zulu_nation8
China26351 Posts
And yea Regis seems like a cool guy but I can't stand his fits, pretty much turned me off of Margiela forever if that's really how the recent MMM stuff is meant to be worn. I just don't understand what the MMM aesthetic is. The last few pages of SZ's wawyt is hilarious, a guy in all black SLP/Dior/Guidi is called "normcore," another who gets praise for posting a nice lamb leather immediately gets shit on after revealing it's Armani. Then Faust defends the reaction by deferring to the "ethos" of the label. For a community built around artisan clothing, experimentation, artistic value, SZ is the most close-minded and conservative forum by far. | ||
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CorsairHero
Canada9491 Posts
On January 19 2015 00:45 lichter wrote: i dont understand any of the fits you've been discussing fyi i never heard of the word normcore until this thread | ||
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lichter
1001 YEARS KESPAJAIL22272 Posts
On January 19 2015 10:34 CorsairHero wrote: i never heard of the word normcore until this thread i've heard of it (four pins lel) but used for totally different fits. usually hipster ironic 90's lame fits. but i don't really browse sf/sufu as much so i dunno. anyway my opinion on this whole matter is that menswear forums really show that they are waaaaay more brand conscious than the average consumer. i don't even think this is debatable and the point is reinforced by zulu's armani anecdote. i feel like half of the fits on waywt are just "hey i own this" brag posts, and they just pile black on black on black, rick on boris on attachment, without really having any sense of how to put together an outfit. i guess it's because of people like that that i've become prejudiced against all black fits, even though i see a lot of fits like that that i actually like. i find it really strange that a forum about fashion and its waywt thread should be so obsessed about brands and some 'imaginary ethos' or mystical rationale that rejects a piece of clothing otherwise acceptable just because of the brand. waywt threads are supposed to highlight the poster's ability to put together a fit, it's not a thread about the brand's entire season or line. so why should one great piece be rejected just because it was part of a bad line or brand? that type of elitism is one of the reasons i don't post on sf/sufu or post fits in general one of my favorite places to look at fits is totokaelo, especially the ladies section. they use a lot of rick or plokhov or annD or vibskov, but they put it together with acne, our legacy, patrik ervell, and even stuff like saturdays surf nyc and won hundred. i'm not sure if zulu would consider that rick+ peasant, but i feel like they show a lot more creativity and refinement than the type of people i criticize above. | ||
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