Lead Climbing [Help]

StorrZerg

United States13922 Posts

August 18 2009 17:52 GMT

So i've been going to a rock climbing gym every Monday (student night so its only $10.)

All i've been doing so far is Top Rope, but I'd like to learn lead climbing.

They offer classes, but that costs some $$ that I'd rather not spend.

So I was wondering if anyone could give me tips on How to prepare for a test. (The tests are free, and I fail that just means I can come back and try it again)

For the tests climbing portion I have to climb a 5.9 clean no falls (which can be done if I've practiced the route a few times) No back clipping no back stepping no missing clips ect.

Thanks for anyone that can help

PiSan

United States160 Posts

August 18 2009 18:29 GMT

If you're already aware of the additional pitfalls to lead climbing, you probably don't need the class.

However, be aware that once you're on the sharp end, the entire climbing game changes. If the test climb is at or close to your limit, don't expect to be able to do it clean on your first lead. To better prepare for the test, do laps on the route stopping at every bolt. You want to emulate clipping as much as possible so you can figure out the best stance and learn how to do it quickly. All too often, first time leaders pump themselves out fiddling with the clips.

Also, make sure that you are not straddling the rope as you climb. You want both feet to be on one side of the rope, which may require you to stand "underneath" the rope in certain positions. This is to prevent the possibility of flipping over in a larger fall.

Also, do you have a partner that can lead belay you? If you don't have a friend who knows how to belay a leader then there's no reason to rush the test.

StorrZerg

United States13922 Posts

August 18 2009 18:35 GMT

I do have a person that can belay me but he goes off to college in a week. lol

I need to find a new climbing partner

miseiler

United States1389 Posts

August 18 2009 21:11 GMT

So wait, have you actually led at all yet? Or just done top rope?

You'd be suprised how much weight is taken off you from the top rope, and how much dragging one behind you adds to you. You might be able to do those 5.9s now from the top rope, but be prepared to be surprised at how quickly you'll tire.

StorrZerg

United States13922 Posts

August 18 2009 22:30 GMT

On August 19 2009 06:11 miseiler wrote:
So wait, have you actually led at all yet? Or just done top rope?

You'd be suprised how much weight is taken off you from the top rope, and how much dragging one behind you adds to you. You might be able to do those 5.9s now from the top rope, but be prepared to be surprised at how quickly you'll tire.

O im expecting it

and only top rope so far

My friends tried the test 4 times now.. and failed. so i might as well start trying it.

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