On January 05 2012 17:14 dib wrote: was gonna get this mouse before i heard of the pixel issue. however, i find it odd that all of StarTale can play with this mouse and not mention a thing about it. maybe they imba?
When a team or clan is sponsored by a mouse company, you have to look twice. Take SteelSeries for example. They sponsor the best Quake player: Rapha. When you look at the SteelSeries homepage, Rapha is listed using a SteelSeries Xai. In reality he uses a Microsoft Wheel Mouse Optical with a SteelSeries sticker on it:
ye it realyl comes to preference, QUAKE FTW!!!!!!, the main reason why steelseries mice suck ass, is due to the fact they have acceleration, and it cannot be removed, so people are really against this, the reason why steelseries mice suck
Ive had the MiCO for a half year now and the scroll have indeed been broken for a long time. Other than that it´s very very small, I would prefer if it was a little bit larger and that is why Im considering getting a Xai instead. But the sensor is great, and the shape gives you full control over the mouse. The key clicks are much stiffer than on a Razer or Logitech mouse.
On February 18 2012 03:15 cellblock wrote: Ive had the MiCO for a half year now and the scroll have indeed been broken for a long time. Other than that it´s very very small, I would prefer if it was a little bit larger and that is why Im considering getting a Xai instead. But the sensor is great, and the shape gives you full control over the mouse. The key clicks are much stiffer than on a Razer or Logitech mouse.
Funny, I wish it was smaller.
The key clicks are indeed very stiff. This actually makes me quite a believer they used a korean starcraft team to help design it -- koreans click really hard. Personally I'd dig something much softer.
Gotta say, i just got mine today, and been trying for about 10 mins now, but i can get it to jump like shown in some of the pain pictures, dont know if it means they fixed the problem, or im just lucky great mouse none the less
I've been using the Zowie Mico for almost a week now and it is an awesome mouse. I was looking for a simple 3 button mouse with high DPI for SC2 and it was perfect for what I was looking for.
I've used the Intellimouse 3.0, Logitech MX518, Deathadder, and Abyssus and the Mico edges out the Abyssus slightly for my favorite.
I tried this mouse, thinking to buy it. But the button are too stiff my middle finger tendons started to hurt after 5 minutes of clicking. Do you get used to it? Or does it get softer in time?
On June 29 2012 20:07 lollyz wrote: I use this mouse since its release. No problem with it. Most likely the best mouse that I had with the mini optical..
I had a Xai before I decided to get the Mico, because the Xai was just to big for my small hands and I have to say the Mico fits my hands just perfect. As you said it reminds me of the good old BW times with the optical mini and that alone is like the greatest compliment you can make for a mouse^^
So you guys don't feel the buttons are a bit too stiff? (I am an Abyssus user by the way, very very easy clicks, may be that's why mico's buttons feel like this)
On June 29 2012 20:27 Kull of Atlantis wrote: So you guys don't feel the buttons are a bit too stiff? (I am an Abyssus user by the way, very very easy clicks, may be that's why mico's buttons feel like this)
You just have to get used to it. They are about as stiff as the buttons on SS Kinzu, not that big of a deal.
Just an update on mico. I hated the stiffness of the clicks. So I modified it. Now it feels just so good. Perfect shape (i was an LMO fanatic). Sensor functions well enough at 800dpi. Clicks feel so good, like logitech mice, like the LMO.
It's really easy to mod it, but take this as a warning, you CAN screw up the spring or the switch if you aren't careful.
Or you can do it the simple way (go to next spoiler)
It's a much more complicated process in the way talked about in the spoiler above, and you can risk burning out the contacts on the switch. You'll have to provide your own switches you prefer to use and resolder them onto the mico.
I used this exact method for my right click switch and it worked out fine though. I desoldered the Omron switch from my old LMO and swapped it with the Huano switch on my mico.
Funny thing is, I messed up the second Omron switch from my LMO in this process, so my left click on my mico was stuck with the Huano switch.
So what I did was, instead of replacing it with a new switch through the whole desolder and resolder process, I just popped open the Huano switch using a needle nose plier (****Becareful doing this or the spring can get damaged. It's extremely brittle and can get deformed and possibly not work) and then slightly bent the spring with a pin so that it took less force to travel when pushing down on it. Now, the clicks are soft and quick in my mico. My right click is probably closer to the LMO in that it is soft but bottoms out a little slower (feels a bit mushy). My left click feels just as soft, but it's a bit more tactile and bottoms out quicker (feels a bit quicker in response). Maybe a bit strange that they don't feel exactly the same, but I happen to like the way it feels right now.
Now that I think of it, I should write a step by step tutorial just in case people want to try it out. I'm pretty sure it'll work for any mouse that uses similar type switches: **I will try to get pictures up if you guys really need them. Let me know.**
**WARNING: I take no responsibility for any injuries or any damages to any of your equipment if you use these instructions to modify your equipment. There is always a risk when attempting to modify your peripherals and electronic equipment.
Pliers (preferably needle-nose pliers or something equivalent, necessary to open the switch (look at spoiler link above to see a picture of how much room you have and how big the switches are). Hell, you could use an eye-brow plucker if you want to.
Phillips screw diver (a small one that will fit into the hole in the mouse casing)
A thin pin (something small and thin, like a thumbtack or something that you can use to adjust the spring inside the switch)
First, unplug your mouse and make sure you're working in a well lit area because you need to see every little detail inside the mouse to make sure you don't screw anything up.
Zowie Mico
1. Flip the mouse so that the bottom is facing you. There is a hole in the bottom with a screw that you must remove before you can get inside the mouse. Use a phillips screw driver. I'm not gonna get technical with sizes, just get one that will fit, it's pretty small.
2. Once the screw is out, you should be able to pull off the top half of the mouse to get inside the mouse and see its guts. Examine the black mouse switches and take note of the thin white "buttons". You don't want to lose them in this process.
3. It's advised that you remove the whole PCB board out of the mouse, but you don't necessary have to. It just makes it easier. Make sure you don't damage the soldered pins on the bottom though. I didn't really take any special precautions, I worked right on my desk. Just be careful moving it around.
4. You should be able to take off the scroll wheel, it's an easy tug to get it off.
5. Grab your pliers or whatever you're deciding to use, it could be anything that could grip onto the top half of the black switch. If you look closely at the switch, there are two clips on each side that hooks the top half onto the bottom half. (Some mice may not have these clips). You should clearly see a seam line though that separates the two halves of the switch. Your goal is to pull this top half off slowly and lightly with a rocking motion so that you don't damage the black casing itself and don't damage the spring inside it. Note: When you pull off this top half of the switch, that small white plastic "button" could fall out and you could lose it. Be aware. Don't lose it.
6. Once the top half of the switch casing is off, you should see a "spring". Not what you would have imagined, a regular spiraly slinky looking spring, but a very thin and small piece of metal. This is what actuates the click and gives the tactile click. Examine the spring and you should find that when you press down on it (and do so lightly and carefully), one end hits a contact point, which sends a signal to the PCB board that you've registered a click. On the other end of the spring, if you press down on an area towards that end, you should feel a tactile click. This area on the spring is where the thin white button contacts, giving you that tactile click each time you press on the mouse button.
**This is the risky part, be extra careful. You don't want to knock the spring off either, it's extremely annoying to rehook it into the grooves and you could damage it in the process**
7. Now, there is a special part on this spring that gives it the "resistance" effect that all springs have. Look for the curved U-shaped part of the spring. That is what controls how much resistance there is when you click. What you want to do is fiddle with this part to lessen the resistance so your clicks are softer. Get your thin little pin that I've mentioned earlier and press down on the U-shape with it. You want to create a deformation in it so instead of it being a smooth U shape, it starts to look more like a V shape. Forgive me if I don't know how else to explain it. When you create this deformation, there is less resistance pushing against the ends of the spring, so when you press down on the tactile area, it requires less force. I advise that you don't overdo it or you'll risk damaging it or you could lose the tactile feedback. A slight deformation is already significant, it doesn't have to be a V at all.
8. Test it by pressing down on the tactile area of the spring with your finger tips. A good setting is where you can feel the tactile click while the pressure is very light, lighter than before with the default pressure.
9. This is where needle nose pliers come in handy. If your thin white button piece did fall out, you have to reinsert it into the socket on the top half of the switch casing. Using something like a needle-nose plier to clip onto the white button piece is the easiest way to do this, because it actually fits into the small housing in the switch casing. Hold the mouse PCB board upside down when you put the top half of the switch casing back on so that the white button piece doesn't keep falling out. It should clip back on.
10. Repeat steps on the other switch. Close it up and test it out. Play around with it and repeat until satisfied. Just remember, don't overdo the mod or you could lose the tactile touch or permanently damage the spring.
And YES! You now got the best mouse everrrrr...
Let me know if you guys need help or get stuck. I'll try to get pictures up if you guys request.
On April 21 2011 13:00 Shew wrote: looks awesome, digging it. I'm curious what it's dimensions are
65mm wide, 40mm high, 120mm long
They actually went over to the Startale house and measured the player's hands and filmed their movements. I don't know, but what's been uniquely measured for the God of War must be good for everyone, so I'm getting one, right along a Celeritas from Caseking
who is case king, but wat interests me the most is, would you be able to show me their filmed movements?
Alright, got my mico for some time now, and i am actually really pleased with the mouse. The scroll wheel may make squeaky noises but its actually not too bad. The clicking is what i love most. Maybe its me but the sound is so nice!!!! I am only using the 400dpi so i cant say much bout the pixel skipping. Overall its a nice mouse and ucan consider getting it ^^
Today I am either going to buy a mico or an razer abyssus. I really want the mico and I'm leaning towards it, but the only negative things I've read about it are the size.
Anyone care to comment on this? Here are 2 pictures of my hand with a Logitech MX518:
On September 07 2012 05:13 xrapture wrote: Today I am either going to buy a mico or an razer abyssus. I really want the mico and I'm leaning towards it, but the only negative things I've read about it are the size.
Anyone care to comment on this? Here are 2 pictures of my hand with a Logitech MX518:
The MX518 is actually one of the biggest mice out there. Both the Abyssus and the MiCO are way, way smaller than a MX518. You cant lay your whole hand around these mice, your palm wont be touching the mouse. The Mico is also about 2 cm shorter than the Abyssus, so yes, it is a rather small mouse. I had them both but personally always had issues regarding the shape of Razer Abyssus. Yes, it looks cool, but the shape is weird and edgy so I could never fully understand how to hold this mouse and never felt comfortable holding it. In comparison, the MiCO's shape felt really natural and comfortable.
EPT![[image loading]](http://i51.tinypic.com/2rd93l3.jpg)
