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On May 24 2022 21:55 Cyro wrote: Losing a memory channel due to messing up pins or having lopsided mounting pressure happens regularly, but that would take out two slots (like A2 + B2) at the same time. If only one of them is broke then maybe it's mobo.
On May 24 2022 21:55 Cyro wrote: Losing a memory channel due to messing up pins or having lopsided mounting pressure happens regularly, but that would take out two slots (like A2 + B2) at the same time. If only one of them is broke then maybe it's mobo.
I only have 2 slots. Would that matter?
In that case you can't tell without duplicate hardware
Just finished building a PC for a neighbour, it's also fully assembled. He didn't want to spend on a graphics card as of now, so his budget was up to €770. Overall purchase is €629, leaving room for a future GPU if needed. Thanks to Cyro for helping me out as it's my first time doing a budget build, including assembly of a budget one. Link: https://de.pcpartpicker.com/list/Cg2v4s
Price is manually adjusted as per local market (BGN to EUR). Note Crucial P5 Plus (PCI-E 4 NVME) is marked as €89 as it's this NVME + be quiet! MC1 Pro cooler (non-pro wasn't available at Amazon). NVME and heatsink are the only outside local market items. So €75 for NVME and €14 for heatsink.
Gigabyte X V2 (B550) may look like an odd choice to some, but most motherboards at that price were without integrated IO shield and I wanted to use a nicer one for looks. Of course, if it blocks dust that's also great. It just seemed like good value for money to me overall (not just IO shield).
PC case isn't the best but it was on a discount so I'd still say good value for money even if manual was trash (zero mention of ARGB connections). Still, no Phanteks P300 & P360 locally right now (out of stock?) and no Montech X3 (GN's recommendation) locally. So compromise was needed.
On May 26 2022 06:40 SC-Shield wrote: Of course, if it blocks dust that's also great.
Actually the backside is exhaust so dust wont enter in that direction. Leaving backside pretty much open is a good thing. Its bad if you have cats or other animals that likes to fiddle with your hardware.
If you have Alder Lake processor, you may be interested in this:
A few degrees less if you change ILM (Independent Loading Mechanism) with a custom one. That's it if you care to spend roughly €40 for about 6 C less. I do hope Intel redesigns their ILM so you don't have to spend any more money, not to mention extra effort to install a new ILM.
I'm currently on Ryzen 5900x but competition is good, you never know if you switch back to Intel in a few years time :D
On September 11 2021 11:54 MeSaber wrote: Prebuilts arent as price bloated as shopping a discrete videocard. If you can find a good GPU in prebuilt you can go for that. I would post here before buying though to be sure you dont get something completely crazy 😂
If its really a new PC you want and money is an issue you could also save one more month or two and hope GPU prices are slightly lowered or raise your budget. GPU prices really are insane atm.
Dont Germany have something like pricerunner.com but for de?
So these three(4) components are your brain (CPU,Mobo,RAM) and i wouldnt budge on these as they are currently the best of the best for cheap, roughly 260+130+70+40= €500. Thats ~$590
The optional way to go would be 11400F ($150) which can match 5600X but for a lot cheaper, it suffers from a very small L3 cache though, currently it seems like only Sweden have this cheap price so its currently not an option for you.
The reason you want 5600X as your minimum is when you later might buy a better GPU you will be bottlenecked by a worse CPU than if you went with the best option on the market right now. GPU prices will decline at some point and people will upgrade to even better or newer cards, if you then sit with a worse CPU your new GPU wont really help you. GPU performance ramps up pretty quickly through the years and it doesnt take long until CPU bottlenecks in some way (either by max frequency or amount of cores(6 as a minimum today)).
As for main storage you should utilize the M2 slot as it frees up space in your case and is a major speed boost compared to SATA for your OS and installed games/software.
There might be better price/performance but of knowledge this SSD is superb in terms of cache storage AND speed. Google for performance numbers and compare sustained speeds, you should want a drive with sustained speeds for saving large projects.
Solid mesh case which needs an extra fan (move the rear fan to front and add an Arctic P12 to the rear) but after that its a performance winner. There are other mesh cases but not as good and cheap as this one. Check reviews on YT (Gamers Nexus).
With power we dont screw around. Here we go for quality over anything else and very thoroughly tested products.
GPU: ... What you are looking for: at least 6GB VRAM (which is pretty much any card 1660S and up) this has importance for newer games and their HD textures. You want a GPU with two(2) or more fans, two is optimal though and three fans usually have quite a markup for it ($75-150). It doesnt necessary make it that much better either, when it comes to cooling it is all about exchanging hot air for cool air, ie move air through your Case fast and keep your room as cool as possible.
What to skip: any card with one fan, their heatsink is usually too small for the performance of the GPU-unit.
Cards to consider:
1050Ti: ~€200, 4GB VRAM, 75W, double the performance of my own card 750Ti (i would be happy with this 😂) this is not a card for new games but it is at least usable in most games on lower settings in 1080p. Good to use until GPU prices drop.
1660Super: ~€450, 6GB VRAM, 125W, this card should in theory cost ~$200 now so yeah you can see how insane prices are from this. Double performance of 1050Ti, now you start being able to play stuff with somewhat reasonable settings instead of low. You might wanna use low in some FPS games to get 144Hz usable though, check YT per game per card to see performance numbers.
6600XT: ... ~€600, 8GB VRAM, ~160W, an ok card but more expensive than the performance it gives over 1660S. 21% difference is not worth it imo, go for 3060Ti as final card upgrade.
3060: ... ~€600, 12GB VRAM, 170W, this is imo a shit card and totally out of proportions of what is actually needed. You will never use this much VRAM (unless some niche case) and even if you did you will have zero FPS to utilize it properly.
3060Ti: ... ~€700, 8GB VRAM, 200W, 55% faster and 55% more expensive than 1660S. Get this if you want best performance on the market without destroying your wallet (3070Ti, 3080Ti etc...).
Conclusion being: look at used cards and have current insane prices in mind for what is a good deal. Dont buy any crap card. Check its power efficiency; perf/watt (very important to not kill your PSU) and compare performance per dollar. Also compare to what you are currently using if its twice as good or just slightly, maybe you need to wait until newer cards come out before its worth an upgrade. Upgrading for 20% better card is just meh.
Consider if you need 144 FPS (144Hz monitor) or just 60. If 60 its way easier to get away with just a few minor changes in graphics settings on nearly any card.
1440p is mainly for newer cards or RTS:ish games to get reasonable FPS.
€ 1.458,93 , using the PC for say 5 years, roughly € 300 a year. Measily cost for a top notch computah
Edit: This just dropped for some extra info:
I got the excellent above advice close to a year ago. I happened to buy a house which set the computer purchase back... Now that I'm ready to pull the trigger, is this a fine machine that keeps the
ryzen-5-5600 geforce 3060
suggested? To recap, I don't want to spend much over 1kEU, shopping out of Germany, and prefer pre-built.
On July 05 2022 09:12 Cyro wrote: Crap case/PSU named. The motherboard / RAM / SSD / HDD / GraphicsCard are not named but are instead using the cheapest thing that they happen to have.
Not worth buying something like that IMO, it's cheaper to buy it once rather than buy problem parts and replace later.
To enforce that statement: I bought something like that once, with a "750W PSU". All other parts were named and of some quality.
Things ran well for a while, until i decided to upgrade my GPU. At that point, the PC would just randomly turn off. Sometimes immediately, sometimes after half an hour of load. If i tell you those two facts in combination, it is clear that they may be connected. It was not clear to me. I used an online calculator before the upgrade, and my parts were nowhere near the PSU limit, so i expected no problem in that regard.
Well, after months and months of searching for the problem, removing the CPU and reapplying heat paste, removing basically every part of the PC, running memtest a bunch of times, and generally lots of frustrating diagnosis efforts, i finally googled the actual name of my "750W PSU". Turns out that that piece of shit a) Actually had a peak power of 750W. Apparently you could only actually use half of the PSU at once, and the real long-term power it could supply was about 400W. It does not say that anywhere. It was just very shit. And b) a bunch of them actually caught fire.
So i exchanged the PSU and lived happily ever after. But that is just one cheap unnamed part. In your case, everything is cheap unnamed. Do not do this to you. Only buy prebuilt that tells you the names of all of the parts.
On July 05 2022 09:12 Cyro wrote: Crap case/PSU named. The motherboard / RAM / SSD / HDD / GraphicsCard are not named but are instead using the cheapest thing that they happen to have.
Not worth buying something like that IMO, it's cheaper to buy it once rather than buy problem parts and replace later.
To enforce that statement: I bought something like that once, with a "750W PSU". All other parts were named and of some quality.
Things ran well for a while, until i decided to upgrade my GPU. At that point, the PC would just randomly turn off. Sometimes immediately, sometimes after half an hour of load. If i tell you those two facts in combination, it is clear that they may be connected. It was not clear to me. I used an online calculator before the upgrade, and my parts were nowhere near the PSU limit, so i expected no problem in that regard.
Well, after months and months of searching for the problem, removing the CPU and reapplying heat paste, removing basically every part of the PC, running memtest a bunch of times, and generally lots of frustrating diagnosis efforts, i finally googled the actual name of my "750W PSU". Turns out that that piece of shit a) Actually had a peak power of 750W. Apparently you could only actually use half of the PSU at once, and the real long-term power it could supply was about 400W. It does not say that anywhere. It was just very shit. And b) a bunch of them actually caught fire.
So i exchanged the PSU and lived happily ever after. But that is just one cheap unnamed part. In your case, everything is cheap unnamed. Do not do this to you. Only buy prebuilt that tells you the names of all of the parts.
thanks both. I wouldn't have thought of that.
Do you have any suggestions for pre-builts in Germany? Or should I just stop being a lazy POS and learn how to assemble the thing myself? I really hope the answer is the former
EDIT: I just noticed the PC the original poster suggested me has a 150EU assembly option. So I will probably just buy exactly this:
Unless someone here can see a component in there I should swap out. The 3060 TI doesn't seem to be insanely overpriced these days so I think I'll opt for that card.
You are missing a data storage. I would highly recommend getting an SSD.
Regarding pre-built, i sadly have no clue. I will probably get a new PC this summer, and i am still debating pre-built vs building it completely myself. But i tend to only be up to date on my computer hardware and shop knowledge when i buy new stuff.
It might also be worth it to wait a month or two, the crypto crash may lead to graphics cards being affordable again.
The current recommendation is to wait for the new hardware releasing very soon.
Prices are still going down also. And you shouldnt buy used hardware anyway as its been used for mining. Wait for new fresh hardware and let it be reviewed then buy appropriate performance for your needs.
So consensus is prices for old hardware is too expensive atm for the performance they have. New hardware will fix this or be totally irrelevant. Dont buy overpriced (way above msrp) old hardware.
If you want a prebuilt you should definitely wait. Whats selling now is extremely overpriced.
Do note MSRP was significantly raised so even at MSRP its not a good price for 2 years old hardware.
The best priced cards will come from next gen because mining is dead and a high MSRP wont work anymore.
On July 05 2022 09:12 Cyro wrote: Crap case/PSU named. The motherboard / RAM / SSD / HDD / GraphicsCard are not named but are instead using the cheapest thing that they happen to have.
Not worth buying something like that IMO, it's cheaper to buy it once rather than buy problem parts and replace later.
To enforce that statement: I bought something like that once, with a "750W PSU". All other parts were named and of some quality.
Things ran well for a while, until i decided to upgrade my GPU. At that point, the PC would just randomly turn off. Sometimes immediately, sometimes after half an hour of load. If i tell you those two facts in combination, it is clear that they may be connected. It was not clear to me. I used an online calculator before the upgrade, and my parts were nowhere near the PSU limit, so i expected no problem in that regard.
Well, after months and months of searching for the problem, removing the CPU and reapplying heat paste, removing basically every part of the PC, running memtest a bunch of times, and generally lots of frustrating diagnosis efforts, i finally googled the actual name of my "750W PSU". Turns out that that piece of shit a) Actually had a peak power of 750W. Apparently you could only actually use half of the PSU at once, and the real long-term power it could supply was about 400W. It does not say that anywhere. It was just very shit. And b) a bunch of them actually caught fire.
So i exchanged the PSU and lived happily ever after. But that is just one cheap unnamed part. In your case, everything is cheap unnamed. Do not do this to you. Only buy prebuilt that tells you the names of all of the parts.
What if I tell you there is more? GPU transients :D
As I'd recently persuaded a neighbour not to buy a prebuilt and I helped him to assemble a new PC from scratch, I've also noticed that prebuilts locally cut budget on these commonly: - motherboard (e.g. A520 chipset for a Ryzen 5600x/5900x which is laughable) - power supply unit - PC case (DeepCool seems to be a common one) or RTX 3060 + RGB and everything else is unnamed/unspecified. So as long as it looks cool from outside and it's on "gaming level" they count on PC uneducated people to go for it.
On July 07 2022 22:22 cazzsquatch wrote: Ok. I will wait a few months and check back in on this forum again. Thanks for the tips everyone. What's a few more months after 20 years of waiting
If I were you, I'd carefully follow reviews of RTX 4000 cards when they're out. For some reason I have a bad feeling about their power draw. Since it's new architecture, it's better to be cautious. RTX 3000 was messed up in my opinion because you pay 1000+ euros for a card only to end up with coil whine which is completely unacceptable for that amount of money. Even if Cyro doesn't have coil whine with his, quality assurance nowadays with ever more power hungry GPUs give me a headache.
I was much more pleasantly surprised with old MSI GTX 980 Twin Frozr card back in the days... Even if ASUS ROG Strix 3080 now does a lot more for me, ray tracing and all the cool stuff.
I'm getting 'burned out' by PC market's vibes. It's definitely not going in the right direction. i9-12900K - 240 W RTX 4080 - 400 W allegedly (or more?) RTX 4090 - 450 W (at least but more is expected) + GPU transients
Power efficiency feels like it went out of the window. I do like that AMD is sane, but I hope they don't join this madness as well for "top performance at any cost".