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@skyR
Thank you for the power supply note! Now that you guys convinced me not to do Crossfire I'll probably just go back to what you said originally since that should be all the power that I'll need.
The H67 thing was from a friend telling me that they weren't optimal for it and that I'd be better off with the P series. I'll stick with the H now, of course.
I'm trying to get one drive as opposed to multiple because I don't want flashbacks to what I'm doing now: dealing with memory across a Win7/OS X partition split. deconduo seems to think they'll be back in stock really soon, so I should be okay. I dunno, maybe it's my e-peen telling me to go for the big one, haha. Getting two smaller ones and making one for media has some merit, though. I currently have a 1 TB external that holds all of my movies, etc.
I'll probably go ahead and get that RAM, then. I've honestly been holding back because I know that buying it means that I'm committed to not only the huge purchase but also the installation (which, yeah, you've told me is easy and I'm just being stupid about it  ).
As for the combo deal, I think I'm committed to wanting to squeeze every last bit out of this build as I can, so I'll probably go for the combo. I will, unfortunately, have that mail-in rebate thing, but it's only $20 so I should be okay waiting. I also just realized that I didn't factor in rebates to the other stuff I have, lol.
Again, I just want to thank you guys so much. You've been truly invaluable. I might pop in one more time with the updated motherboard and such, but I'm feeling like I'm on the right track thanks to you! The combos and other deals have just been the icing on the cake for coming here!
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If you're looking for a 1TB drive (anybody) and with the Spinpoint F3 weren't sold out, you can get the Spinpoint F3R for $70 after promo code. It's pretty much the same, I think, just the enterprise / RAID / 5 year warranty version with better support from Samsung (that you probably don't need):
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822152238
@popdeollie
Are you looking to dual dual (SLI) GTX 580 in the future? If not, you can save on some stuff for sure.
In any case, the Corsair TX850W is old and outdated, so it's worse than other offerings these days. You also don't need anywhere near 850W if sticking with a single GTX 580, even if you overclock a lot. If you were leaving room for SLI, there are better 850W options.
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@Myrmidon
Yes, I am leaving room to add a 580 in the future. I had no idea the TX850W was outdated, as the user reviews are quite good. Thanks for the heads up. What would you recommend instead?
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The XFX Core Edition 650/750/850W have the same guts and performance as the Corsair TX 650/750/850 V2. The TX V2 is a pretty decent upgrade from the old TX.
The XFX at that price is a pretty good deal.
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Okay, I think I have this hammered out:
Wish list: here. (Ignore the Spinpoint; it's there for me to check tomorrow.)
CPU and video card bundle: here.
RAM (it's in the list but this shows you the great deal): here.
Total price for the beast with savings counted: $784.92. (The only mail-in rebate is a $20 one on the video card.)
Unless you guys have something to suggest, I start buying tomorrow!
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Well lucky for you the Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB is bak in stock =p
Your case and power supply also has mail in rebates.
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love how this thread is always updating with good read ups xD
(gold series is the highest range therefore is the safest and energy consumption over the years right? ) if so..
just wondering can u recommend me a good gold series might wanna do sli in the future..
only good gold series i know is the corsair ax series.. any PSU thats newer or more updated than the AX series (not sure if the AX series is outdated)
and for ram i decided on 4gb x 2 total of GB as i will be using my comp for graphic designs
which ripjaws would u be recommending ? as theres so many 4gb x 2 .. not sure which is outdated as well.. t.t
tyty ^^ much apperciate xD
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Corsair AX is the newest offering from Corsair, it hasn't even been a year yet since their release. Other 80+ gold power supplies include Seasonic X (which the Corsair AX series is based off of), Cougar GX, NZXT Hale90, and Enermax 87.
No such thing as outdated DDR3 RAM (well I guess you can consider 1.65v outdated >.>). Just pick any 1.25v - 1.5v kit that visually appeals to you.
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Question: If I have a SSD with SATA II interface (OCZ Vertex 2) and I want to buy another one with SATA III interface (OCZ Vertex 3), can I put them in RAID 0?
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Yes you could but it is best to use two identical drives for a RAID 0 setup.
It is not recommended to run SSDs in a RAID 0 setup as TRIM is not available for RAID.
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if i get 1 ssd 120 gb vertex 3 and a 1tb western digital black carviar.. using 1tb hdd as a storage if i ever run out of gb from the sdd
would my comp be alright? not using raid 0 cause i dun think it will work using a hdd and an sdd..
@forgotten one
TRIM, which purges data from the SSD's cells upon deletion and can prevent the slowdown that many solid state drives experience after prolonged use, is generally considered to be the best thing to have happened to the devices for quite some time
u mean after a few years the ssd will run slower and slower till it dies out ?
BTW Antec high current pro is better than the corsair AX series ?
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platinum is the highest tier but theres like 3 platinum power supplies and they all cost a liver to buy
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5930 Posts
On April 05 2011 18:25 dandan23 wrote:
if i get 1 ssd 120 gb vertex 3 and a 1tb western digital black carviar.. using 1tb hdd as a storage if i ever run out of gb from the sdd
would my comp be alright? not using raid 0 cause i dun think it will work using a hdd and an sdd..
@forgotten one
TRIM, which purges data from the SSD's cells upon deletion and can prevent the slowdown that many solid state drives experience after prolonged use, is generally considered to be the best thing to have happened to the devices for quite some time
u mean after a few years the ssd will run slower and slower till it dies out ?
Modern SSDs that aren't shit (Intel, probably Sandforce drives) take care of themselves. As far as I know, the last generation Intel disks can write 100GB (!) a day for 5 whole years before they are actually unable to write anymore. Note we're talking about write and not read.
The point I'm getting at is that unless you seriously try to thrash the disks (or use them as expensive shockproof backup disks), you can't kill them and even if they start slowing down after a few years, they'll still be miles faster than the best mechanical disk. SSDs can't die like a mechanical disk: while they can't write anymore, they can still read. I figure that's why Apple has been really lax on getting TRIM working on OSX because all typical users do with SSDs is read.
SSDs are there to be used, if you're using OSX you might have reason to worry because you don't have working TRIM. If you're using Windows 7, just turn AHCI on in BIOS and the operating system should adjust the settings for your SSD automatically (i.e never defrag, turn TRIM on, etc).
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I have a SSD. It's possibly the best computer part ever imo...
I'm playing around with my BIOS overclocking my computer to 4 GHz + with 955 Black Edition. I get a random blue screen because it's not as stable as I thought. I'm back to gaming or browsing the internet in like less than 1 minute. Everything is instant.
Never again will I place my operating system on a mechanical drive
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Hey guys,
So after a lot of debating today, I decided that I'm actually going to get the computer pretty soon (within 3 weeks) but I do have some changes that I've made. I'll just reanswer the questions again and hopefully there's something around what I want for the price I'm looking for.
My budget is ~$650.00 usd (excluding shipping)
My resolution is unknown, I'm not a big fan of high quality graphics though, if that means anything =\
I'm using it for SC2 and Diablo3, and their respected expansions. I will also be using it for e-mail and any school-related programs such as microsoft office.
My upgrade cycle is around 18 months-2years . Keep in mind though, that I will be playing SC2 in lowest graphics and I have no problem playing Diablo3 in lowest graphics. I just want the game to run smoothly with no issues over b.net
If I got a computer that I could play on medium-high settings for now, but low settings in the future I'll be happy with that.
I plan on building it within 3 weeks
I do not plan on overclocking it
I do need an OS, but it doesn't have to be from ncix.com (I'm assuming it's easy to install an OS right? Just pop the cd in and follow the steps?)
I don't think i want to add GPU or Crossfire, I don't really want high performance, I just don't want low performance.
I live in Calgary, Alberta and I want to buy the parts from www.ncix.com
I'm also wondering if it will be a lot cheaper to wait til the new processors are out, or if I should buy now?
And I'm also wondering what parts I would have to update in ~2 years.
Thanks guys
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@MiXyass
NCIX has weekly salaes and their current sale ends tomorrow so I'll come up with a build for you tomorrow when their new sale starts. NCIX is a Canadian retailer and all their prices are listed in CAD.
Do you still want them to assemble it for $50 or are you putting it together yourself?
You're going to have to wait until mid-late June for new processors from AMD. Waiting will always result in lower prices but are you going to wait forever and never buy a computer? If you need it now, you should buy now.
If you're just going to be playing SC2 and D3, you won't be needing to upgrade anything in the next 3 years.
And yes installing the operating system takes a few simple steps. You can either buy it for ~$95, get it for free from your university, or download it illegally.
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On April 05 2011 17:17 skyR wrote:
Well lucky for you the Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB is bak in stock =p
Your case and power supply also has mail in rebates.
Haha, perfect! I'll be paying $10 more for the hard drive, then, but considering the rebates that means I'm actually $10 under what I thought! I'll be buying everything tonight! I just double checked the power usage again to be sure, and, with everything running 100% and even all USB ports drawing power, I should only hit 437W.
Thanks for your input, guys! I'll be sure to update when I get everything (and if I have problems building, lol)!
On that note, is there a tutorial anywhere that you guys suggest for a first-time builder? I'm sure I'll be fine, but I want to be as prepared as possible. I'm a very research-minded person when it comes to stuff like this.
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EPT
